AnthonyL

I got four from 44mag.com, however it looks like they are out of stock. I would start signing up for "notify when in stock" e-mails from everywhere you can find. http://www.44mag.com/product/m_p_9/smith_and_wesson

The RCBS instructions suck, the Hornady die instructions do a much better job of explaining how to setup the bullet seater/crimp die. 1. First raise the ramp all the way up with shellholder installed 2. Screw in the bullet seater die in the press until it touches the shellholder 3. Now back off the die two full turns and tighten the lock ring (hint, this step removes the crimp ability from the die) 4. Adjust the bullet seater plunge until you reach the desired COAL Note at this point no crimp has been performed, just seating the bullet to the desired COAL 5. Set aside the loaded round you used to adjust the bullet seater die 6. Back off the bullet seater plunge several turns 7. Back off the bullet seater die in the press a couple turns 8. Place the loaded round in the shellholder and raise the ram completely 9. Screw in the bullet seater die in the press until you feel the die touch the case 10. Lower the ram, and screw in the die 1/8 turn and lock the ring 11. Now raise the ram and crimp the round 12. With the ram still in the complete up position screw in the bullet seater plunger until it touches the bullet Your bullet seat and crimp are now set properly. Check crimp amount with calipers and increase 1/8 at a time as needed. Note, each time you adjust the crimp you have to run up and down the bullet plunger.

Simple, buy a Glockworx reducing ring and you can run Gen3 rods/springs in a Gen4. http://www.glockworx.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=156838&CAT=3694

Same here, JP Magwell on a G34 and G35.

Good reason why you should use minimum load data. For plinking 100 yards or less there is no need for anything other than min load. Also that means worries about pressure are much less as well as variances in cases due to mixed brass.

For plinking? Mixed brass all day long, it's all I shoot. Precision shooting for accuracy, different story.

I have a Gen3 G35 with a Jager full length steel uncaptured guide rod and Wolff 14lb recoil spring. I'm super happy with this setup in combination with minor .40 loads the recoil is very low.

Best book is no book. Honestly the book is great as a point reference, but loading is something that is hard to describe in writing. The way I learned, and the way I think everyone should start out is find a friend, buddy, neighbor, whomever that is experienced in loading and teach you hands on.

I was just thinking about this since I have several empty 1lb retumbo cans laying around from the .338 LM loading (1lb does not last long). I'm thinking about using the to bring home my spent .40 S&W range brass. Using a bag leaves the chance you could smash them, in a hard plastic bottle would protect them better in transit.

I'm going to vote for a regular full length resize die (w/o bushings). As someone else already pointed out you are going to need to FL resize every 3-4 firings anyways because otherwise it's going to be increasing difficult to drop the bolt. In the mean time between FL sizings, simply back the die out 1-2 turns so it will not touch the shoulder. This will size the neck only. I also highly recommend you purchase a case comparator tool. Hornady makes a nice set that uses your dial calipers. This is the exact procedure I use for my .338 Lapua Magnum rounds and they are VERY accurate and the brass lasts several reloadings. P.S. Also make sure you understand how the bushing dies work and what you need. Once you get into it, I think you will find it's way more than you are ready for...

My first and only pistol reloading has been .40 S&W. I don't think it's overly tricky or sensitive. Yes I had to buy a EGW undersize die to remove the "Glock bulge" in the brass. There are several other solutions like the Redding GRX die. The little competitive shooting I do does not require a chrono test, so I really don't pay attention to that. I strive for a load that gives me low recoil, fairly accurate at 25 yards and less, and is economical. Here is my favorite load to date. 3.5g Hodgdon Titegroup CCI Small Pistol Primer Berry's 180g FP-DS 1.130" COAL Really enjoy shooting these and they cycle my G35 perfectly. I do have a Wolff 14lb recoil spring and did not test the load with the stock spring.

The Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital is made in the US.

Per the case specs the max COAL for .40 S&W is 1.135". I've been researching minor .40 loads for myself and found most people minor load to 1.130" or 1.135" COAL. What I do know is the depth of the bullet directly affects case pressure, kinda of the same result of increasing powder charge. So in that retrospect I thought they were loading long to decrease case pressure and keep the recoil soft as possible. I recently tried 1.135 COAL in my Glock 35 and had one round not want to chamber without some force. Not sure it was a single round issue or the COAL, will have to do some more testing. I did like the recoil of the COAL and minor load.

I have the exact same Jager rod and Wolff spring in my Glock 35. It shoots perfectly fine and very accurate. I wouldn't worry about, shoot and enjoy!

FYI, if you don't find one on that side of the mountains and in the seattle area there are several indoor ranges with G34's for rent.

As everyone else stated, don't worry about it. Those 45 bullets are not made to exact tolerances and there will be some variation in COAL due to this.

I use the Blade-Tech Revolution Glock 34/35 molded holster for my G35 and perfectly happy with it. http://www.blade-tech.com/2-pc-attachment-Revolution-Glock-34-35-pr-1284.html

The Glock 24 was replaced by the Glock 35 because the 24 didn't fit inside the box for competition. That's why you have a hard time finding 24's because they are no longer produced. Likewise the Glock 17L is very low production and also hard to find. I saw a new one recently in a local WA gun store but it's gone now. I own a Glock 35 for competition and very impressed. The stock trigger from the factory is greatly improved over the standard Glock. Of course there is still room to improve with some aftermarket goodies which I've already done.

You could buy an AR armorer's tool for $40-60 or most gun shops sell a buffer tube tool which also has a birdcage wrench built-in. I have one made by Tapco, they are very common and only cost $7-8. Nothing else is needed for the install. Do not locktite the new muzzle brake.

I load Berry's 155g RNHB and 180g FP bullets for my Glock 35 all the time. So far I've only used Bullseye powder and follow the Speer loading manual data that came with my Rock Chucker. I used 4.9g for the 180g and 5.4g for the 155 per the manual with great results.

Ditto. I don't see the downside to good amount of case lube as long as you regularly clean your dies. I use Hornady One-Shot between large batches to keeps the dies clean and lubed themselves as well.

So far Bullseye is the only pistol powder I have used. I'm loading .40 S&W for my Glock 35 and I have not noticed any more smoke or build-up in the gun compared to factory ammo I've tried. My next can of powder is Titegroup, so I guess I will see if there is any difference soon enough. I will strip the gun and clean before changing powders to see if there is any difference.

I tumble the finished live rounds for 30 mins after loading is complete to remove any case lube, grease, etc from the process. It also puts a nice final shine on them. Never had an issue, and neither have my friends.

After personally starting out loading with a single stage I highly recommend it. First it's going to slow down the process, in separate steps, which is going to give you more time to learn. Yes a single stage is slow, however it's not horrible. I put out about 100 rounds an hour on the Rock Chucker taking my time. If you are only shooting 400 rounds a month you can easily load that many in two evenings after work spending a couple hours in the garage. There are other advantages to buying a single stage. If you ever get into precision rifle shooting it's a must, you don't load those rounds on a progressive. Also a single stage can be handy for small individual steps like primer swagger on military brass. In other words, buying a single stage now and upgrading to a progressive later will not be money wasted.

Same as everyone else, two separate operations, seat first then crimp. BTW, I'm really impressed with the Lee Factory Crimp Dies. Inexpensive and work extremely well on both rifle and pistol. I use them in conjunction with my Hornady die sets.