TrevorF Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 Howdy Folks, Is there a difference between .38 Super and .38 Super +P brass? I have some of both mixed in. Can I use the same amount of powder in both cases when trying to make 160 PF for major in IPSC? Or, should I just put the regular .38 super brass aside? Thanks, Trevor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38supPat Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 Sounds like you have range brass there, sort it by manufacturer and throw out any where the headstamp is hard to read, you can get by with this stuff for now but look at ordering yourself some new brass. I'd avoid anything marked with just .38 Super on it and stick to the +p if possible...more because almost all .38 Super made these days is marked +p and I'm betting the .38 super is pretty old. And if you see any marked .38 auto just toss it in the trash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 You can get regular super brass, but its just not up to repeated firing. Load it once and let it go. The +P on the other hand load it till is splits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al503 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 You can get regular super brass, but its just not up to repeated firing. Load it once and let it go. The +P on the other hand load it till is splits. This is incorrect. What are you basing this on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Service Desk Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Howdy Folks, Is there a difference between .38 Super and .38 Super +P brass? I have some of both mixed in. Can I use the same amount of powder in both cases when trying to make 160 PF for major in IPSC? Or, should I just put the regular .38 super brass aside? Thanks, Trevor Yup... there is a difference, the +P stuff is designed to take more pressure, that is why it's designated +P. The other stuff will work OK with a supported barrel but just doesn't last as long with an unsupported one. The +P stuff may have slightly LESS case volume so it may get a few feet per second more for a given load - at the expense of a tad more pressure. I would sort them out and use the standard brass for steel loads where it won't matter a hoot. I am sure others will be along shortly.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin garcia Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Sounds like you have range brass there, sort it by manufacturer and throw out any where the headstamp is hard to read, you can get by with this stuff for now but look at ordering yourself some new brass. I'd avoid anything marked with just .38 Super on it and stick to the +p if possible...more because almost all .38 Super made these days is marked +p and I'm betting the .38 super is pretty old. And if you see any marked .38 auto just toss it in the trash. Please send all .38 super brass to my home address. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 When I was shooting 38 Super, I had some nickel-plated brass where almost all plating was gone and half the lettering on the base was not possible to see, yet it still worked. I never saw any difference between cases marked +P and those with no such marking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 You can get regular super brass, but its just not up to repeated firing. Load it once and let it go. The +P on the other hand load it till is splits. I have 38 Super brass thats been reloaded so many times you can't read the head stamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrevorF Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Given that most loads are pushing rifle pressures, though, you'd probably want to use +P brass.... Unless maybe you're running N105 or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 You can get regular super brass, but its just not up to repeated firing. Load it once and let it go. The +P on the other hand load it till is splits. This is incorrect. What are you basing this on? The basis of the post is relative expierence from 3 Shooters I trade brass with. I only shoot TJ or SC in my 38SC guns. But I collect all the 38 Super brass and trade it to other shooters for SC&TJ. I came across a stock pile of I think Remington and PMC plain 38 Super, they loaded it up shot it once ok then when they tried it a 2 or 3rd time it was buldged and split, I ran it thru the CasePro then they shot it once and had the same problem. Starline 38S is good stuff. My guns will shoot 38S but my Dillon won't eat it, I use the 223 shell plate for SC. They were of loading fairly hot with 3N38, AA#7 and 3N37 if I recall correctly. YMMV but for the cost difference get good brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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