It's true: Case Prep sucks

[cworks]

On straight wall cases you just bell the case mouth out. If using boat tail projectiles whats the point if the case mouth is belled out? Also if you chamfer does that not take away from the integrity of the case mouth itself? Making the life of the brass shorter?

[DinosaurMikeGolf]

On straight wall cases you just bell the case mouth out. If using boat tail projectiles whats the point if the case mouth is belled out? Also if you chamfer does that not take away from the integrity of the case mouth itself? Making the life of the brass shorter?

You chamfer bottle neck shot rifle cases, not flare or bell them. The necks stretch when fired and that is why we trim, chamfer, then deburr bottle necked rifle cases. Very little metal is removed when chamferring and the neck will usually stretch enough during firing that most of the chamferred mouth will be removed.

And firing evenutally reduces case life.

Some guys go as far as annealing their cases after the shooting event.

Edited September 24, 2011 by DinosaurMikeGolf

[cworks]

On straight wall cases you just bell the case mouth out. If using boat tail projectiles whats the point if the case mouth is belled out? Also if you chamfer does that not take away from the integrity of the case mouth itself? Making the life of the brass shorter?

You chamfer bottle neck shot rifle cases, not flare or bell them. The necks stretch when fired and that is why we trim, chamfer, then deburr bottle necked rifle cases. Very little metal is removed when chamferring and the neck will usually stretch enough during firing that most of the chamferred mouth will be removed.

And firing evenutally reduces case life.

So guys go as far as annealing their cases after the shooting event.

So if I was to do it the "correct" way. The fastest way would probably be the Giraud then.

[Chills1994]

Chances are you already have a motor that will make a really good trimmer.... It's called a corded drill. You're a man, right? You gotta drill, right?

Buy the possum hollow cutter and tool holder.

Chuck that in your drill.

Insert already sized cases into the possum hollow cutter/trimmer like how you would stick a pencil in an electric pencil sharpener. go to YouTube and do a search for "wolverineatwork". Watch his two videos.

Get the RCBS X sizer die, trim once to 20 thou under. Get your brass back and never trim again.

The dillon 1200 trimmer set up on a case feeder equipped press is the ticket.

Go to YouTube and do a search for dillon 1200 trimmer. T

You can absolutely fly

[DinosaurMikeGolf]

On straight wall cases you just bell the case mouth out. If using boat tail projectiles whats the point if the case mouth is belled out? Also if you chamfer does that not take away from the integrity of the case mouth itself? Making the life of the brass shorter?

You chamfer bottle neck shot rifle cases, not flare or bell them. The necks stretch when fired and that is why we trim, chamfer, then deburr bottle necked rifle cases. Very little metal is removed when chamferring and the neck will usually stretch enough during firing that most of the chamferred mouth will be removed.

And firing evenutally reduces case life.

So guys go as far as annealing their cases after the shooting event.

So if I was to do it the "correct" way. The fastest way would probably be the Giraud then.

I don't understand what you mean by the "correct" way. The fastest was is probably pick up range brass, decap, re-prime, load, and put them in your rifle, but you risk damaging the rifle due to the range brass not being sized to the chamber of your rifle.

A recommended way is to find someone local to you and talk to them about how they reload rifle ammo and ask to watch them reload some.

[cworks]

Chances are you already have a motor that will make a really good trimmer.... It's called a corded drill. You're a man, right? You gotta drill, right?

Buy the possum hollow cutter and tool holder.

Chuck that in your drill.

Insert already sized cases into the possum hollow cutter/trimmer like how you would stick a pencil in an electric pencil sharpener. go to YouTube and do a search for "wolverineatwork". Watch his two videos.

Get the RCBS X sizer die, trim once to 20 thou under. Get your brass back and never trim again.

The dillon 1200 trimmer set up on a case feeder equipped press is the ticket.

Go to YouTube and do a search for dillon 1200 trimmer. T

You can absolutely fly

I have saw the Possum Hollow and think its pretty simple design. But im lazy and want to touch brass as little as possible. But it seems like 2 are 2 different styles. Those that us an actual too to deburr and chamfer and those that just use media to deburr and do not chamfer at all. I think i might start a new thread.

[DinosaurMikeGolf]

Chances are you already have a motor that will make a really good trimmer.... It's called a corded drill. You're a man, right? You gotta drill, right?

Buy the possum hollow cutter and tool holder.

Chuck that in your drill.

Insert already sized cases into the possum hollow cutter/trimmer like how you would stick a pencil in an electric pencil sharpener. go to YouTube and do a search for "wolverineatwork". Watch his two videos.

Get the RCBS X sizer die, trim once to 20 thou under. Get your brass back and never trim again.

The dillon 1200 trimmer set up on a case feeder equipped press is the ticket.

Go to YouTube and do a search for dillon 1200 trimmer. T

You can absolutely fly

I have saw the Possum Hollow and think its pretty simple design. But im lazy and want to touch brass as little as possible. But it seems like 2 are 2 different styles. Those that us an actual too to deburr and chamfer and those that just use media to deburr and do not chamfer at all. I think i might start a new thread.

Then consider buying new brass. No chamfer or deburring needed.

Edited September 24, 2011 by DinosaurMikeGolf

[outerlimits]

Buy trimmed brass from scharch, load rounds, shoot them, repeat as necessary.

[Colodrew]

Accuracy is .5 - .75moa with both calibers, so I would guess that deburring/chamfering isn't really needed, unless you want to take the extra time with no real benefit.

I might be wrong but belling the case mouth should be good enough? Right?

Yep, I put an ever-so-slight bell in the case before seating, but not for avoiding deburring.

when using boat tail bullets the bell is not really needed but I do it anyway. This is using the Dillon trimmer. the Dillon trimmer goes really fast so it doesn't leave much burr if at all, and if there is any left it will be removed in the tumbling between case prep and loading. the bell is removed by the crimper.

so the process I do is;

get a bucket full of brass and tumble it.

sort it, taking out any head stamps I don't want and look for damaged cases, etc.

Lube and dump in the case feeder, 1050 case prep head has;

1. Dillon carbide full length sizer/decapper

2. swager (belling function removed by turning the top part down in a lathe)

3. empty

4. body die (sharpens the radius between the neck and the shoulder, helps with tight chambers)

5. trimmer

6-7 empty

result is processed brass, tumble it again to remove lube, etc.

1050 loading head;

1. universal decapper (removes tumbling media from flash hole)

2. swager (doesn't hurt to do it again, and it bells the case)

3. primer

4. powder

5. powder checker (optional)

6. bullet seater

7. crimp (removes bell)

again the beauty of this is it is super fast, and when going thru thousands of rounds a year iit is kinda nice to shorten your reloading time and increase your shootin time!

jj

JJ,

What body die are you using? I just set my 1050 up and some of the brass won't case gauge? I have never had this problem on my 550 or single stage press.

Drew

[RiggerJJ]

PM answered...

I think your problem is the sizing die isn't set down far enough...

call me Drew. See pm...

jj