cardiackid Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Does anyone have, or would anyone be willing to take, a photo of a case pre and post-trim from a Dillon 1200? I know the specs say that it the trimmer operates at such a high RPM that it doesn't leave any burrs, nor does it need any chamfering from boattail bullets, but I would love to see a photo prior to pulling the trigger on purchasing one. The only photos/videos I can find online on youtube, etc. are of people operating the trimmer which really don't offer any information other than "gee, look at how fast my 1200 works." Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Does anyone have, or would anyone be willing to take, a photo of a case pre and post-trim from a Dillon 1200? I know the specs say that it the trimmer operates at such a high RPM that it doesn't leave any burrs, nor does it need any chamfering from boattail bullets, but I would love to see a photo prior to pulling the trigger on purchasing one. The only photos/videos I can find online on youtube, etc. are of people operating the trimmer which really don't offer any information other than "gee, look at how fast my 1200 works." Thanks. No pics, but I can attest that the RT1200 cuts clean. I size and trim 500 cases at a time in about 30 minutes, Tumble in 50/50 corncob and walnut for another 30 minutes, then load Horandy 55g FMJBT w/c. No chamfer, no deburr, no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardiackid Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 I guess I am just jaded after watching my RCBS Trim Pro "peel" away at the case mouths leaving that nasty, thick burr on the edges and wanted to see a photo of the Dillon. Everyone keeps saying to just buy it and that I won't regret it. I have full faith in Dillon's products and the recommendations from their users on this site is always spot on. Now I just need to find more stuff to sell to pay for the 1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 its not nasty and its not clean enough for me . my long range bullets get the a quick turn with the inside - outside chamfer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number99 Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 I have no trouble seating FMJ boat tails but thin skinned varmint bullets need a little chamfer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 I could take one, but I don't think it would do you any good even in "super" macro mode. The burr just isn't that big. If you don't ram the case into the cutter and give it about a 1/2 to 3/4 quarter second dwell time at full stroke, a walnut tumble is all that's needed. I go ahead and full length size them again when loading. I just don't bump the shoulder anymore, but I still get inside neck expansion and the decapping pin pushes out the inevitable walnut kernal from the flash hole, so it's all good. I know what you feel by being skeptical, I was using a Possum Hollow in a Dewalt drill running wide open at 2500RPM. It worked good but it left a knarly burr. The Dillon "don't do dat". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ERIC Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 I had to dust off the macro lens for this one. The pictures are of the same piece of 223 brass I randomly picked from my stash of prepped brass. It was processed on a 650 with a Dillon sizing die in station 1 and a RT1200 on station 4. Then it was tumbled in 20/40 corn cob to remove the lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardiackid Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Wow - you guys weren't kidding about a clean cut. I'm beyond sold. Thanks again for your help Eric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 It does cut very cleanly, the only thing I get is sometimes what looks like a tiny brass spring inside the case. I don't tumble tham afterwards but I do run them through the super swage and I wipe the lube off by hand. I don't think I have loaded any with springs inside but it is possible... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Wow - you guys weren't kidding about a clean cut. I'm beyond sold. Thanks again for your help Eric. Once you get it set-up and start using it. You will soon forget about the initial cost and find it's well worth the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number99 Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Hey I almost forgot. I found it works much better to FULLY size the case before running thru the trim die. Lock the trim die down where its just holding the case and then adjust motor for the right length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 Hey I almost forgot. I found it works much better to FULLY size the case before running thru the trim die. Lock the trim die down where its just holding the case and then adjust motor for the right length. A couplle guys at Dillon told me that that is their preferred method. Full length size in station 1, then trim in Station 3. Tumble, then a Universal De-capping Die in Station of the loading Toolhead to make sure the flash holes are clean. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h2osport Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Hey I almost forgot. I found it works much better to FULLY size the case before running thru the trim die. Lock the trim die down where its just holding the case and then adjust motor for the right length. A couplle guys at Dillon told me that that is their preferred method. Full length size in station 1, then trim in Station 3. Tumble, then a Universal De-capping Die in Station of the loading Toolhead to make sure the flash holes are clean. be This is the way I do it. Works well for me. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Hey I almost forgot. I found it works much better to FULLY size the case before running thru the trim die. Lock the trim die down where its just holding the case and then adjust motor for the right length. A couple guys at Dillon told me that that is their preferred method. Full length size in station 1, then trim in Station 3. Tumble, then a Universal De-capping Die in Station of the loading Tool head to make sure the flash holes are clean. be I just saw a post that a guy was asking about a "how to book" on reloading. Well I have several and I am just this month learned some new and important tricks. so I hope all of us are still learning. A few months back I got the 1050 set up with the 1200 trimer and I now have my very best brass prep. the 1050 will only let you fit the 1200 in last few stations. The set-up that worked great for me is a decap die in #1 thin the swag station on past the blank prime station and over to #4 that would normally be the powder station for a full length size with the decap pin removed the next station is empty and thin the trimmer. I did have a third size die in the last station with it backed out so the expander with the decap pin removed , = just to take the sharp edge off the inside after the trimer. Edited June 7, 2011 by AlamoShooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad River Arms Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Hey I almost forgot. I found it works much better to FULLY size the case before running thru the trim die. Lock the trim die down where its just holding the case and then adjust motor for the right length. This is the way I intend to set up the brass prep tool head on my 650. I'm still waiting for the new tool head to arrive so having not set the trimmer up before I'm curious how did you go about adjusting the trimmer die so that it does this? Is it just a matter of backing the die off the shell plate an extra turn or 2? I can't see going much further or the cutter will bottom out on the die. -MRA Edited June 8, 2011 by Mad River Arms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number99 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Two ways. The way I have it now is put the die in the tool head and snug it down. Then put the trimmer on and screw it all the way down till the cutter just touches the die, back it out a half turn or so and lock it in place. You could use some kind if shim or feeler gauge if you wanted to verify your clearance. Then undo the die and run a case up in it and set your length. The way I'll try it next time would be to run the die down on a case. Lock it down with just barely any pressure on it then set the length with the motor. Second way seems simpler but I'm trying to remember why I didn't do that last time and I have no idea! I had a heck of a time for awhile. Lock the die and the motor would come loose. Lock the motor and the die would pop loose. Use two wrenches and go easy on the lock nuts. Not many threads to hold them. I hope at least some of that made sense. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 the trim die is also a full length sizer so don't forget to lube the case even when setting up the die, so you don't get the case stuck...like I did... jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now