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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

right tools for revo


Patrick1981

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Would like to order the tool to loosen extractor rod.

The other two, as they benefit ? because I've seen that cost enough to use them then maybe once time . .

thanks

- extractor rod tool

- yoke, crane reamer

- alignment tool ( also good to make squeeze with crane stretcher, to correct the endshake )

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It's good to have the alignment tool, crane misalignment is fairly common. I would pass on the reamer and suggest using the Power Custom bearings to correct endshake. It is much easier and more predictable than crane stretching.

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I use the crane stretcher. The shims are thin and soon start to wear out, which leaves little scraps of metal floating around in the hole. Stretching the crane makes one solid piece of metal that lasts a lot longer. I would get the reamer and there is a facing tool with a handle just like the reamer and a pilot that goes inside the crane. Most cranes are crooked on the end. After stretching, you use the facing tool to square up the end and bring it to the correct length. Once you do it a couple of times you find out it's faster and easier than shims anyway. You don't have to take the cylinder apart if you stretch the crane. Endshake is a maintainence item if you shoot much. You have to do it occasionally like a tune up on a car. Maybe every 25,000 rounds.

Edited by Toolguy
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The extractor rod tool also comes in a set that includes a piece that supports the cylinder. It's two brass inserts of various calibers that go into the chambers. I would spring for the whole set.

Also different sets for S&W and Ruger.

Remember also it's a left hand thread!!

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I'm a big believer in the Power endshake bearings, and have used them in my own guns for 20+ years. Properly installed and lubricated, they last pretty much indefinitely. The only times I've ever seen them get torn up is when people attempt to use them to reduce endshake down to absolute zero--which is not at all what you want anwyay. The surface of the bearing is harder and smoother than the end of the yoke barrel or the interior surface in the cylinder--in fact, simply installing a bearing will often make the cylinder spin noticeably more easily and freely.

The only downside I see to the Power shims is that they require the extractor assembly to be taken apart, which is not something most revolver owners should be doing due to the risk of damage.

The reamer is very useful for truing the end of the yoke barrel. The extractor removal tool is unnecessary--a simple smooth-jawed hand drill chuck is much cheaper, faster, and easier to use.

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I just got back from work and I see so much pleasure with your answers !

well, feeler gauges've got already, the custom power bearings I ordered and should arrive within a few days.

Carmoney great idea..

If I understand it you say to use what we in Italy call "mandrino" ? see photo

and..if I order the crane alignment tools, how I correct the crane?

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Use a 10" (250mm) steel bar with a hole in the end just big enough for an easy slip fit over the crane where the cylinder rides. Use the alignment tool to see which way you need to go, then slide the bar onto the crane and gently bend in that direction. It's a try and see type of thing, go easy and check after each twink. A twink is a tweak with a think.

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I just got back from work and I see so much pleasure with your answers !

well, feeler gauges've got already, the custom power bearings I ordered and should arrive within a few days.

Carmoney great idea..

If I understand it you say to use what we in Italy call "mandrino" ? see photo

and..if I order the crane alignment tools, how I correct the crane?

Yes--mandrino! :D Make sure it has smooth (not serrated) jaws, and tighten it down firmly so the extractor rod does not slip.

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