Primer

[steel3924]

I have just started to load 9mm and 40 s & w for USPSA & IPSC competition.

Could someone please explain how and when to use small rifle primer or magnum primers in order to meet the pf factor.

I have a cronograph, but I really don't want my powder compressed in the shells. It just seems easier to use the rifle primer to meet the pf in lieu of adding powder. I have been using trying to step up the loads gradually, but it seems like there is an awful lot of powder in the casings to meet the 9mm pf.

I have read all of the books on loading but nothing gives me the information on these primers.

Is there a website that could give me this loading data?

Thanks

[dsmw5142]

First of all,

what division are you shooting in?

What components: brass, primers, bullets, powder (type and how charge weight), are you using?

What power factor do you need or are you trying to meet?

There are alot of different powders. Some may fill a case more or less, but get the same pressure and/or velocity depending on the charge weight, burn rate and composition of the powder granules.

As far as using a particular primer to "push" a load to major, you'd likely be better or at least equally served bumping your powder charge a bit (using published data from a good reloading manual as a guide) and using a standard primer.

I have used many different types and styles of primer. In most cases, a magnum primer vs. standard for instance, only changed average velocity by a very small amount which could have been accomplished by bumping the powder charge .1 grains. I prefer to use the standard primers with a softer cup for more reliable ignition in MY guns. Some people like small rifle primers in THEIR limited or open guns.

However you increase it, pressure is pressure and a fast spike in pressure can lead to a KABOOM. Be sure if you do decide to switch out and use magnum or small rifle primers (which are normally a tad hotter) than decrease your normal load by 10% and work up with your chronograph watching the brass for pressure signs.

I know you say you don't want a compressed 9mm load but it's not always neccessarily a bad thing with the proper powder and knowledge base. If that's where you want to go, perhaps someone else can help more than I can since I don't load 9 major. I do know there is not much in the way of published data for it though. If you're not an experienced loader, you might wish to stick with published loads for a while.

Since this is in the beginners section, I assume you're new to reloading? Make sure you buy as many reloading manuals as you can afford as well as "The ABC's of Reloading" and read them all, cover-to-cover.

[Sarge]

Sorry man, not enough info. For 9 minor loads there are lots of powders that make minor PF.

What powder?

What Bullet?

[steel3924]

Sorry about that, I told you guys I was knew.

I converted my Model 34 glock into an open pistol. KKM Barrel Comp with 6 ports.

Bullet: Montana Gold 124gr JHP

Powder: Longshot

Primers: Remington

Brass: Mixed

I also have an STI Eagle 6" 40cal.

Bullet: Montana Gold 180 JHP

Powder: Longshot

Primers; Remington

Brass: Mixed

I don't have any problems loading minor, I am using Clays and Universal powders for that. What I am concerned about is, when I load the Longshot powder I need 7.6 grains to bring the 9mm up to major. When I do that I have powder almost up to the rim. So I thought that if I decreased the powder and used either a rifle primer or magnum primer it would give me the major pf I need for Open Class. Almost the same for the 40cal.

I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. I have Sierra Bullet reloading manual and the Lyman reloading manual and they don't explain about the rifle primers being used in a pistol.

Thanks

[Poppa Bear]

One thing you need to be aware of when it comes to powder is DENSITY. A powder with low density uses up more space than one with a high density. Two examples are Ramshot True Blue and WST (Winchester Super Target) True Blue has a density of 935, WST has a density of around 500. Translation is that it takes almost twice the volume of WST to equal the charge weight of True Blue.

Try looking up the Lee Volume chart Lee Volume and see what powders you want try out. The lower the number on that chart the more you can fit into a case. If you find a good powder with a high weight density / low Volume density you will be able to make major without having to compress the load.

Just to be clear the higher the number on the Lee chart the more space it takes up in the case.

[Pat Miles]

Could someone please explain how and when to use small rifle primer or magnum primers in order to meet the pf factor.

Don't rely on the primer, small rifle or magnum, to help you make power factor in either your 9mm or 40.. The bump in velocity will be too small to keep your power factor up. As far as major with your Glock, welcome to the world of 9mm major. You will have to do some research into different powders that will make major in 9mm with a 124 boolit.

The 40 should be a cake walk making major, maybe not with the powder you are using, I'm not familiar with it, but with many other powders available. Do some research.

Pat

[steel3924]

THANKS, for clearing things up. I didn't know you had to be a rocket scientist to reload. But, with the help of you guys and this forum, just maybe I will become one.

thanks again.

[Jman]

HS-6 is THE go to powder for the short loaded major 9 Glock imo. I use a 1.155 to 1.158 COAL in my Open (division) G17.

Good for you on the chronograph. A mandatory piece of equipment. Loudshot er I mean Longshot works but

you're better served with HS-6, AutoComp or Silhouette. Tons of 9major info on here to research. Be safe!

Jim

[steel3924]

HS-6 is THE go to powder for the short loaded major 9 Glock imo. I use a 1.155 to 1.158 COAL in my Open (division) G17.

Good for you on the chronograph. A mandatory piece of equipment. Loudshot er I mean Longshot works but

you're better served with HS-6, AutoComp or Silhouette. Tons of 9major info on here to research. Be safe!

Jim

[steel3924]

This is the 3rd time you came and gave me good advice. Thanks for all your help.

Good luck on your shooting and enjoy the family.

thanks again...

[shooter57]

THANKS, for clearing things up. I didn't know you had to be a rocket scientist to reload. But, with the help of you guys and this forum, just maybe I will become one.

thanks again.

Just think of the case as the pad and the bullet is the rocket