ROC77 Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Can anyone provide a source for hands on reloading training. I am new to the sport and wish to purchase a Dillon XL 650 to load .357 sig. I am more of a visual learner. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdm74 Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 The dvd u can buy from enos or dillon was all the help I needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARKAVELI Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 (edited) hey Roc try the search, manuals and a bunch of them your gonna need em to reference data and compare data.. also if someone loads at your local gun club, youtube it even has seting up for other calibers.. Do you shoot in compatition? any reason why a 650? good luck and welcome to the forums! when you buy buy from Brian you should call him!!! Edited February 1, 2011 by MARKAVELI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Vigilante Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Don't know if you live in a big city or small town. I do know that NRA does offer Reloading classes thru certified instructors. However, whether there is one near you is the question. Have any friends that reload? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC77 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 No competition but maybe/possibly looking to supply friends, family, and others who have expressed interest in buying reloads. 650 seemed like the best deal going for the money...are the dvds caliber specific. I ask because I want to see someone loading the .357 sig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARKAVELI Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 No competition but maybe/possibly looking to supply friends, family, and others who have expressed interest in buying reloads. 650 seemed like the best deal going for the money...are the dvds caliber specific. I ask because I want to see someone loading the .357 sig Before I started reloading I wanted a Super1050 as my 1st press.. I called Dillon and told em that I am undecided and need help! so they recomended the 550 and sent me the DVD! but you can buy it for 20.00 from em! youtube Dillon Progressive I seen a lotta reloding up there but none of it was with 357 sig but it is almost if not close to being the same at reloading! buy your manuals now and read em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Vigilante Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I would forget about selling your reloads to friends or even giving your reloads to friends. One bad reload and you could be wiped out financially!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin G. Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Not trying to be a spoil sport here ROC77, but you may want to start off with a straight walled pistol case in a progressive machine. .357 Sig can make learning the in and outs of the machine a little more frustrating than it has to be. You will need to lube .357 Sig for sizing, and they are less tolerant with bell and crimp ranges. If you end up with too little case pressure on the bullet you may get set-back while loading. Experience will greatly reduce the chances of errors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 No competition but maybe/possibly looking to supply friends, family, and others who have expressed interest in buying reloads. 650 seemed like the best deal going for the money...are the dvds caliber specific. I ask because I want to see someone loading the .357 sig Completely illegal. In order to produce and sell ammo, you must have a type 6 FFL. You can produce ammo for your own use, but not for sale. Besides, the liability involved in the case of a bad round (double charged, or a squib follwed by a good round, both blowing up the gun and whatever is holding it), would far outweigh any benefit you might get from selling reloaded ammo. That being said, if you plan to reload for your own personal use, I would suggest (if you only plan on reloading pistol calibers) a Dillon SDB. If, in the future you plan on reloading rifle as well, then an Dillon RL 550B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC77 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 All great replies...let me back up. I am reloading for me, all that other stuff is waaaayyyy down the road and I am aware of what needs to happen before I can legally do so. Having said that, all I want to do is reload .357 sig. How hard is it to lube a case, and how come the belling and crimping is a problem. If a manufacture sells a product for a particular caliber then why should there be problems or additional equipment necessary to make it work. Maybe I just don't get it...sorry just frustrated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 All great replies...let me back up. I am reloading for me, all that other stuff is waaaayyyy down the road and I am aware of what needs to happen before I can legally do so. Having said that, all I want to do is reload .357 sig. How hard is it to lube a case, and how come the belling and crimping is a problem. If a manufacture sells a product for a particular caliber then why should there be problems or additional equipment necessary to make it work. Maybe I just don't get it...sorry just frustrated. The issue with the .357 sig is the bottle necked case. It being bottle necked, you have to load it like you would load a rifle catridge (at least with the sizing anyway). The lubing of the case is very simple....follow the directions on the lube you use... Belling/flairing is not really an issue either. You set the press to bell/flairt just enough to allow easier seating of the bullet (if you are using jacketed, which I assume you will be in .357 sig). In the crimp station, you are essentially just removing the bell/flair you put into the case in the powder drop station ( the diameter of the bullet + the case wall thickness x 2). Anymore crimp and it deforms the bullet, causing accuracy problems, any less and it won't feed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC77 Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 OK so how do you know how much belling or flare to put in the case...is it adjustable numerically??? If so what is the proper bell/flare...I would think this would be the same for any .357 sig round regardless of make and model bullet/casing. I just hear so many discrepancies for the same end result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 OK so how do you know how much belling or flare to put in the case...is it adjustable numerically??? If so what is the proper bell/flare...I would think this would be the same for any .357 sig round regardless of make and model bullet/casing. I just hear so many discrepancies for the same end result. It's more of a sight thing. You bell/flair the case just enough to allow the bullet to sit on top of the case. By just enough, I mean that the case has expanded, no more than 1/16th of an inch down the wall of the case, and no more that the thickness of the case walls x 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin G. Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 (edited) All great replies...let me back up. I am reloading for me, all that other stuff is waaaayyyy down the road and I am aware of what needs to happen before I can legally do so. Having said that, all I want to do is reload .357 sig. How hard is it to lube a case, and how come the belling and crimping is a problem. If a manufacture sells a product for a particular caliber then why should there be problems or additional equipment necessary to make it work. Maybe I just don't get it...sorry just frustrated. The issue with the .357 sig is the bottle necked case. It being bottle necked, you have to load it like you would load a rifle catridge (at least with the sizing anyway). The lubing of the case is very simple....follow the directions on the lube you use... Belling/flairing is not really an issue either. You set the press to bell/flairt just enough to allow easier seating of the bullet (if you are using jacketed, which I assume you will be in .357 sig). In the crimp station, you are essentially just removing the bell/flair you put into the case in the powder drop station ( the diameter of the bullet + the case wall thickness x 2). Anymore crimp and it deforms the bullet, causing accuracy problems, any less and it won't feed. OK so how do you know how much belling or flare to put in the case...is it adjustable numerically??? If so what is the proper bell/flare...I would think this would be the same for any .357 sig round regardless of make and model bullet/casing. I just hear so many discrepancies for the same end result. It's more of a sight thing. You bell/flair the case just enough to allow the bullet to sit on top of the case. By just enough, I mean that the case has expanded, no more than 1/16th of an inch down the wall of the case, and no more that the thickness of the case walls x 2. I guess my comment was taken wrong. If you know what you are doing and how to set everything up and how it should operate then yeah, .357 sig isn't a problem. but......it would be easy for the inexperienced loader to put too much bell on the case and leave a slight bulge in the middle of the neck reducing case tension. It sounds like you want to be sure you understand before jumping in, so get a 650, a friend that has some experience and go at it. Just be sure to read about each part of the process and understand it. Have fun, your at the right place to get help for sure. Edited February 2, 2011 by Kevin G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Personally, I would recommend a 550 instead of a 650. The 550, being a manually indexed press, should/is easier to get started on. But, to each their own....Best bet is to PM Brian or call him, and he'll deal you straight about what you need... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik S. Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 As has been said many times on this forum, you can't go wrong with a 550 or 650, BUT, when you were a kid building plastic models, you didn't jump straight to the EXPERT 1000pc models without your dad's help. Maybe a poor analogy, but if you get the 650 (or even the 550 for that matter), get the DVD from Dillon and watch every video you can on YouTube. There is no substitute for hands on training but since we are on the interweb, you're sort of on your own there as far as getting to know someone that can help you. Don't be too scared of .357 SIG, you just have a bit more research to do. You need to learn the basics of rifle reloading as well as pistol to be prepared because of the necked down case. With clean and lubed brass you'll be good to go. .357SIG is essentially a necked down .40. Loud little beasts aren't they Good luck, and as others have said, you're definitely in the right place to get good info on reloading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC77 Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 much appreciated guys...i am trying learn as much as i can...is there a big diff between the 550 and 650 other than the casefeed system??? Can someone run down a list of what items i would need in addition to the press...lets assume i go with the 550. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 much appreciated guys...i am trying learn as much as i can...is there a big diff between the 550 and 650 other than the casefeed system??? Can someone run down a list of what items i would need in addition to the press...lets assume i go with the 550. Thanks Neither of them come standard with a case feeder, that is optional. The major difference between the two is the 550 is manual index, meaning you have to turn the shellplate each time, where the 650 turns itself. Brian can help you out. He will tell you everything you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC77 Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 How do I get a hold of Brian??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ima45dv8 Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 How do I get a hold of Brian??? This link is to the main on-line store. His contact information is listed there. http://www.brianenos.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sincityshooter Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Good luck with the reloading. The 650 is a great press and depending on how much reloading you want to get out of it, there might be justification in purchasing the 650 over the 550. Don't let the .357 sig scare you. After loading close to 100K .38 supers I set up the press to load .300 win mag rifle cartriges and after getting a loading manual with the specs, it wasn't too hard. You better make sure that after cleaning brass, you spray down the clean brass with caselube. I spread out the brass on a shop towel and spray them down, then roll em around a bit, let the lube dry for a few minutes, and pour them in the case feeder. I haven't researched .357 sig, but you might want to check to see if you need to trim the case after sizing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC77 Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 Thanks...i have a guy here who is experienced in reloading, but not the sig. I will keep everyone posted cuz I am sure more questions will follow. My brother and I are going in on the 650...he has GAP, 9mm, and I have sig and ACP. I am looking to get 10mm Glock as well. I am sure we will keep the press busy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC77 Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 OK guys after talking with Brian...probably not going to reload .357 sig. However I have 1000ct of Montana Gold JHP unopened and 500 ct Starline Brass .357sig. I am not trying to make this an auction thread but if you could direct me or know someone that could use these let me know and we can work something out. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik S. Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Might sell them locally or on gunbroker, I think you have to have at least 50 posts to sell in the classified section here. Definitely don't make this thread an auction or it will get shut down quicker'n you can get yourself another beer. Glad you talked to Brian and he could help you out! I've always recommended avoiding the oddball calibers when you're first starting out like GAP, SIG, and 10mm. Start with .40, .45 or 9mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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