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S&W Custom Shop Chamfering


gr7070

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So what do folks think of the job S&W does on their cylinder chamfering?

I'm planning to send my 686 to them (for chamfering and an FO sight). I'm specifically referring to the amount of chamfering. Too deep, too little, just right?

Edited by gr7070
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So what do folks think of the job S&W does on their cylinder chamfering?

I'm planning to send my 686 to them (for chamfering and an FO sight). I'm specifically referring to the amount of chamfering. Too deep, too little, just right?

S&W will just barely break the edge. It will not be chamfered anywhere near as much as most of us use. If you don't want to do it yourself send it to some one like Mike Carmony. It will be done quicker and better.

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So what do folks think of the job S&W does on their cylinder chamfering?

I'm planning to send my 686 to them (for chamfering and an FO sight). I'm specifically referring to the amount of chamfering. Too deep, too little, just right?

S&W will just barely break the edge. It will not be chamfered anywhere near as much as most of us use. If you don't want to do it yourself send it to some one like Mike Carmony. It will be done quicker and better.

+1-- Makes sense to let a competitor customize your competition gun. I have had the opportunity to handle a couple guns he has worked on, definitely top-notch.

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I'll take that question: I generally do not chamfer the extractor itself. I do a fairly aggressive chamfer on the chamber mouths, but I really think it's best to leave the extractor alone. On a moonclip gun like a 625 or 610 you can chamfer the star also, but on something like a 686, you need to be sure the cartridge rim must be supported, to ensure proper headspacing and reliable ignition. Also, on the newer guns that don't have locating pins, but rely on the star "points" to locate the extractor, it's important to maintain the integrity of the extractor to make sure the cylinder will carry up correctly.

Thanks everybody for the kind words! I really appreciate your confidence in me.

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I'll take that question: I generally do not chamfer the extractor itself. I do a fairly aggressive chamfer on the chamber mouths, but I really think it's best to leave the extractor alone. On a moonclip gun like a 625 or 610 you can chamfer the star also, but on something like a 686, you need to be sure the cartridge rim must be supported, to ensure proper headspacing and reliable ignition. Also, on the newer guns that don't have locating pins, but rely on the star "points" to locate the extractor, it's important to maintain the integrity of the extractor to make sure the cylinder will carry up correctly.

Thanks everybody for the kind words! I really appreciate your confidence in me.

That confidence is well earned Mike. The work you have done for me was indeed top notch.

Oldtrooper

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That looks like the minimal factory chamfer job on Jerry's 627.

Can't think of any reason not to put more chamfer on it. Jerry always did have some "interesting" ideas about equipment....serrated triggers....smooth wood grips that hurt your hand....heck, for years he shot with full spring tensions, but I heard him say he "out-grew" that habit.

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