Loading for the Limited

[photog]

I've noticed that a few topics get discussed a bit and the loading for the Tanfoglio Limited is a hot topic, and I'm just reprinting some of what was in another thread.

This post is just a reference for me, and to help out anyone else who has relaoding issues for the Limited.

So I did a little testing and measurement. These test cases are all once fired RP nickle plated brass. I load them with a 180gr Montana Gold bullet, 5gr American Select and a WinSPP. I load long to 1.176" (vs max spec at 1.135") because they run better in my Limited.

Loaded rounds when the case was pushed through a Lee FCD:

Base Diameters .4215, .4220, .4215, .4215

Loaded Rounds when pushed through a hacksawed Lee 40S&W die:

Base Diameters .4185, .4190, .4185, .4185

Notes: The FCD die push through would only allow me to load to 19 rounds in my Hennings 141 mags (10mm body eaa factory). The Hacked 40 die allows me to load to 21 rounds in the SAME MAG.

Inside diameters of:

Lee Factory Crimp die carbide ring 0.4205"

Lee 40 Sizing die carbide ring 0.416"

EGW (modified lee) 40 U-Die Carbide ring 0.4120"

LE WIlson case gauge in 40S&W 0.4220

These measurements taken with cheapie calipers, but they were repeatable so I put at least a little confidence in the numbers. all the dies and gauges are well used.

My Conclusions for my setup :

1. if I don't use a push through system I get nosedives and only get 17 max in a 21 round mag.

2. If I use the FCD as a push through die I get fewer nosedives and get 19 max in a 21 round mag.

3. If I use a regular sizing die as a push through I get buttery smooth feeding and no nosedives and I get 21 rounds in the mag.

Again, if you don't have a problem then this is useless info, but I thought I'd share my findings.

I took some pics of my low dollar push through system:

The die is a hacksawed Lee 40 die. The body is not hard to cut through: tools needed are a fine tooth hacksaw and a file.

The pusher is a binder bolt that needed just a little filing to make it fit in the press. This part could be made from any bolt that will fit in your press. A grinder really helps for this.

The container is something most of us have on the bench, I cut a hole in the bottom and it holds more than 100 cases. Xacto knife needed.

I had to put a 3' handle on the press. This was in the leftover parts pile from a lazy susan remodel. I hate lubing cases. If I lube them they go through a lot easier, but this works too.

[Mark R]

Have you tried the Redding Gr-X Push-thru Die?

Gr-x Push Thru die

[photog]

Have you tried the Redding Gr-X Push-thru Die?

Gr-x Push Thru die

Nope. If the GR-X was in between the reg sizing die and FCD, that would probably work for me. I found I have to go SMALLER than the FCD to get the results I want.

Edited December 31, 2010 by photog

[B.H.M.]

What was your experience using the EGW U Die? I just bought a Limited and have had horrible luck getting it to feed factory ammo. I ordered a Dillon 550 and a single stage press that I plan on using to resize first. I ordered the EGW Die from Henning today and thought about drilling the threads out and using that as a press through die first... Thoughts?

[photog]

What was your experience using the EGW U Die? I just bought a Limited and have had horrible luck getting it to feed factory ammo. I ordered a Dillon 550 and a single stage press that I plan on using to resize first. I ordered the EGW Die from Henning today and thought about drilling the threads out and using that as a press through die first... Thoughts?

I think someone here on the forum is using the U-die as a push through. I think it is overkill as a push though. I'm still using the U-die as a normal sizing die for the reload process. My opinion is that a u-die that is used as a regular sizing die will not cure all the problem that I had (because it didn't), but may work for others. Trying to force the case all the way through a U-die is going to be tough, better lube it up and have a super burley bench and a rockchucker quality press. My Lee Challenger (aluminum) press would not give me enough leverage to get them through the regular die.

[Mark R]

Have you tried the Redding Gr-X Push-thru Die?

Gr-x Push Thru die

Nope. If the GR-X was in between the reg sizing die and FCD, that would probably work for me. I found I have to go SMALLER than the FCD to get the results I want.

I had problems with case bulge on once-fired brass....5-10% fail rate on Dillon chamber gage. I tried the U-die, but it was overkill...undersized way too much for me. I then purchased the GR-x push-thru die and it solved all my 40 brass problems. Purchased a $30 single stage press, mounted the push-thru die and now I run all my once-fired 40 brass thru it. Now I don't even have to check brass/rounds in the chamber gage...although I still do before a match.

[Warhammer4k]

I think someone here on the forum is using the U-die as a push through. I think it is overkill as a push though. I'm still using the U-die as a normal sizing die for the reload process. My opinion is that a u-die that is used as a regular sizing die will not cure all the problem that I had (because it didn't), but may work for others. Trying to force the case all the way through a U-die is going to be tough, better lube it up and have a super burley bench and a rockchucker quality press. My Lee Challenger (aluminum) press would not give me enough leverage to get them through the regular die.

My experience as well.

I find that the U-die is powerless to address a bulge occurring in the last 1/16" or so of the case web just above the extractor groove. Unfortunately, when dealing with 10mm brass which has been shot in a Glock chamber, this is where I run into problems. That part of the case is where the 10mm brass expands most. When such expansion remains after the reloading process, I get rounds that won't always chamber in the aftermarket, "match"-cut barrel I use with my Glock 20.

It's not an issue with my .40 S&W brass, because the only .40 S&W gun I own (S&W M&P) has a very, very generous chamber. So even rounds that are a bit fat at the case head have no problem chambering.

Like you, I can't be bothered to lube pistol brass. I have Lee FCDs in both .45 ACP and .40 S&W sizes, and have been thinking of making my own pusher doohickey so I can use them as push-through sizers.

[B.H.M.]

I just started reloading over the last couple days for my new Limited. The good news is that the longer OAL seems to have fixxed the nose dives for now. But I am using NEW Starline Brass loaded long to around 1.2 inches. I will start loading some used brass today and see what happens without using a push through die. Just in case I went ahead and hacked up a Lee Die like the original poster and mounted it in a single stage press. Time will tell! Thanks for the info.

[Red_SC]

I'm about to start loading .40 for an STI as well.

What is the difference between these two items?

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/231187/redding-g-rx-carbide-base-sizing-die-kit-40-s-and-w-357-sig-10mm-auto?productnumber=231187

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/358543/redding-g-rx-base-sizing-die-kit-40-s-and-w-357-sig-10mm-auto

I've seen several references to the Redding being twice the price of the Lee, so I assume most are using the top item. The bottom item is about the same cost as a Lee, though, and appears to have the same functionality. Am I missing something?

n/m, I see it now. Top is carbide, bottom is not.

Edited June 15, 2012 by Red_SC

[Skydiver]

With the K40 mags, you don't need to fully resize the brass anymore... unless you are have a really hard time trying to fit 21 into a magazine.

[gerritm]

I use Titegroup in both my 9mm loads and .45 loads and have had good luck with it, but never chronoed them. They just felt good and shot well. Always shot minor. I am going to major with a new .40 slide and barrel assembly and I think I will have a mag well and trigger job done on my Match by Canyon Creek.

Any reason why I can't work out a load and OAL with Titegroup? I will be getting a chrono to set this up.

gerritm

[CHA-LEE]

The pictures show you pushing the brass through rim side first. This is not recommended because you can stretch the brass making it longer. This will cause lock up issues when you shoot because the brass is too long. Push the brass through the die mouth side first.