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Fitting a Glock aftermarket barrel


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Hi all . I need to know what's involved in fitting an aftermarket barrel like a Barsto into a Glock.I am a machinist by trade and have access to a mill and lathe and can use files.I just can't seem to find any detailed instructions.Thanks guys!!!

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Hi all . I need to know what's involved in fitting an aftermarket barrel like a Barsto into a Glock.I am a machinist by trade and have access to a mill and lathe and can use files.I just can't seem to find any detailed instructions.Thanks guys!!!

Because they are all a little different. Wilson is just file back the hood. Bar-Sto is the hood length and the lug. Briley is the hood length, width, lug and ramp. IMHO, files are the way to go. Instructions and the places to cut/file come in the packages with the barrels. Each Glock is different enough that you won't always cut the barrel the same, thus the files and hand fitting.

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Hi all . I need to know what's involved in fitting an aftermarket barrel like a Barsto into a Glock.I am a machinist by trade and have access to a mill and lathe and can use files.I just can't seem to find any detailed instructions.Thanks guys!!!

Because they are all a little different. Wilson is just file back the hood. Bar-Sto is the hood length and the lug. Briley is the hood length, width, lug and ramp. IMHO, files are the way to go. Instructions and the places to cut/file come in the packages with the barrels. Each Glock is different enough that you won't always cut the barrel the same, thus the files and hand fitting.

Just to through it out there, if you get a KKM Match Gunsmith barrel, you will need to ream the chamber/throat. The drop in model will be just fine. Apparently the Gunsmith barrel is a little "short" due to the slide differences between factory Glock and aftermarket slides.

I have not installed a Barsto on a Glock buy my experience with SIGs has been fitting of the barrel hood (hand file/stone is fine) and occasionally the lug area (file/stone)

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when i fit a barrel i use a small round mirrow with a piece of wet or dry paper on it. mirrow makes for a known flat surface and if i do my part not rocking the barrel it'll come out true/flat/square. thinking about this i've had the mirrow since the late 80s using it to lap piston rings for go kart engines.

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when i fit a barrel i use a small round mirrow with a piece of wet or dry paper on it.

What is a "mirrow"?

I searched and found this: A mirrow is a reflective surface used by a boastful, self-conscious male who is vainly preoccupied with his own machismo. Usually a glass surface with a coating of silver, framed, and located in a bedroom or bathroom. Used by vain individuals who think they are saving the world from destruction; that is, a hero.

So I tried an "Image search" which poppe up a bunch of scantily clad women in mirrors...just as the wife walked in.

So, please do tell, it's driving me nuts not knowing what it is! :surprise:

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What is a "mirrow"?

I searched and found this: A mirrow is a reflective surface used by a boastful, self-conscious male who is vainly preoccupied with his own machismo. Usually a glass surface with a coating of silver, framed, and located in a bedroom or bathroom. Used by vain individuals who think they are saving the world from destruction; that is, a hero.

So I tried an "Image search" which poppe up a bunch of scantily clad women in mirrors...just as the wife walked in. So, please do tell, it's driving me nuts not knowing what it is! :surprise:

Too funny! Yup a mirror will work for checking the level on your file work. So will a single pane of window glass. I use a small machinist's square and a set of flat diamond knife sharpeners to slightly shorten and square up the back of the barrel hood.

The sides of the barrel lugs are what usually has to be filed to fit on a Bar-Sto Precision, 'semi drop-in' barrel. You're only talking about a silly .001 of an inch; so this is a fairly easy job to complete. After I finish up with the extra fine stone, I do, indeed, breakout the Dremel Tool and polish up the work area(s).

The whole fitting process usually takes me about an hour to complete. The first job I did took a lot longer; but, I was being real careful - About 3 hours' worth of careful. The end result? It's well worth the effort and expense!

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