.40 S&W powder question

[prebancolt]

So I came across this thread while searching 700X (IMR 700X). I have been loading Titegroup in .40 and 9mm recently for plinking purposes. I've only been shooting/reloading for about two months now, and I've been grabbing what powder I can find. I currently have:

Titegroup

Unique

IMR 700X

I know 700X was designed as a shotgun powder, but does anyone have any good experiences with it as a 9mm or .40 powder?

I Shoot USPSA limited Major In 40. I Also Have About 12Lbs Of 700X, So I've Been Running 3.9Gr Under A 200Gr Coated Lead Bullet. It'sVery Accurate And Very Low Recoiling. The Smoke Is A Little More Than With Other Powders And Its A Little Dirtier, But Right Now, Im Pretty Happy With The Performance And Cost. Try It, You Just Might Like it.

[prebancolt]

So I came across this thread while searching 700X (IMR 700X). I have been loading Titegroup in .40 and 9mm recently for plinking purposes. I've only been shooting/reloading for about two months now, and I've been grabbing what powder I can find. I currently have:

Titegroup

Unique

IMR 700X

I know 700X was designed as a shotgun powder, but does anyone have any good experiences with it as a 9mm or .40 powder?

Almost Forgot, I Also Love 700X For 9Mm Subsonic Rounds 124Gr And 147Gr. 700X Is Fast Burning, So It Makes For Pretty Quiet Loads.

[JasonandMichelle]

So I loaded two different 9mm loads:

115gr RN Copper Plated

3.4gr/3.5gr 700X (50 of each charge, all the rest was the same)

1.130 OAL

Out of a Glock 34, there wasn't enough charge to eject. Every round got caught. I'm thinking the load was too light, but now I have to pull about 90 bullets (I live in a city, so I make a bunch then go pay to shoot them at a range).

My question: is there something I can do to develop more force without having to tear down each round? IE: if I shorten OAL to, say 1.110, will it develop enough pressure to eject properly?

[Croomrider]

My question: is there something I can do to develop more force without having to tear down each round? IE: if I shorten OAL to, say 1.110, will it develop enough pressure to eject properly?

Put a reduced power recoil spring in your gun. You may want to do that anyway if you want to shoot lower powered loads for some reason. Personally I don't think shortening the OAL is something I would do. You may increase your pressure drastically and still not eject the brass.

Mike

Edited May 15, 2013 by Croomrider

[JasonandMichelle]

My question: is there something I can do to develop more force without having to tear down each round? IE: if I shorten OAL to, say 1.110, will it develop enough pressure to eject properly?

Put a reduced power recoil spring in your gun. You may want to do that anyway if you want to shoot minor for some reason. Personally I don't think shortening the OAL is something I would do. You may increase your pressure drastically and still not eject the brass.

Mike

Food for thought, and I completely understand your point: I'm loading at 1.130 and starting OAL is listed at 1.110. Do you think taking it to the starting OAL is at least worth a shot?

Also, you mentioned reduced recoil springs: I'm fairly new to all this so are there different ratings/levels, etc.? Ball park prices for those?

I appreciate your help, guys.

[wgj3]

If you look into any of the spring maker sites like Wolff or ISMI, you will be inundated with more springs than you can shake your guiderod at. For light 9mm, I would imagine that something in the 9-12 lb rated range would be about standard. Usually can be had for $10 or so, but Glock stuff is everywhere, so you might even be able to source something form your LGS too.

[Croomrider]

Food for thought, and I completely understand your point: I'm loading at 1.130 and starting OAL is listed at 1.110. Do you think taking it to the starting OAL is at least worth a shot?

It probably wouldn't hurt to try that if you stay within book suggested OAL, but I doubt very much that it will make enough difference to cycle your gun. The other problem though, is that you are likely going to cut into the copper plating if you try to push the bullet back with any crimp at all.

A suggestion for the future. When developing loads, don't load up so many of one load until you try some. Also, 1/10 of a grain is a pretty useless increment, unless you are down to the "fine tuning" stage!

Mike

Edited May 15, 2013 by Croomrider

[prebancolt]

So I loaded two different 9mm loads:

115gr RN Copper Plated

3.4gr/3.5gr 700X (50 of each charge, all the rest was the same)

1.130 OAL

Out of a Glock 34, there wasn't enough charge to eject. Every round got caught. I'm thinking the load was too light, but now I have to pull about 90 bullets (I live in a city, so I make a bunch then go pay to shoot them at a range).

My question: is there something I can do to develop more force without having to tear down each round? IE: if I shorten OAL to, say 1.110, will it develop enough pressure to eject properly?

I Would Hate To, But I Think I Would Tear Down The Loads. I'm Guessing Around 3.7-3.8 Gr Will Be Minimum ToWhere You Want To Be.

[Bunsen]

Universal Clays is my current powder of choice for 40 S&W.

[JasonandMichelle]

Universal Clays is my current powder of choice for 40 S&W.

Why's that?

To everyone else, thanks for the advise. I load 50 at a time currently because it costs me $10 per opportunity to shoot at a local range. I'd rather go with a box, but after reading this, I should probably load up several different kinds of loads then hit the range.

I hate tearing them down because the powder gets everywhere, but I guess I'd rather tear down 10 than 100!

[ProGunGuy]

i really doubt you will get any ejection with the stock springs till you get to at least 4.5 gr of 700x.

[gearguywb]

Not a huge fan of 700X just due to the fact it is a bit "smoky" and certainly dirtier than other powders on the market today. Long ago 700X was loved by many because it was very versatile, 9mm, 45, shotgun, etc. But, as with many things that versatile, there are compromises made elsewhere.

If the loads won't cylce, bite the bullet (pun )and pull them. No sense in spending money on another spring that you really don't need. It's part of the learning curve as a reloader!

[chevyoneton]

I only load .40 currently for Production minor and being cheap, use a dab (3.5 gr.) of Titegroup under a 180 grain cast bullet. It is a light charge but I can see it in the case. I second one of the previous posters recommendations for a light over stations two/three. I have a gooseneck desk light set behind the press with the head snaked around the press so it shines right down in the case at station three so I can see the charge before I seat a bullet. A little LED type thing there would be the cat's meow. The biggest and best thing to prevent double charges (or the opposite, no charge at all) is CONSISTANCY. Having a set routine ingrained in muscle memory for operating your 550B will give you the best results.

[mwf008]

I use 5.2 n320. A double charge fills the case all the way with no spillage. It's very noticeable and you would be unable to seat a bullet.

[gunsablazin]

I use WW231, 3.9 grs. gives me 740 fps with a 175gr cast bullet. It works fine for plinkin/IDPA . A double would be noticeable, but still possible to seat a bullet, so pay attention, always a must when reloading.

[perrysho]

For WHAT IT"S WORTH !

Most folks who come here and ask about components have already made their mind up anyway.

That said ! Buy a wire frame make-up mirror at the dollar store, make a mount via all thread, hose clamps anything you have. Mount to the frame of your press, focus to look into case before placeing bullet. May need a flex-neck desk lite too. Train yourself to look every time you place a bullet. A lee taper crimp die and go.

Buy/borrow a Chrono and some free help, work up your own reloads, 10 at a time - test and etc

you will probally be loading whatever to hello you can find.

Be SAFE,

Perry

Pure Hillbilly, "Don't do DUMB Sheit"