steel1212 Posted November 28, 2010 Author Share Posted November 28, 2010 Good information guys thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 I've seen your reloads... but I don't know how the rounds don't wobble enough to cause you grief! The only thing that holds the rounds in the loader is the rim of the brass and the star of the reloader. If the rounds are wobbling, something is wrong. The main reason for the factory depth of the loader is so you can load them without using a loading block. I filled the hole with JB weld I think. If you don't fill the hole then the loader can catch on the pin in the center of the cylinder and won't fall away. Should this thread be a sticky? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 I've seen your reloads... but I don't know how the rounds don't wobble enough to cause you grief! The only thing that holds the rounds in the loader is the rim of the brass and the star of the reloader. If the rounds are wobbling, something is wrong. The main reason for the factory depth of the loader is so you can load them without using a loading block. I filled the hole with JB weld I think. If you don't fill the hole then the loader can catch on the pin in the center of the cylinder and won't fall away. Should this thread be a sticky? Mine aren't wobbly but I understand what you are saying. Before I cut mine I tried a friend's that were cut a little more aggressive than mine are now. I seemed to manage to have problems with them getting misaligned during my reloads and have a couple "not go in". Maybe it was my errors. I may try to cut some more aggressively. Mine don't get hung up now but maybe they will be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlweems Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 What is the benefit of cutting the loaders in such a manner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelShooten Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 What is the benefit of cutting the loaders in such a manner? Unmodified, the rims of the cases can drag in the loader if the loader fails to stay aligned after the release is triggered. Shortening the skirt allows the loader to separate from the cartridges sooner/cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Hope it's not too much of a thread drift, but do you guys chamfer the cylinder holes on your speedloader guns? I have on my moonclipped 625 and it works great. Just wondering about the SSR/Classic guns. I have the occasional hang up trying to charge the cylinder. Can't seem to see whats hanging up other than maybe a case on the cylinder edge. Thanks Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Hope it's not too much of a thread drift, but do you guys chamfer the cylinder holes on your speedloader guns? I have on my moonclipped 625 and it works great. Just wondering about the SSR/Classic guns. I have the occasional hang up trying to charge the cylinder. Can't seem to see whats hanging up other than maybe a case on the cylinder edge. Thanks Kevin Honestly... I can't imagine doing reloads without chamfered chambers!! Really. I had my first 686 done and it was lightly done but it seemed to be fine for reloading. Then I got a back up and without chamfering the reloading was a joke! PITA and very slow. I got the chamfering tools from Brownells and did my new gun and touched up my original one a bit. Came out great! I didn't smooth the cuts(round edges) but they still work pretty good IMO. I didn't go crazy deep with the chamfers either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thanks, I'm gonna do that ASAP. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Finally got my comp IIIs in! I'll be doing some cutting tomorrow I think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 For the filling the hole in the comp III mod. What are you guys using? I was thinking of using some thread all and running it until it bottoms out after taping it then using thread locker to lock it down. Would there be any problem with bottoming out the thread all in the hole or is there something that needs to move in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 For the filling the hole in the comp III mod. What are you guys using? I was thinking of using some thread all and running it until it bottoms out after taping it then using thread locker to lock it down. Would there be any problem with bottoming out the thread all in the hole or is there something that needs to move in there? Since I like simple, I went to lowe's and got a long 1/4 X 20 nylon screw and jamed it down the hole and sliced it off flush with a razor blade, done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) For the filling the hole in the comp III mod. What are you guys using? I was thinking of using some thread all and running it until it bottoms out after taping it then using thread locker to lock it down. Would there be any problem with bottoming out the thread all in the hole or is there something that needs to move in there? Steel1212, Just mix up some epoxy and dobb the epoxy with the part until it fills the hole. More simple just have to make sure none of it sticks to the sides. And for that you can just wipe it off before it dries. I found that easier that getting a bolt the right size. Later rdd Edited to correct my spelling Edited January 11, 2011 by Bubber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 I wanted to make sure it wouldn't get pushed in from repeated use and the thread seems to be able to do just that. Just tread t in, cut it off with dremel and locktite it then grind down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I wanted to make sure it wouldn't get pushed in from repeated use With the nylon screw, I just pushed it in until it bottomed out and sliced it off. No danger of it getting pushed in since it's all the way in to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 I wanted to make sure it wouldn't get pushed in from repeated use With the nylon screw, I just pushed it in until it bottomed out and sliced it off. No danger of it getting pushed in since it's all the way in to start. well yeah, that was my thinking but with the thread all its well threaded, not that it matters it just has to keep from coming out the front not the back. Same plan though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 (edited) First outting shooting SSR. My SSR only has a FO front and Weigand rear sight other than that its stock. I "Bubberized" my speedloaders down flush with the center star. I might go farther on my next ones though. Here is the video. I'm particularly proud of the reloads on the last 2 stages. I was 2nd overall on those 2 stages behind the Want2Race who had the lowest time on both and I was less than a second on the 5th stage in the video and 2.5 on the last one Edited January 17, 2011 by steel1212 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 I was thinking about trimming the top part of the grip, the part that points up directly above the medallion, so that when I eject the empties they will fall free instead of getting hung up there. Anybody done this? Any reason not to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr7070 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Those last two stages reloads were quite fast. Nice. Is your cylinder chamferred? Curious what you think of it. I was thinking about trimming the top part of the grip, the part that points up directly above the medallion, so that when I eject the empties they will fall free instead of getting hung up there. Anybody done this? Any reason not to? Mine get hung up there frequently. I noticed you doing the shake because of it. Personally I'd have a hard time cuting my grips to alleviate that, just doesn't sit right - purely from a preference thing, I have no real good reason not to. I am getting some wooden grips; I'm wondering if they'll unload differently from my factory synthetic grips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Those last two stages reloads were quite fast. Nice. Is your cylinder chamferred? Curious what you think of it. Thanks! Its just as it came from the factory so if it is it isn't much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I was thinking about trimming the top part of the grip, the part that points up directly above the medallion, so that when I eject the empties they will fall free instead of getting hung up there. Anybody done this? Any reason not to? Cutting the "ears" on the grip can help if brass is catching and staying there in the way. Some of my revos are cut that way others don't seem to be a problem. I spoke with No343 on such an item. He reloads with his left hand a simple cant towards the cylinde will let the brass fall away. You are using the different method and canting the revo may be problematic as you would have to cant the revo to the right to allow the brass to fall and may cause a problem with the 180 rule. Later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Steel1212- You are tossing the speedloader off to the right side after each reload. Once the shells have been released, just let go and let it fall between your hands. Could buy you an easy second or so per reload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Steel1212- You are tossing the speedloader off to the right side after each reload. Once the shells have been released, just let go and let it fall between your hands. Could buy you an easy second or so per reload. Yeah, I said that to myself every time I did it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I was thinking about trimming the top part of the grip, the part that points up directly above the medallion, so that when I eject the empties they will fall free instead of getting hung up there. Anybody done this? Any reason not to? Good vid, thanks. Honestly, though, I'm not convinced your brass hanging up is due to your grips. Check out the pics below. As soon as you open the cylinder, the gun leaves the top red line and goes down with your strong hand to speedloader level(bottom red line). AS a result, your gun isn't vertical for very long, and worse, you're starting to flip the gun muzzle-down before the brass had a chance to clear the gun. Instead, keep the gun up (top red line below) and eject while your strong hand goes for the speedloader. Keep the gun vertical as you lower it to speedloader level and the gun is near-vertical (notice the muzzle is slightly forward of the 180) for longer, so the brass has longer to fall free. Also, if you don't already, practice your reloads with empty brass in the gun. Preferable dirty, not-resized. Without empty brass as part of your reload practice, your thumb can easily adopt a weak ejection stroke (ask me how I know ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Yeah I have dummys that I use, but I guess the rounds coming out wouldn't have bullets in them would they? Maybe I need to used dirty unsized ones. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Good thread.... I am modifying my reloads per the advise I have seen here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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