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FN SLP Mag Tube Spring


gardnerxx

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Who out there has attempted to lighten their mag tube spring to ease loading and ended up cutting off too many coils?? FN SLP now hangs up when last round is coming out of tube. Any recommendations for manufactors who sell tube springs?

Thanks,

Fustrated and desparate for a replacement spring before the next match!

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Cool... Thanks... I'll check them out. I need to order a few because I know I'll screw up another one or two, before I get it right.

I thought I had it just right, well almost right. I wanted to push it just a little more. Loading was a breeze, then one more coil, then one more, then oh shi*t, it doesn't feed the last shell... Damn!

Sonny,

I ordered mine direct from Nordic Componets.

Get two they are cheap.

RA

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Most set ups will run well with about 12" of spring past the tube when it is cut off. The problem with getting it "just right" at about 8 or 9" is that as it looses strength due to age and use or things get slowed down with a bit of dust and heat "just right" becomes not enough and it always happens at the match not at practice.

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+1 on the Nordic Components. They are a bunch of great guys there and quality products. And keep a couple handy.

An advice would be to remove the end cap of your magazine tube and let the spring relax and hang out the end. With the one end of the spring against the followed set on the receiver end, measure 14" of the spring from the end of the tube. 14" would give you a good tension when the spring is compressed with the end cap. Replace the end cap and see if you can fit the desired amount of rounds in the tube. If you find yourself almost being able to load that one last round, you may be able to cut a couple more coils off the spring. But remember that a compressed coil is only about 1/8 of an inch compared to a relaxed coil whcih could be as much as an inch apart. I would not recommend going below 12" as you'll loose to much coils.

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How much does the spring compress? How often should it be changed?

It'll probably compress to about 2-3 inches, depending on the overall lenght of the spring relaxed and the number of coils.

My Benelli Supernova has a 24" barrel and a Nordic Comp mag tube extension that is flushed with the barrel. I'd say that my overall lenght of my tube is around 24". The Nordic Comp spring I use is cut to 38" long when completely relaxed, which leaves about 14" hanging out of the mag tube with the end-cap removed. Now a live "2&3/4" shell is actually just a little over 2&1/4" in lenght. Lining up nine rounds alongside my mag tube, I have about 3" of space in the end of the tube for the srpig to compress.

As for how often it should be changed, it would depend on how often you use it and how you store your shotgun. The Nordic Components mag tube spring is $7.95 a piece on their website. Very quality stuff at a very good price. So I make it a point to replace my spring every year. It may be overkill, but I like dependabilty and maximum performance out of my shotgun everytime I use it.

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I cut a Nordic spring about 3 inches shorter than my stock FN SLP MK1 spring and the Nordic Spring feels stiffer still.

The nordic spring is noticeably thicker than the SLP factory spring which explains your problem....I would never cut the factory spring (it is the fall back when others fail)....get a packet of nordics and cut one down until u start getting failures, then cut the other down to the point right before the first failed...then u have the lightest possible spring that still allows functionality.

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Agreed.... I bought 3 from Nordic and it arrived in about 4 days. I wanted to compare my self-imposed defective factory spring with the new ones from Nordic, but the compression rate is different. So, I couldn't use it as a bench mark. I put in the Nordic spring and left about 12" of relaxed spring out of the mag tube, then cut from there. I had much more spring tension then I wanted to cut about 3 inches more off. My shotgun runs great without failure now.

If you're going to cut springs.... buy a few just in case.

Thanks for all the comments!

Sonny

I cut a Nordic spring about 3 inches shorter than my stock FN SLP MK1 spring and the Nordic Spring feels stiffer still.

The nordic spring is noticeably thicker than the SLP factory spring which explains your problem....I would never cut the factory spring (it is the fall back when others fail)....get a packet of nordics and cut one down until u start getting failures, then cut the other down to the point right before the first failed...then u have the lightest possible spring that still allows functionality.

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Agreed.... I bought 3 from Nordic and it arrived in about 4 days. I wanted to compare my self-imposed defective factory spring with the new ones from Nordic, but the compression rate is different. So, I couldn't use it as a bench mark. I put in the Nordic spring and left about 12" of relaxed spring out of the mag tube, then cut from there. I had much more spring tension then I wanted to cut about 3 inches more off. My shotgun runs great without failure now.

If you're going to cut springs.... buy a few just in case.

Thanks for all the comments!

Sonny

I cut a Nordic spring about 3 inches shorter than my stock FN SLP MK1 spring and the Nordic Spring feels stiffer still.

The nordic spring is noticeably thicker than the SLP factory spring which explains your problem....I would never cut the factory spring (it is the fall back when others fail)....get a packet of nordics and cut one down until u start getting failures, then cut the other down to the point right before the first failed...then u have the lightest possible spring that still allows functionality.

Awesome dude. Glad it worked for ya!

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  • 1 year later...

I just tried this fix at the house. I used a Nordic spring, ran it down the mag tube until I was sure it was seated in the follower and "bottomed out". I cut 15" off the spring and that left me with 13" of mag spring hanging out the end of the tube.

I loaded 8 Remington factory dummy rounds in the tube a couple times and tried hand cycling. Almost every round hung up on the retention bar. ( The thingy inside the lower receiver that catches each shell before it goes back on the lifter)

What did I do wrong?

Edited by Kyreb
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kyreb. you need to go to the range and run the gun for function. i did the same thing and some times hand cycling the gun does not work, but my gun runs 100% firing. I am pretty sure it has to due with the recoil impulse from the round as opposed to hand cycling. Think of how slow you hand cycle as opposed to recoil like the gun was designed for.

I am willing to bet your gun fires fine at the range

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All this talk of changing springs has me concerned. I can load 8 2/34" shells and they all feed great. Were i to cut the swpring back would I be getting a 9th round in the tube or simply making it easier to load? I may be old but the old thumb is still capable of pushing that 8th round in OK.

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Kyreb,

I have had a similar problem with my SX2 and SX3. My problem was from having too much magazine spring tension which in turn didn't allow the shell catch to release. If your gun turns into a single shot at the range you might want to check to see if that is your problem.

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I just installed the +1 Nordic extension and used my factory spring per the direction of the Nordic tech I spoke to. It's worked without any issues for 150 rounds. I've shot slugs, 00 Buck and birdshot without any issues with cycling. Hopefully it stays that way. If not I still have the Nordic spring to fall back on.

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