first time loading lake city brass have a question about volume

[Mat Price]

Hey guys I have never loaded military brass before I got 1000 pieces of lake city processed at a real good price. ( primer pockets swaged on 1050 dillon) Is this a good safe load to start with. I am not sure about figuring the reduced volume of the mill brass.

to be shot out of remington r-15 vrt 22 inch barrel 1-9 twist

69 sierra MK HPBT Hodgdon Varget 23.3gr 2.260 OAL ( this is the Sierra recommend starting load BTW)

Mat

[Corey]

while mil brass may be a tad thicker and thus less capacity, i wouldnt worry about it until you got higher up the scale of the powder listings. Start with the minimum load listed (which you have) and work up slowly watching for any signs of pressure issues. when you start to see warnings, dont go any higher.

[DougCarden]

Mat, with the OAL....make sure that it will fit in the magazine. That is your limiting factor. As you probably have read in the other rifle posts, crimp or not to crimp. In the ARs....I apply a light crimp with a Lee die. Good luck, go slow, make sure when you load the first couple of rounds they will feed from the magazine and EXTRACT easily. If you didnt resize the case properly, you will have problems pulling the case out.

Good luck,

DougC

[Mat Price]

Mat, with the OAL....make sure that it will fit in the magazine. That is your limiting factor. As you probably have read in the other rifle posts, crimp or not to crimp. In the ARs....I apply a light crimp with a Lee die. Good luck, go slow, make sure when you load the first couple of rounds they will feed from the magazine and EXTRACT easily. If you didnt resize the case properly, you will have problems pulling the case out.

Good luck,

DougC

thanks doug. The oal is cool with my mag they load and eject fine. I haven't been putting a crimp on my loads that I have i have done with production brass but i a may start. what i am dealing with now though is this 100% processed brass is not even close.i am having seriuos issues getting this lake city once fired brass primed with my lee auto prime they dont want to seat most of them go in crooked or smash. they were processed on a dillon 1050 I saw the man running it when i picked it up. I have had to chuck my chamfer tool in my drill to get the ones i could seat in. here is a pic is it the brass.

I am getting a dillon super swage today yall think that will fix this brass up ?

[Corey]

a cheap but maybe not as quick method for removing the primer crimp is a case neck beurring tool. put one in a drill or get a pwer adaptor and buzz each primer pocket to remove the crimp ring. its a one time deal and your done obiously. I do a bunch of mine this way while im watching tv...

[DougCarden]

Mat, I have never used Lee equipment......so I don't know if it is a brass problem or a priming system problem. I would take some of the offending brass and try and prime them on other equipment and see if it is the brass. If you have been priming other brass and had no problems, and now have problems with this brass then it probably needs to be redone.

DougC

[pjb45]

My Dillon 1050 did not swage the primer pocket very well either. I brought the Super Swage and never worried about the primers not fitting again.

I worked with my 1050 swaging system for many days and just could not get the results I wanted. I was told I really needed to separate my brass and adjust it to each category. Even the older LC needed to be apart from the newer LC. I figured it was me and not the equipment. Again, the Super Swage alleviated all these issues. Even with it, I noticed I still adjusted it while I was doing my brass.

BTW: you AOL would not fit in my mags, it is too long. I also put a slight taper crimp on my rounds.

[jmurch]

I quit using the Dillon super swage and bought a primer pocket truer from Sinclair. 10% of the cost and better IMO.

Jeff

BTW I single stage so I don't know but what part of a 1050 swages?

Edited September 9, 2010 by jmurch

[Mat Price]

Mat, I have never used Lee equipment......so I don't know if it is a brass problem or a priming system problem. I would take some of the offending brass and try and prime them on other equipment and see if it is the brass. If you have been priming other brass and had no problems, and now have problems with this brass then it probably needs to be redone.

DougC

This is the first brass in 6 years i have not been able to prime with that lee tool. on the other hand this is the first military i have ever tried to prime with that tool also. I think the biggest issue is that since the primer pocket is somewhat off center in realtion to hand tool the primer is not able to line up correctly. after removing a little bit of material with my chamfer i can seat them fairly easily. however i am afraid I may remove to much material and end up blowin out a primer. Thnks for the help doug.

Pj these remington stock 5 round mags seem to be a little deeper than after market mags. I dont own any high cap mags and to be honest alot of my loads are "one at a timers anyway" and jmurch i single stage also. I am still saving pennies for a 550. I still even load 9mm and 40 s&W on the good old faithful rock chucker.

well i am off to pick up the super swage I figure wth? i can get what ever i want now process myself and i know its done right.

[jgedmond]

L E Wilson trimmer with primer pocket reamer works great for me.

[anachronism]

You can chuck your favorite primer pocket reamer in your cordless drill & buzz through your brass in no time at all. I'm using the reamer bit from a Lyman hand reamer. I tried Hornadys reamer, but feel it removes too much brass, but the Lyman reamer seems okay. You might want to experiment a bit to see which you prefer.

[djeffers]

I have been reloading mixed HS brass and when doing so, I also noticed that the LC brass was noticeably more full than all the other 223 brass. I was loading 69 SMK, with 25.0 gr of BLC2. I have seen a couple of posts to cut back 10% for this brass? Is there another rule of thumb? Has anyone tried this and tried them on the chrono?