Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Got a few questions about the LNL AP


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm thinking about getting a LNL AP press and have a few questions before I switch from my 650. I've done what I can to research these questions but haven't been able to get a good answer yet and no one close to me runs one.

First off, is there any type of signal or something to tell you when you are out, or nearly out of primers? My Dillons have an audible buzzer that sounds when you get low. Is there something comparable to this on the Hornady press? Second, if you go to a powder thru expander in the powder thrower, can you move the thrower to station 2. That is, next to the sizing station? I want to put 3 dies after the powder thrower as I do on my current press and was not sure if this was possible. 3rd, what all is involved in changing the case feeder over from caliber to caliber. Like say, from .40 s&w to .223. (Two of the calibers I'll be loading on this press.) On my Dillon 650, there are a couple pieces/bushings and a feeder plate that needs swapped. I know there is are different case feeder plates for the Hornady case feeder but what about on the press side. Do you have to change anything else over? Lastly, is there a spare parts package you can purchase that contains commonly broken parts? I bought the spares kit for my 650 and it's saved my baken a couple times. I know Hornady like Dillon will replace the part, even if it's operator error but what do you do when it's 6pm the night before a match??

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Eric

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Die kits come with spare primer pins. I bought package of the case retainer springs (holds the cases on the shell plate) and a spare primer slide. I should get spares for the primer slide spring and the powder drop return spring. I've not loaded a lot, probably only 7000 (9mm & 40SW) and nothing has broken yet, not even primer decapper pins. No problem with powder drop at station 2. Priming happens at station 2, so powder drop would happen immediately after priming. The Horanday PTX is not very good, I'd try this http://powderfunnels.com/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First off, is there any type of signal or something to tell you when you are out, or nearly out of primers? My Dillons have an audible buzzer that sounds when you get low. Is there something comparable to this on the Hornady press?
No audio signal. I use a 1/16" dowel in small primer, and a 1/8" dowel in large primers. It is rests on top of the primers and I have indicated with marker on the dowels the "red zone" and the "empty zone". If you miss it, the dowel will catch the primer slide and keep it from moving so that when you try to seat you'll feel a big "whoosh" as you try to seat a nonexstant primer. I find it is 100%.
Second, if you go to a powder thru expander in the powder thrower, can you move the thrower to station 2. That is, next to the sizing station?
Yes, that is how I do it. I find the Hornady PTX works fine for me loading lead or jacketed in .38, .40 and .45 but not 9mm. I bought the funnel for 9 mm, and it works swell, and the funnel also works well for everything else.
Lastly, is there a spare parts package you can purchase that contains commonly broken parts? I bought the spares kit for my 650 and it's saved my baken a couple times...
Buy a few case retainer springs, maybe a primer slide spring and a powder bar return spring. All I've ever broken was the case retainer spring (actually just kinked it) and I've since learned that those can be screwed together anyway. I'm up to about 60K of 9, .38, .40 & .45 on my Lnl AP over ~2 years, so judge accordingly.

Best,

Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A +1 for the powderfunnels funnel. He just did a shipment, if you order he might have some left over. If not you will have to place your order and wait for the next batch. 

Myself, I just use a small dowel with a piece of .45 brass on the end of it to keep the primers from bouncing and to let me know if I'm getting low. (The bounicng only matters if your bench moves or flexes). 

What you want to have spare on hand for a new ez-ject style press.  

The basics: At least one spare case retainer spring. 

Comprehensive (IMO): two spare case retainer springs, one spare powder throw spring, one spare of each primer plunger and each primer sled (unless it is for a dedicated caliber, than just a spare of the right size sled and ram). 

that covers pretty much everything I have needed on the press in several years and several tens of thousands of rounds. 

NOTE: for pre ez-ject systems, add at LEAST two ejector wires as you'll need a small, medium, and large case diameter bend to them to make them work smoothly. Seriously, just get the upgrade. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, I'm thinking about getting a LNL AP press and have a few questions before I switch from my 650. I've done what I can to research these questions but haven't been able to get a good answer yet and no one close to me runs one.

First off, is there any type of signal or something to tell you when you are out, or nearly out of primers? My Dillons have an audible buzzer that sounds when you get low. Is there something comparable to this on the Hornady press? Second, if you go to a powder thru expander in the powder thrower, can you move the thrower to station 2. That is, next to the sizing station? I want to put 3 dies after the powder thrower as I do on my current press and was not sure if this was possible. 3rd, what all is involved in changing the case feeder over from caliber to caliber. Like say, from .40 s&w to .223. (Two of the calibers I'll be loading on this press.) On my Dillon 650, there are a couple pieces/bushings and a feeder plate that needs swapped. I know there is are different case feeder plates for the Hornady case feeder but what about on the press side. Do you have to change anything else over? Lastly, is there a spare parts package you can purchase that contains commonly broken parts? I bought the spares kit for my 650 and it's saved my baken a couple times. I know Hornady like Dillon will replace the part, even if it's operator error but what do you do when it's 6pm the night before a match??

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Eric

Hi Eric,

Have a look at this link with my post #25:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101535

There are pictures with my setup for LNL AP that could help to answer your questions.

I've loaded over 10K of 9x19, not a single broken part.

But it is good to have some spare springs and don't need them, than the other way.

Powderfunnel works great, but I'm not sure that it will fit .223

Regards,

Erik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eric - Get the powder funnel, the Hornady powder thru are not good. Spare parts, a case retaining spring, and a primer slide. Unless you are prone to losing small parts then the primer slide return spring and the powder measure return spring.

The dillon case feed wheels work fine in the hornady and visa versa they are just different colors. I have both sitting side by side.

When it comes to switching calibers (the part that pertains to the case feeder) there are a number of small parts that need to be changed and more importantly adjusted. Notice the more importantly adjusted. With the dillon there is no adjustment on the case feed parts and THAT IS A BIG PLUS. When I swtich calibers on the Hornady it will take me about 50 to 100 rounds to get the case feeding working perfectly with the dillon its perfect with the first round. (I have a piece of cardboard at the top of the case feeder that stops the rain and any cases from getting side ways or upside down).

Having both I wonder why you would want to swtich, the main thing on the Hornady that I like better is the Powder Measure and I just use it on the Dillon when I'm doing some loads. Other than that I consider them fairly equivalent, the dillon just has more small parts to lose and break. Caliber conversions are cheaper on the Hornady.

Since I load 9 major on the Hornady and the case if very full I have to stop and clean the primer punch and the primer slide area about every 200 rounds, I just keep a can of brake cleaner handy and spray it clean. (I load in one of my metal buildings).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As CocoBolo pointed out loading 9 Major requires regular cleaning evey ~200 rnds or so but 40S&W (depending on load used) is much better. I can go 500-800 rnds before I need to clear the shell plate area.

As to primer level, my press kit came with a small plastic rod that you insert on top of the stack of primers in the feed tube. I helps the primers feed when you get los and indicates when you're low. I put the rod in the tube when it was empty and used some blue painters tape to mark "empty". You can see when you get low.

The only part that "broke" was the case retaining spring and that was MY fault.

For the case drop there are handful of parts to change and some adjustment is necessary but maybe not as much as CocoBolo. The timing can be the timing can be the trickiest bit. Unfortunately going from 40 to 223 will force you to change all the parts that could be changed! Keep your instruction handy. They may not be the best, but they are helpful.

For 40S&W, use the small pistol plate for the case feeder, it works better. The large plate will work for 40 S&W but it does jam a lot. For 223 I've had some problems with the case feeder system inserting the case into the shell plate (lots of tipping). I found a SLIGHT stretching of the case retaining spring helped (this is where I "broke" the spring), but I've only done a few hundred 223 so there may be other tricks. I've just not pressed the issue yet.

My pistol dies are:

1. sizer

2. powder measure w/ PTX (Hornady seems to be working ok for me, YMMV)

3. RCBS lock out

4. seater

5. Lee FCD

My rifle dies:

1. sizer

2. powder drop

3. open visual inspection of powder charge

4. seater

5. Lee FCD

I use a lot of Lee dies. They work well but due to the thickness of the tool head you need to screw them WAY down.

I've used both Redding and Lee 223 dies. The Lee's work well but I like the Redding better - seem a little smoother.

Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Dillon or RCBS low primer warning device (same thing, different color), will work on the LNL. I had to wrap a piece of tape around the LNL primer tube, then the buzzer fit and works like usual. You have to trim a little bit from the long plastic rod, but that's easy. It's plastic.

I use the Hornady PTX with great success. The problem with the design is that it takes LOTS of fiddling to get the adjustments correct. I made a quick and easy adjustable slider bar. Now I love the PTX. See here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76573

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys I really appreciate all the help and info.

My primary reasons for switching from the 650 to the Hornady press were eliminating the entire tool head sitting on the bench and smoother indexing. I like how you can take the dies out and put them back in the die box....then put it on a shelf. I'm short on space in my reloading area and this is appealing for me. On the indexing issue, it's not a problem for most loads but it is when the case is almost full. I like how the Hornady setup has the spring band holding the case in the shell plate and it appears to index smoother. On my 650, the brass is loose and shakes a bit. Combine that with some sudden movements and you have powder everywhere.

The info on the case feeder caliber conversions is kinda disappointing. I was hoping for something quicker and easier.

Again guys, thanks so much for all the links and such!

Eric

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still get some spillage on my LNL. I'm loading a 38TJ case with 7.6ish of 7625. It spills as the shell plate snaps into the next detent. I think maybe a little less than my Dillon SDB. In fact, the only reason I've considered trying AutoComp powder is to stop the spillage.

I really like the spring case retention better then the buttons. Sure, they get chewed up over time. However, it is a lot easier to get he cases in/out as needed. I hated the button systems on my SDB.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far the answer to the powder spillage problem for me has been to stick my fingertip over the mouth of the case before the shell plate snaps to the next position. And since there is actually enough room to do this, it's just become a part of my reloading motion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

As a person who loves the Hornady L-N-L, I would have to ask why you want to go from a 650 to a Hornady.

The advantages of the Hornady, to me, was that all case and bullet handling was done with my left hand and the seating station is right under my eyes so I can see the powder level in the case, along with less expensive and faster caliber conversion. I like to use an RCBS Lock-Out die in station 3, unless I use an expander die in station 2 and powder charging in station 3.

If you have the case feeder for the 650, then that eliminates the hassle of feeding the empty case with the right hand to the station at the right rear of the press. That just leaves the benefit of being easily able to see the powder level prior to bullet seating. My L-N-L did not come with any way to determine the number of primers remaining and the only problem I ever had was that I discovered I was out of primers because the very last primer just would not feed into the primer slide.

I have been told that the Hornady now comes with a plastic rod. If it didn't, I would get one of Dillon's plastic rods.

As far as I know, Hornady does not have a primer warning like Dillon.

If I had the 650 with a case feeder that worked, I would be happy and not consider the Hornady, unless you need the speed and lower cost of caliber conversion on the Hornady.

Where I would go is to the 1050 (but that caliber conversion and time of conversion is even more expensive).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...