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Henning Trigger Pin Nut


Jeff686

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Today, I lost my 2nd nut from the Henning trigger pin!

The first one had blue loctite on it.

The second one had red loctite!

I thought I knew how to use loctite! I even use the 'loctite prep' liquid. Maybe I'm being too careful about it. I was trying to use is sparingly, keeping it only on the threads. I worried about getting it into the trigger.

Next time, I guess I'll have to use a bit more. Maybe even loctite the nut to the gun, as well as the threads.

Any advice?

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Timely post... I lost another during practice today, Red loctite!!!! I just ordered a couple more spares from Henning. I think the loctite fails because it's such a small part with little surface area. Luckily the trigger pin tends to stay in so the risk of the trigger falling loose is slim.

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Well that sucks. Not sure why it's happening to you. The frames may vary a little in how tight the pin sits in the frame. If it's tight it probably doesn't rotate as much as so doesn't cause the nut to get unscrewed.

I have a few guns I don't use anything as they don't rotate or unscrew. On my main gun right now I do use red loctite. On the left side of my gun I use skateboard tape which I in the last match put over the nut so it would fall out if it were to unscrew accidentally. However.. the screw is probably the problem/cause so you may want to try to find a way to stop the screw from moving out on the right side if you can.

Or use stronger loctite maybe ? It's not been a great problem for me, but every gun varies a little in dimensions and I understand how annoying losing the nut can be.

If anyone has a better idea for a pin/nut that is "as easy" to implement as the nut/screw system please let me know. It's not the cleanest way to do it, but it seems to be on of the better ways to be able to dis/assemble the trigger system and have a solid pin for a more accurate trigger.

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Henning, I plan to go the red loctite route again but this time will have tape over the nut and the head of the screw. If it comes loose the nut won't fall to the ground and the screw/pin will be unable to back out!! I think short of drilling a pretty small hole to pin the nut / screw together this is the best bet. Still think it's a great improvement over stock!!!

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I think Leo has it right.

When the trigger is pressed the pin may be rotating a little. If the nut is tight to the frame then it will eventually unscrew. If you back it off the frame just a touch then that friction won't occur. Another option is to use a (very thin) washer between the frame and the nut so the nut/pin can both rotate against the washer. With so little surface area available, the loctite is not much use.

Edited by BritinUSA
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I had a couple of ideas, but I'm not sure if they would really work.

1. Make pin a little longer. Put a shoulder on the end, and use a smaller nut. The nut would tighten against the pin shoulder, not the frame. If the pin rotated, the nut would rotate (instead of loosen). Of course, the nut would have to be small enough to fit into that recess on the frame, and still rotate freely. Since that sounds impossibly small, this might not work. (edit: guess this is similar to Leo's solution, but has a bearing surface to tighten against, not just loctite to hold the nut).

post-985-016763400 1281378316_thumb.jpg

2. Make the pin a little longer, with a few more threads. Drill a small hole. Wire-tie so you don't loose the nut. It might loosen, but won't fall off.

post-985-061982600 1281378336_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jeff686
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Two options... use two nuts, just make them thinner and use one as a jam nut. It won't loosen then. The second option is to use a nylon lock not, that should do it too. You don't have to redesign for this one, it should be a simple matter to fix it.

JT

Edited by JThompson
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I use red lock tight on mine. The key is to clean both the nut and screw threads before applying the thread lock. Then don't over tighten the screw. If you over tighten the screw it will break the screw at the threads or the head. Been there done that.

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