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Glock 9mm Kaboom: Casing Or Out Of Battery?


InTheBlack

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Big bulge and blowout above the extractor groove. Professional reload by National Bullet. "FC" headstamp.

What's the normal maximum amount for the top of the barrel shroud to drop before the trigger won't go back?

The KaBoomed gun fired after pulling back and holding the slide in a place when the drop was about 1/16th inch. In comparision with several other used guns (but 40's) it was no posibble to stop the slide at that same point when pulling it back; it seemed to have either no movement or a sudden drop to maybe 3/16th inches below the top of the slide.

The frame has a crack on the right from the mag release forward. Glock wants $50 to replace it; what happened to the free replacement?

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The KaBoomed gun fired after pulling back and holding the slide in a place when the drop was about 1/16th inch.  In comparision with several other used guns (but 40's) it was no posibble to stop the slide at that same point when pulling it back; it seemed to have either no movement or a sudden drop to maybe 3/16th inches below the top of the slide.

You had the slide moved back from lockup? :o

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I had 2 cases blow out just infront of the extractor groove (toward the case mouth) last year. I found that my chamber had be "peeling" off bits of the copper plating on the bullets I was shooting and this was building up in rings. Eventually this build-up pushed the case mouth back far enough to unsupport the case and the resulting separation, blew the extractor and mag out of the gun. It also left a big gouge on the inside of the frame but it didn't crack the frame. I never found the extractor and the mag was junked.

Summary, check your chamber for any build-up that would push the case mouth back.

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Am I understanding you correctly? You pulled the slide out of battery, then pulled the trigger?

Virtually every auto will fire when slightly out of battery, just by virtue of having to ramp the feature that actuates the disconnector.

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BTW, $50 for a frame that retails for 3X of that seems like the Deal of the Century to me as Glock's warranty specifically excludes damage caused by reloaded ammunition (professional or otherwise). I'm sure that there's a substantial amount of ATF paperwork involved when Glock swaps serial numbers with a customer and they deserve to recover a portion of that.

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BTW, $50 for a frame that retails for 3X of that seems like the Deal of the Century to me as Glock's warranty specifically excludes damage caused by reloaded ammunition (professional or otherwise).

I agree that $50 to a replace a part damaged by engaging in a practice (firing reloads) that voids the warranty is a pretty sweet deal.

I'm sure that there's a substantial amount of ATF paperwork involved when Glock swaps serial numbers with a customer and they deserve to recover a portion of that.

My understanding is that when Glock replaces a trashed frame they don't change the serial number. They pop the serial number plate out of the old frame, feed it into the frame molding machine at the appropriate point in the cycle, and make a new frame around it, then return to the customer a brand new frame with the same old serial number.

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I'm sure that there's a substantial amount of ATF paperwork involved when Glock swaps serial numbers with a customer and they deserve to recover a portion of that.

My understanding is that when Glock replaces a trashed frame they don't change the serial number. They pop the serial number plate out of the old frame, feed it into the frame molding machine at the appropriate point in the cycle, and make a new frame around it, then return to the customer a brand new frame with the same old serial number.

That has not been my experience so far. I've met/known a couple guys to get replacement frames and they all had a new serial number. Maybe things are different now. Is Glock molding frames in the US now?

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No no no, nobody was loading a gun and holding the slide back. We were trying to see if the gun which had _already_ kaboomed would fire out of battery or if the case had just let go. Hence the question on what's "normal" for being slightly out of battery.

This is some guys' duty gun, so I doubt there is any plated ammo residue in the chamber, but I'll take a look if it hasn't been sent away yet. The barrel isn't obviously obstructed, but a squib could have been forced out. Ever see a squib cause casing blowout at the ramp? He _said_ the previous shot felt normal but I don't know his experience at _recognizing_ abnormalities.

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slightly off topic, i know of a smith here that chops at slides and barrels of glocks here in the philippines before having a dealer ship it to glock for warranty.

Even glock 19s were also chopped up. most of the kabooms here seem to happen when using reloads.

At glock forum, the glocks have a tendency to drop the striker even if the slide has not returned to battery.

Im not sure if glock has cured the problem.

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National Bullet = Remanufactured Ammo. Maybe even lead. (I know they sell/make a lot of lead bullets.)

They advertise "send us your brass".

I would look at them for your $50.

One of my reloaders (Home Ammo Direct) used to have a disclaimer on the front page to the effect: Glock Shooters Read This! It explained they would not be liable for damages in Glocks because of the unsupported barrels. FWIW: they reloaded .40 only in once fired brass they got from the local PD to make sure it wasn't old junk.

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Am I understanding you correctly?  You pulled the slide out of battery, then pulled the trigger?

Virtually every auto will fire when slightly out of battery, just by virtue of having to ramp the feature that actuates the disconnector.

========

BTW, $50 for a frame that retails for 3X of that seems like the Deal of the Century to me as Glock's warranty specifically excludes damage caused by reloaded ammunition (professional or otherwise).  I'm sure that there's a substantial amount of ATF paperwork involved when Glock swaps serial numbers with a customer and they deserve to recover a portion of that.

A *long* time ago, the instructor in the Glock armorer's course I took told us that retention of the original serial number on a frame, slide or barrel replacement was possible but took a much longer time than a "new number" replacement since it had to be ordered from Austria.

The last time I took the armorer's re-cert class, they told us Glock discountinued the same serial number program, and you always get a "replacement number". Replacement frames start are of the form G###, slides of the form S#### and barrels of the form L#### (not sure if it's always 4 digits, but it's always a single letter followed by digits) Since all Glock serial number start with three letters (or 2 for very early production), this makes it very easy to tell if a mismatched Glock has a factory replacement barrel/frame/slide of a mismatched part from another gun.

As to ATF paperwork - there is nothing special; just the usual accounting. Also, Federal Law allows not only "return for repair", but also permits the factory to replace the gun with a like replacement with a different number for shipment directly to the individual who sent it to the factory. But... many companies will insist all "different serial number replacements" go through the same FFL procedure as new guns.

I recently saw the locking lug sheer off a factory G23 barrel shot with reloads. A brief note to the factory along with the broken barrel resulted in a free replacement in less than one week. (a shooting buddy gave the barrel and asked me to write the letter since he figured they might be more willing to send a part to someone with the factory cert.)

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Could somebody explain why Glock is using unsupported barrels in the first place. If I'm not mistaken most of the after market barrels are fully supported and don't seem to suffer from the Kaboom problem, or at least I don't know of one, and I have seen two Glocks go Kaboom with factory unsupported barrels.

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Could somebody explain why Glock is using unsupported barrels in the first place.

9mm Glock barrels are fully supported. That is not the issue here.

The "unsupported" issue is with Glock 40 barrels - an issue which has been beat to death, resurrected, beaten to death again, then shot with 6000 rounds of ammo out of a Dillon Aero mini-gun just to ensure sufficient deceasedness.

Let us not dig up the body, lest it become the undead and kill us all. I beg of you.

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Saftey or Reliability!! :huh: I know which one I would choose. And I don't know that the fully supported barrels are any less reliable. One of the Glock barrels that suffered the Kaboom problem was shooting handloads but the other was shooting and all that it had ever shot was winchester white box.

Sorry Eric W I hadn't realized that this horse had been beaten to death several times. I with draw the question and will make my way to the search engine with head hanging low. :unsure:

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Sorry Shipster, it's nothing personal. There's just at least a dozen threads here on the issue and probably 2 billion of them on Glocktalk and every other handgun site.

What happened with the handgun ITB is talking about is a separate issue and he deserves to have his own thread for it.

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By the way InTheBlack,

One thing I've noticed on my Glock is that brass shavings tend to get everywhere. I've had them get embedded in the firing pin cups and gum that up, but I guess that brass could build up on the chamber shoulder as well.

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