New reloader question - 9mm

[CZinSC]

Title says it all. I'm brand new to reloading, just got a 550B. I'm trying to dial it in and have a few questions. As I'm new, I want to make sure my first trip out to the range to test my loads doesn't end in disaster.

Background: Using Win Small Primers, Titegroup, 9mm MG 124JHP. Using a CZ SP01 with 4.7in barrel

I'm still trying to make sure the OAL and crimp are right. I believe I have the crimp set OK, just enough to take the bell out from the seating die. My quesiton is OAL. I've seen other SP01 shooters stating 1.125 OAL with MG124JHP, and other data with no gun specified with OAL up to 1.135. When I seat the round at 1.117" the bullet will fit the Dillon case gauge fine, but it will not fall freely out of the barrel ( using barrel as case gauge ). If I go down to 1.116, it will fall free. Is that a safe OAL for this combo, was planning on using 4.0gr of TG. How low of an OAL can I go down to and be safe? Can I go down to 1.100? If I do, should I reduce the powder charge?

Thanks in advance for the help.

[Jman]

1.090" with 125 grain bullets according to the Hodgdon Load Data web site. http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

I generally load as long as possible. In my gun/magazine that comes in around 1.155-1.158. The "crimp" should be in the .375 to .377 area. I use my barrel chamber as a gauge.

[DWFAN]

.001 isnt going to make a TON of difference. If the CZ likes 1.116 then run 1.116.

Hodgdon says starting 4.1gr @ 1.09. I make minor with 4gr and have a good cusion with 4.1

Using their data as a guide, i would say you would be fine to chrono some loads at 4.0 @ 1.16 and work up to your desired PF.

[AZXDM]

I always use my barrel as the check for proper fit. Each gun is going to "like" it's own OAL. Sounds like you've found yours for the MGHP. If you switch bullets you may find the gun will want a different OAL even though you're shooting the same weight, same brand but different bullet type, ie FMJ or TC or a HP of a different brand. Hope this is making sense. Auto pistols headspace on the mouth of the case, the bullet forward of that in the chamber where if loaded too long could engage the rifling, you might have a tight chamber not allowing the cartridge to completely enter. Every gun is different. Stay close to published data, check three or four sources, load some at less than maximum, check for function and signs of high pressure and work up from there. All of my match ammo gets the barrel test. It needs to be 100% reliable. I'm slow enough as is without having to deal with ammo problems.

Hope this helps, Good luck.

Rick

[New4John]

check for signs of high pressure

OP, I hope you don't mind me adding to your question but I too have just started reloading in the past 2 weeks.

Besides obvious case splitting or exceeding maximum velocity on the chrono, what other signs am I looking for?

[Sarge]

check for signs of high pressure

OP, I hope you don't mind me adding to your question but I too have just started reloading in the past 2 weeks.

Besides obvious case splitting or exceeding maximum velocity on the chrono, what other signs am I looking for?

Primers might flatten out or show other signs like protrusions instead of indentations, etc.

[98sr20ve]

Get a feel for how the gun responds to normal ammo before you reload. Notice how it ejects. When using starting loads you will notice the ammo does not eject the same as with factory normal strength ammo. Thats your clue that you have a starting load. When using shorter then listed OAL data for your load you want to reduce the load so you still start with a starting load. If you use the lower charge but shorten the OAL it's no longer a starting load. All I am saying is reduce the load a little more. Try some and notice how the gun reacts. With out a chrono thats your only clue your starting low and actually working it up to what you want (a mid range load).

[CZinSC]

OP, I hope you don't mind me adding to your question but I too have just started reloading in the past 2 weeks.

Besides obvious case splitting or exceeding maximum velocity on the chrono, what other signs am I looking for?

I'm like a sponge trying to absorb everything so I'm glad you kept the thread alive asking another question. In fact, i was going to ask the same thing!

[DWFAN]

check for signs of high pressure

OP, I hope you don't mind me adding to your question but I too have just started reloading in the past 2 weeks.

Besides obvious case splitting or exceeding maximum velocity on the chrono, what other signs am I looking for?

Primers might flatten out or show other signs like protrusions instead of indentations, etc.

I'll add a couple that I use. Look for low standard deviation (consistency) not neccesarily a sign of high pressure, but some powders get weird and inconsistant at HIGH or LOW pressures, Its also a desireable trait of the load you pick.

I also check that my velocity numbers are inline with what the manuals say. Its just a second check that gives me a little more peace of mind that my load is ok. They dont have to match, but in the neighborhood is good. If Im off 200fps compared to two different sources, something is up.

[Paul Burtchell]

I had a full blown Matt Mink customized SPO1. It liked 4.0 of Titegroup loaded with a 124 MG CMJ to a 1.135 to 1.140 OAL.

[AZXDM]

I'll make just another point, you didn't specify if you were using your brass or range brass. If you pick up brass as I do, you'll be getting some that is bulged at the base more than normal. This will not allow the case to completely enter the chamber and it will vary depending on what gun it was fired from. Glocks do this as their design is different, 9mm that is loaded hot to make major power factor may also do this. Glocks are good guns and they are popular so you'll pick up some. Just be aware that a bulged case won't chamber the same and will stick. Most reloading dies do not resize the case far enough down to take the bulge out. You might make sure that your test cases are close to the same. Use your calipers just forward of the webbing to check. You're getting good advice from the guys, hang in there you'll get it.

Rick

[Hi-Power Jack]

Title says it all. I'm brand new to reloading, just got a 550B. I'm trying to dial it in and have a few questions. As I'm new, I want to make sure my first trip out to the range to test my loads doesn't end in disaster.

Background: Using Win Small Primers, Titegroup, 9mm MG 124JHP. Using a CZ SP01 with 4.7in barrel

I'm still trying to make sure the OAL and crimp are right. I believe I have the crimp set OK, just enough to take the bell out from the seating die. My quesiton is OAL. I've seen other SP01 shooters stating 1.125 OAL with MG124JHP, and other data with no gun specified with OAL up to 1.135. When I seat the round at 1.117" the bullet will fit the Dillon case gauge fine, but it will not fall freely out of the barrel ( using barrel as case gauge ). If I go down to 1.116, it will fall free. Is that a safe OAL for this combo, was planning on using 4.0gr of TG. How low of an OAL can I go down to and be safe? Can I go down to 1.100? If I do, should I reduce the powder charge?

Thanks in advance for the help.

The biggest problems you can run into as a new reloader:

1. dumping no powder in the case (bullet will get stuck in the barrel

and the next shot will ruin your day:((

2. measuring the powder charge incorrectly - you think you're loading

4.1 grains, and you're actually dumping much more or less

3. having your bullets slammed back into the case during the loading

cycle and ending up with shorter OAL.

4. incorrect or inconsistent chrono readings - thinking your ammo is

a 130 pf when it is actually a 140 or 120 pf.

All the other problems are smaller, and just need some experience.

Good luck.

Jack