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Dillon .40 cal dies(set of 3) & or GRX, U dies?


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Lookking to start loading for my Glock 27(baby).40cal... right now its stock, I like to join the USPSA AND WHO KNOWS BE THE 15+ TIME USPSAC like some guy name BRIAN ENOS! LOL!... i asked Mr.BE and he sent me here cuz he said that their are mor reloaders that might more on this cal then he does. as my reloading gets perfected in time I will join and start with my glock maybe ..... but if not I do have my eyes on a Kimber combat model in 40 or 45 acp not sure but it is for sure I will get the kimber to shoot in the USPSA later! so my question is What way do I go? do I get the regular Dillon dies (set of 3including the sizing die)from BE? or do I get seating & crimp die from BE? doi I get the U die & or the GRX die from him or some one else? I want to eliminate the GlockBuldge all togethr from what is said it will give problems cuz of the match barrels? or should I star with the dillon set to get started and understanding how to load this cal? I am a nebb and alll help will be needed and greatful!

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You will receive a million different suggestions about what it is that you "need to get" but you will soon find out that, what works for one person doesn't work for another.

I have a G-Rx and, for me, it just provides "peace of mind". I have a couple of guns that will digest any reloaded .40 ammo that I feed it yet, my wife's M&P40, is quite finicky about "bulged brass". Since I don't want her mad-dogging me because she happened to find that 0.000001% case that will fail to chamber during a Classifier run, I go through the trouble of, not only running all of my brass through the G-Rx, but also chamber checking all of her ammo.

In your case, would start with a set of Dillon dies and later, if a problem arises, I would worry about adding hardware to my reloading table.

More (and varying) opinions to follow... :cheers:

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You will receive a million different suggestions about what it is that you "need to get" but you will soon find out that, what works for one person doesn't work for another.

I have a G-Rx and, for me, it just provides "peace of mind". I have a couple of guns that will digest any reloaded .40 ammo that I feed it yet, my wife's M&P40, is quite finicky about "bulged brass". Since I don't want her mad-dogging me because she happened to find that 0.000001% case that will fail to chamber during a Classifier run, I go through the trouble of, not only running all of my brass through the G-Rx, but also chamber checking all of her ammo.

In your case, would start with a set of Dillon dies and later, if a problem arises, I would worry about adding hardware to my reloading table.

More (and varying) opinions to follow... :cheers:

What Dies do you use for seating and I take it, it gets a taper crimp(right)? also how far deep are you sapose to go on the seating?(might be a newb question a stupid one!) how do you know your grx worked and sized it properly? is it noticable to the eye? what did it cost you? (

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What Dies do you use for seating and I take it, it gets a taper crimp(right)? also how far deep are you sapose to go on the seating?(might be a newb question a stupid one!) how do you know your grx worked and sized it properly? is it noticable to the eye? what did it cost you? (

I use the G-Rx in a separate single stage loader and a set of Dillon dies in my 550B. The Dillon 550 has four stations: 1)depriming/resizing, 2)belling/powder through die, 3) seating die and, 4) crimp die.

I load my wife's minor 40 ammo to an OAL of 1.135" and, when I shoot Single Stack major, I load it with an OAL of 1.190". Somewhere between 1.125" and 1.135" seems to be the most common OAL that most shooter end up with. Your choice of OAL may vary with your pistol's chamber and magazine size but, before you decide on any specific OAL, make sure to cross reference loading data with at least two different loading books.

There are two versions of the Redding G-Rx; one has a carbide liner and the other one doesn't. The carbide die will be a bit more expensive but more resistant to scratches and, in my opinion, well worth the money. I have the non-carbide version and I think I paid about $30 (but I really don't remember; I have had mine for a while).

I cannot easily see the sizing difference with the naked eye but my calipers read that the resized cases are 0.001" smaller than the non-resized (0.419" vs 0.420). This may not seem like much but it is all that you will need to bring "Glocked" brass back to spec.

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single stage loader is that another press? if so what press & how much? can i just get another seperate tool head? what is the meaning of Minor & Major? and if most shooters OAL is 1.125 - 1.135 why is your OAL 1.190? SORRY AGAIN FOR THE NEWB QUESTIONS!

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I think nominal OAL for ,40 is 1.135(i dont have my book in front of me, I load both long(for my limited gun) and short(for my Glock and springfield P-9) and have had NO probs with any ofthe dies ive worked with, Glocked brass or no??? now that i typethis, im gonna have probs right?? hehehe case guages are your friend, past that, use the barrel of your gun, roughly...if the loaded round drops in and is a lil below flush ofthe barrles, hood, your golden(would prefer a check with calipers and case guage)

lee single stage press's can be had for next to nothing if you wanna de-buldge your brass in a separate process away fromthe progressive

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single stage loader is that another press? if so what press & how much? can i just get another seperate tool head? what is the meaning of Minor & Major? and if most shooters OAL is 1.125 - 1.135 why is your OAL 1.190? SORRY AGAIN FOR THE NEWB QUESTIONS!

A single stage press is a whole separate press where, with each stroke of the handle, you are only working one case into one die. I use an RCBS Rock Chucker but there are many options in the market. The price will vary between $25 (for a used press) to about $300 (for a Foster press). IIRC the Rock Chucker runs about $130 new.

I don't think that you can run the G-Rx die in a progressive press but I have heard that Redding may be working in an extra part that may change this. I don't know if this is accurate nor do I have any more details but I am sure that another member will chime in an enlighten us both about this.

Major and Minor are Power Factors; a scoring system for gun games such as USPSA. It is calculated by multiplying the weight of the bullet by the speed at which it travels through a chronograph. 125,000PF to 164,999PF is Minor; anything above 165,000PF is Mayor.

I use an OAL of 1.190" in Major because I run 10mm magazines in my 40 1911 and the longer OAL helps to ensure good round feeding. This has to do both with the angle of the pistol's ramp and also helps keep the case pressure levels lower than a shorter OAL.

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For small quantity reloading, a Lee Turret is a good place to start. Even when you switch to a progressive, you will still find it useful so your money won't be wasted.

If you are going to be loading .40, a EGW "U" die and a set of Lee carbide dies are a good place to start. The Lee dies are relatively inexpensive and if you wear them out after a few years, you can upgrade later.

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Wait to find the the Lee Single stage on sale. It's 27.99 but if you wait you should be able to get it for less. By it with Cabela's points so you can say it was free.

sound like a good idea but wouldnt it be better to get an extra tool head for my 550 and run em? 7 I bcan use my Cabelas bux on other things?

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single stage loader is that another press? if so what press & how much? can i just get another seperate tool head? what is the meaning of Minor & Major? and if most shooters OAL is 1.125 - 1.135 why is your OAL 1.190? SORRY AGAIN FOR THE NEWB QUESTIONS!

A single stage press is a whole separate press where, with each stroke of the handle, you are only working one case into one die. I use an RCBS Rock Chucker but there are many options in the market. The price will vary between $25 (for a used press) to about $300 (for a Foster press). IIRC the Rock Chucker runs about $130 new.

I don't think that you can run the G-Rx die in a progressive press but I have heard that Redding may be working in an extra part that may change this. I don't know if this is accurate nor do I have any more details but I am sure that another member will chime in an enlighten us both about this.

Major and Minor are Power Factors; a scoring system for gun games such as USPSA. It is calculated by multiplying the weight of the bullet by the speed at which it travels through a chronograph. 125,000PF to 164,999PF is Minor; anything above 165,000PF is Mayor.

I use an OAL of 1.190" in Major because I run 10mm magazines in my 40 1911 and the longer OAL helps to ensure good round feeding. This has to do both with the angle of the pistol's ramp and also helps keep the case pressure levels lower than a shorter OAL.

Thanks for schooling me on the OAL,Major & Minor (everyone)! what model is that lee? I cant find a place to order the G-RX(when I decide to buy!) I went on EGW found the U-die 29.00 bux not bad! what do you know about this?

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I use the Lee 4-die set (which includes the Factory Crimp Die, FCD) for 40. Glock Grand Master. Runs fine in my KKM barrel as well.

Can I pick thies dies @ Cabelas? how long have you had em(durable)? what are the going for? and you got no "GlockBuldge problems? they sound good whats the set?

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For small quantity reloading, a Lee Turret is a good place to start. Even when you switch to a progressive, you will still find it useful so your money won't be wasted.

If you are going to be loading .40, a EGW "U" die and a set of Lee carbide dies are a good place to start. The Lee dies are relatively inexpensive and if you wear them out after a few years, you can upgrade later.

thats the thing I got my 550B from Be and now I know what a attic feels like cuz all I wonna do is load for my DE.44 mag! what if I go with the U die and an extra toolhead withdillon dies? Can You load rifal on this lee press?

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speaking of addictions this forum is the only thing that can keep my mind off reloading, AS i take notes from all who comment on this and other post I put up! ! !almost!! My wife says all i do is work in "THE LAB" LOL....

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I use the Lee 4-die set (which includes the Factory Crimp Die, FCD) for 40. Glock Grand Master. Runs fine in my KKM barrel as well.

Start here. Lee dies will do the job for 99% of us. Don't make it harder than it needs to be.

Edited by wide45
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I cant find a place to order the G-RX(when I decide to buy!) I went on EGW found the U-die 29.00 bux not bad! what do you know about this?

The EGW die is manufactured by Lee and it is very similar to the Lee U (undersized) die. Many reloaders have had great success with it and speak very highly about it. I had one which, after several thousand rounds, the carbide insert broke and the folks at EGW refused to replace it. I had to contact Lee directly and they agreed to replace it with their "U" die (which is slightly different to the EGW). I am sad to say that I was not 100% pleased with the response I received from EGW; I would have expected them to stand behind their product and offer a better guarantee but, at least Lee was willing to extend their warranty to the EGW product.

This is a photo of the broken die:

19_05_11_09_9_21_26.jpeg

If you choose to purchase the G-Rx, you can find it through Cabela's or Midway (amongst other suppliers). http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=231187&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=9315

and you got no "GlockBuldge problems? they sound good whats the set?

The Lee dies are certainly a good choice. The one the Flex is talking about are called the "Deluxe Set" and it includes the Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) which is a good alternative to help minimize/remove the so-called "Glock Bulge". http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=froogle&id=0012803214611a&navCount=4&podId=0012803&parentId=&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=9IS&rid=&parentType=&indexId=cat20847&hasJS=true

My wife says all i do is work in "THE LAB" LOL....

I suffer from the same "ailment". For me, reloading is ALMOST as addictive as shooting! :roflol:

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yikes! Thats gonna leave a mark @ Soto! Im just gonna get Dillon Dies from our host BE and the G-RX from midwest! thay say "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!" Do you think that would be the case here? and would I have to get a single stage loader or would I be able to run it with my other dillon dies - the seating? or can I run it off a differnt tool head all by its self then run it through my dillon dies?

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You will need a single stage press for the the Grx, Lee has a press for $21.00 that will do the job. I have put about 10K rounds thru my GRX it cures the fat boy problem. I sold my U-Die before it broke, and after it only helped some.

When it comes to Die, I have used Dillon, Lee, Hornady, and Redding. I rank them as follows best to worst.

1. Redding

2. Hornady

3. Dillon

4. Lee

Any of them will do the job. If you are loading Lead or Moly bullets get the taper crimp die instead of the FCD. While I don't like the FCD it does ok on Jacketed bullets.

A squirt of one shot on the brass and all of these die perform about the same, without lube the Hornady and Redding are much easier on the arm.

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In my 550B, I've had absolutely no problems with bulged brass just using the Dillon dies and the Lee Factory Crimp die. Later I did replace the Dillon seating die with a nice-to-have—the Redding Competition Seating die—just for ease in shifting settings between various bullets and perhaps a little more precision in seating.

Curtis

Edited: 'cause I hate tipos typos!

Edited by BayouSlide
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i have dillon XL650 and here is my set up

station

1- EGW U-die $30

2- Powder die/funnel

3- Powder check

4- Redding Competition Seater Die $75

5- Lee FCD $20

5,500 rounds so far and all of it passed case gauge and chambered on actual barrel. and all of that 5,500 brass are range brass, either once fired or god knows how many times it has been reloaded.. yep, im cheap :roflol:

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Thanks for the replys guys,sorry took to long to reply was reading a lotta books on this and picked up a new reloading handbook "Hornady 7th Edition" this is a very detail handbook with pictures and lotta good info for a Newb like myself I recommend it even if your notta Newb.I also was on the net on Cabela's web page and found the "GRX Resizing Die with the shell holder push rod.Do I have to use thepush rod? does Dillon or Reeding not make a adaptor for the GRX so I can use it in my 550B press? I also see that alot of you have diffrent crimp or taper die.Do all dillon sets come with (FCD)? and why do you have different seating Dies? Are u getting better accurate reloads or does it make the job of reloading eazyer? these might be stupid questions! incase anyone is looking here is the item# for the Reeding's GRX Sizing Die: @ cabela's #2UG-217201, PRICE IS $34.99 ... REEDING DIE ACCESSORY (BOTTLE ADAPTOR) ITEM# 2UG-217202 $6.99-$9.99... BUT IM SURE YOU PROS DONT NEED IT! LOL....

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i may have missed it but what kind of reloader or press do you have in mind to use? start from there first then figure out the die-set you want to use.

you have dillon, hornady, lee, lyman etc to choose from. if you worry about the glocked brass, use U-dies for it. for 40S&W its a well known issue (i dont other caliber so i dont know for other calibers). i dont have experience with GRx and most people if not all use GRx on single stage press. i dont know why. for U-die, it will be on station 1.

i dont have experience with 3-set dies from Dillon, Lee, or Redding. Using U-die is more peace of mind. For the Redding competition die, its for easier dialing in especially when you are on the process of developing load. my set-up is on post #22, some regard it as the Dream Set. i regard as the set that i didnt have any problem with it or have replaced any of it.

oh, and buy at least 2 reference manual. Hornady and Lyman if you ask. i bought those 2, read it, then bought my press.

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i may have missed it but what kind of reloader or press do you have in mind to use? start from there first then figure out the die-set you want to use.

you have dillon, hornady, lee, lyman etc to choose from. if you worry about the glocked brass, use U-dies for it. for 40S&W its a well known issue (i dont other caliber so i dont know for other calibers). i dont have experience with GRx and most people if not all use GRx on single stage press. i dont know why. for U-die, it will be on station 1.

i dont have experience with 3-set dies from Dillon, Lee, or Redding. Using U-die is more peace of mind. For the Redding competition die, its for easier dialing in especially when you are on the process of developing load. my set-up is on post #22, some regard it as the Dream Set. i regard as the set that i didnt have any problem with it or have replaced any of it.

oh, and buy at least 2 reference manual. Hornady and Lyman if you ask. i bought those 2, read it, then bought my press.

I bought thE Dillon RL550B,I CURRENTLY HAVE LOADED 500rnd for my Desert Eagle .44Mag and I got an itch to reload more since I been going to the range I would grab as much brass as I can in different calibers and I already own a .40 cal Glock I wonna load for, and like you I wont a peace of mind when I reload. my glock is factory but since I plan on shooting in the USPSA I got my eyes on a Kimber 1911 but not sure if I wonna go in a 45ACP with that and just swop out the barrel to wolf for my glock! Y do the call you dial the dream set ? I havent bought my dies yet cuz I like to get my info that i need befor I buy! i do have my 44 Magnum dies from Dillon! and they work and are se good still changing it around to see whats best for my eagle!

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