Jack Suber Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Howdy. I bought a 1050 from a friend this weekend (I have been using a 550 for years). It is an older model but it is in pristine condition. Anyway, the press is set-up for 38 Super and I only shoot 40. So, I bought the caliber conversion for 40 cal. The manual has a step by step of how to change the shell plate, toolhead, etc. It is assuming that when you make this change you are also changing primer size. The manual goes through the process of disassembling the primer system in order to change the size; implying that all of this is necessary in order to change the toolhead and shellplate. My question is, is it necessary to disassemble the primer system to change the shell plate, if I am not changing the primer size? I understand the process but I would rather not disassemble something if it did not need it. Do any of you 1050 users have more than one toolhead set-up for the same caliber (i.e. different loads). It does not appear that changing only the toolhead is that much of a job. Is it? Again this is an older 1050 bought in 1993 (the manual doesn;t even list 40 Cal). But, it came with all of the paperwork, packaging, etc. The guy that owned it took fantastic care of it. I would appreciate any ideas, feedback, etc. regarding changing the caliber. I plan on doing that this evening. Think I will take digital pictures of everything before I take it apart. Thanks and take care. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Nope, no need to disassemble the priming system to get the toolhead or shellplate off and back on again. You do need to either carefully wiggle the toolhead out from under the primer-actuator-cam-guide-bolt or whatever the official name of that thing that rides the curved slot is called, or remove that bolt first. Changing the toolhead is pretty easy if you've got the right size socket on an extender bar-- undo the main bolt, wiggle out the toolhead, wiggle in the new one, bolt it back on (retighten the bolt with the shellplate full of cases). You can also safely ditch the anti-short-stroke-ratchet parts while you're back there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Jack, What Shred said... Leo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Suber Posted January 20, 2004 Author Share Posted January 20, 2004 Thanks Shred and L9X25, I looked at the schematics and was hoping I would be able to get away with that. Should be pretty cut and dry. The "Anti-Short Stroke" mechanism has already been removed by the previous owner - he pointed that out to me. I am pretty excited about the machine. I hope to have things up and running tonight. Again, thanks and take care. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Jack, I was not trying to be a smart As_ ... I just typed you a long response detailing what you needed to do and saw that Shred had beaten me to the "add reply" key. I deleted my post out of frustration and not to seem redundant. I am a fairly new 1050 owner although I have been helping friends set up and convert their 1050's for many years. When I received mine I disassembled most of it to clean and convert it to my caliber so everything is still pretty fresh in my mind. It was a snap and I had it making perfect ammo within about an hour. I had also planned to remove the ratchet mechanism but realized that it really did not stop me from doing anything that I wanted to do. Also, my 10 year old likes to make ammo for me and, with the ratchet engaged, about the only thing he can do wrong is forget to put a projectile on the case and that is pretty easy mistake to spot. If you have any question feel free to ask and I will try to answer you ... although Shred types faster than I do! Leo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Spare tooheads is my vote, worth every penny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Suber Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 OK, Here's another question. I got the caliber conversion in OK, dies set, etc. Everything seems to operating fine, except the primer seating. My primers are coming out WAY to high. THe trouble shooter guide says that the cause could be a loose shell-plate (I don't think this is it because I have adjusted it several times according to the instructions). It references adjusting the seating punch - According to the instructions, the seating punch should be flush with its bushing (mine is). Should I adjust this? Can it be adjusted without removing the toolhead? The guide also states that part of the problem could be "Do Not remove rubber piece on primer slide." I have lloked at the slide, and mine doesn't have any rubber piece. I have also looked at the schematic diagram and cannot find any rubber piece (or other piece) attached to the primer slide. AM I missing something? I am planning to call Dillon in a while, but I was hoping one of y'all could help. L9X25 - I didn't think you were being a smart a**. Thanks for your help. Take care. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Call Dillon when you are at your press and they can help you better than we could try to explain it here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Bagnato Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Hey Jack, The rubber peice on the prime bar doesn't last long. I am not sure you need it. Mine broke off a while ago hasn't slowed me down. I don't have the manual handy. I will describe the best I can what to do. There is a rod on the right side of the tool head that comes down. That rod has an Allen head on top of it this controls the seating depth of the primer. Just turn it back a bit your primers won't seat as deeply or vise versa for deeper seating. I will try to locate the info in the manual for you. Unless you understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Jack, What Openshooter said. Loosen the allen head bolt (comes in from the side of the toolhead) that locks the rod that controls the primer seating depth. Since you are fairly sure the shellplate is properly adjusted, screwing down the rod in the toolhead that controls the primer seating depth (I think it's right between the re-sizing and swaging dies) will seat the primers deeper. And of course make sure you are consistently stroking the handle all the way to the bottom of its travel each time. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Suber Posted January 22, 2004 Author Share Posted January 22, 2004 Everyone, I am in business! After talking to Dillon, I found the adjustment rod on the toolhead. The schematic in the manual through me off a bit. That and the fact that I have been using a 550 for years, I never thought the primer seating depth adjustment would be on the toolhead and not the base. Thanks for all of your help. BTW, this machine is the awesome! I wish I had one back when I was having shoulder problems. The 1050 is a breeze! take care. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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