Taurus 1911 - Which parrts to replace?

[Pro2AInPA]

So here's the deal. I own a Taurus PT1911 that I bought for an insane price used from a guy who was desperate for cash.

I want to use it to shoot some single stack in USPSA.

I've put a few hundred rounds through it with no issues. But, I like to be pro-active. I'm wondering which parts you guys would recommend I have replaced premptively BEFORE they fail.

The list I came up with:

Hammer

Sear

Sear spring

Hammer strut

Thumb safety (replace ambi with non-ambi)

I'm happy with the trigger pull so I don't want to change that, I just want to replace the MIM parts that might fail on me with quality parts.

[sfinney]

Slide stop?

[sperman]

I put thousands of rounds through mine without incident. The only thing I replaced was the slide stop and the thumb safety (kept falling out.) I also replaced the hammer, but that was just to get rid of the lock.

[Pro2AInPA]

What issues did you guys have with the slide stop?

[Seth]

If you ask enough people, you'll only keep the frame and slide.

Shoot it until it breaks, imo. MIM is a very consistent, reliable process that works. Is it like tool steel? Of course not. But the failure rate is pretty darn low.

If you MUST replace them... then its 100% of the ignition parts, the pins, extractor, firing pin, and firing pin stop and slide stop. Look at the parts for dots and seams. A dot would show where it was removed from the mold. A seam shows the edge of the casting container.

[RussB]

So here's the deal. I own a Taurus PT1911 that I bought for an insane price used from a guy who was desperate for cash.

I want to use it to shoot some single stack in USPSA.

I've put a few hundred rounds through it with no issues. But, I like to be pro-active. I'm wondering which parts you guys would recommend I have replaced premptively BEFORE they fail.

The list I came up with:

Hammer

Sear

Sear spring

Hammer strut

Thumb safety (replace ambi with non-ambi)

I'm happy with the trigger pull so I don't want to change that, I just want to replace the MIM parts that might fail on me with quality parts.

The hammer, sear and sear spring are half of the "trigger" that you're happy with. Add the disconnector, trigger and mainspring to replace all the ignition components.

Look at the parts for dots and seams. A dot would show where it was removed from the mold. A seam shows the edge of the casting container.

Seth, the dots are where the molten metal is injected into the mold cavity. It's called the sprue. The "casting container" is the mold.

MIM parts are made from tool steels. It's just a different process.

For the record, before MIM was created, Parts that were forged and machined broke. Colt slide stops were notorious for this.

[Seth]

Look at the parts for dots and seams. A dot would show where it was removed from the mold. A seam shows the edge of the casting container.

Seth, the dots are where the molten metal is injected into the mold cavity. It's called the sprue. The "casting container" is the mold.

MIM parts are made from tool steels. It's just a different process.

For the record, before MIM was created, Parts that were forged and machined broke. Colt slide stops were notorious for this.

Thanks for clarifying. I couldn't for the life of me remember the word Sprue!

[RussB]

I've spent a significant amount of time in my career as a plastic injection moldmaker.

[lmlong]

I have been through a couple of matches and many range trips with my PT1911. No problems so far except the ambi-safety was wanting to come apart. Until I decide which safety I want I just bent the tabs together and reassembled and have had no further problems. I ordered a new barrel bushing just because it seemed kind of sloppy but I think it probably still shoots better than me.

Larry

[ParaGunner]

Why try and fix what's not broke? Spend your money on ammo.

[buckaroo45]

I replaced the safety and the mags with Wilson Combat pieces. No further problems.

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Ah that I were young enough to have focus now that I see the use of it. - Me