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Sear questions


JeffCSR

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Is the design of this sear (M&P) necessary that it "cocks" the striker more when you pull the trigger that last little bit or is it meant to just increase the trigger pull weight? I'm waiting for an APEX sear to be available and looking at the factory part it seems there's a lot of positive engagement at the tip of the sear.

Second question, is the factory part durable enough to do a trigger job to? I'm assuming since it's MIM that it's not just surface hardened?

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Warning! WAG! Warning!

My guess is that it does that so that the gun can technically be called double action, something I've heard (on the interweb, no less, so it *must* be true) that is required by some departments.

The Apex part does not seem to do this and it feels SO much better.

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Is the design of this sear (M&P) necessary that it "cocks" the striker more when you pull the trigger that last little bit or is it meant to just increase the trigger pull weight? I'm waiting for an APEX sear to be available and looking at the factory part it seems there's a lot of positive engagement at the tip of the sear.

Second question, is the factory part durable enough to do a trigger job to? I'm assuming since it's MIM that it's not just surface hardened?

It cams back the striker an additional .018". IMO it's the consequence of the geometry of the pivoting sear/striker tab rather than an intended effort to make it DAO. Any claim to it being DAO more than likely involves some IPSC lawyering. If you go back to when the XD came on the scene you'll see what I mean. XD shooters couldn't compete head to head against Glock shooters in production class. The Springfield XD which is marketed as a single action does the same thing except it's about .012" in that case.

Edited by ElrodCod
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Second question, is the factory part durable enough to do a trigger job to? I'm assuming since it's MIM that it's not just surface hardened?

I think the Burwell trigger job uses the OEM sear. I polished my factory sear a little when the APEX didn't work for me. I have an M&P 45 and I could get the back of the trigger shoe to touch the trigger stop on the receiver without breaking the shot. :surprise: This was more of an issue with the 45 models of M&P. APEX was going to make a sear specifically for the 45s.

I ended up selling my APEX. Like I said... I polished my oem part a little and the rest of the trigger action pretty much broke in and became acceptable after 500 rounds.

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The positive sear engagement probably adds a little bit of safety to the trigger. It requires a little more force to get the trigger mechanism moving and may provide a little margin of safety against an AD due to slightly bumping the trigger. It does add considerably to the trigger pull.

I did the DIY trigger job on a couple of M&P’s, using the OEM sear, with very good results. I did remove all of the positive engagement, careful not to end up negative, and thinned the sear a few thousandths. Went from a 7~8 pound to a pretty clean 3 pound with just a tiny bit of over travel. It’s actually pretty easy, just don’t get in a hurry.

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I did the DIY Burwell trigger to my 9L using the factory sear. Nearly all the concave contour (or positive engagement as you referred to it) on the back of the sear is gone.

Pull is a butter smooth 4lb 10oz, and most everyone who tries it guesses 3 pounds. Very happy with the result.

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