JeffCSR

Stupid question probably, I know the mag catch is different, but do the magazines from a Para P14 or an S_I fit in a H&K USP45 fullsize? Anyone know? TIA

I'm curious about plus capacity kits for USP 45 12rd mags. Are there any that are preferred/better by you guys? I'm guessing that people here would have more experience with multiple different makers. TIA, Jeff

On a USP 45 full size does a reduced weight hammer spring of 12lb give reliable ignition on all commercial ammo? I assume since makes 12lb and 10lb springs that the 12lb works reliably, and I'd assume the 10lb only works on certain primers? TIA, Jeff

I found the difference in the S & H trigger bars. The loop of the H trigger bar is taller and steeper than the angle of the S trigger bar. That's going off the photos on MGW's website.

Thanks for the input guys, I smoothed it out with a stone as suggested.

This is my locking block 9mm CORE 5" Should the MIM injection 'spot' protrude as mine does? Could it interfere with the barrel camming down far enough? I've seen some pics where they look like it's flush and MidwestGunworks photo shows it being recessed. TIA This is the stock photo on MidwestGunworks site

Following the old Burwell trigger job, how do factory sears hold up as far as re profiling where they engage the striker? Are they of equal hardness throughout or case hardened to a particular depth? This is a 9mm Pro series BTW I ask here because you guys would be the ones who shoot the most

Just ordered from GregCotes 9mm 17rd Genuine for $25.95 + shipping

Is the design of this sear (M&P) necessary that it "cocks" the striker more when you pull the trigger that last little bit or is it meant to just increase the trigger pull weight? I'm waiting for an APEX sear to be available and looking at the factory part it seems there's a lot of positive engagement at the tip of the sear. Second question, is the factory part durable enough to do a trigger job to? I'm assuming since it's MIM that it's not just surface hardened?

MY APOLOGIES I PLACED THIS IN THE WRONG FORUM This is the load I started using in 1911s, (200gr LSWC over 4.0gr Red Dot) will it work in a M&P 45 Full size with factory springs? Or should I stick to a hotter 230gr Ball load for this gun? Curious because I want to start reloading again and this time I'd be using the M&P 45 almost exclusively. TIA

Would you guys recommend a Cominolli Frame Saver in an alloy framed 1911?

How would you guys blend a magwell to an aluminum framed pistol? I have a Lightweight Springfield Operator and I want to install an EGW Drop-in Magwell. I'm not sure how best to blend it. Where you would blend it properly with a steel frame I'm hesitant not to do the same because I'd cut thru the anodizing. Leaving it stock, unblended, is better than nothing but I think I should at least blend the magwell to match the frame. Opinions?

My only suggestion is to check the feed lips. I've got many 'old / high use' Beretta mags that have the rear corners of the feed lips cracked... All Beretta Brand mags.

New or not they do crack eventually. It's not that big a deal. Just replace it when it happens. The newer slide though definately is a must, the old one(very unlikely that anyone still has it) is the one that was having all the problems. It wasn't the 'old style' slide that was a problem, it was the French manufactured slide blanks that used Tellurium in the alloy that was the problem. The standard F slides are still in use by many of us.

Why? Good Question, my tendinitis has been affecting my shooting, what's wrong with the topic? I saw a Surgeon in July, went thru therapy and problem returned. I'm unable to take ibuprofen etc due to heart meds, any tips I find I think are helpful. Would be nice to home remedy if possible.