PCC-1 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I have been looking to try out the GP6 for several months and possibly transition from my M&P. I got one in the shop from a fellow shooter for some trigger work and really was not sure where to start. I have found limited traffic on the forum concerning transitions so I thought I would start this topic. I placed the order yesterday for the GP6, not the C model, but the plain. I ordered it from Dawson so its coming with FO front and Plain target rear (non adjustable I presume). I shot one of these last year at the National Steel Championships in Titusville FL and I can remember that the DA was not quite what I was hoping for. I plan on tweaking it to my liking once it arrives and I will document as much as possible. I'm not sure that I will totally put down the M&P just yet... We shall see what happens.... Any one with any experience in smithing on these triggers please contact me. Gonna need a little help. Yes I know that some people think the DA is fine just like it is from the box... I have already heard that so there is no need to post it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve J Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 We had a very experienced shooter lose control of the hammer while manually lowering it to make the pistol safe during LAMR the other day. AD and DQ. Something to keep in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sigfla Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Brad look for the model it copies (K100?) and see if you can find anything on the net about it. I heard plenty of Europeans are using it so there must be some info on trigger work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Brad look for the model it copies (K100?) and see if you can find anything on the net about it. I heard plenty of Europeans are using it so there must be some info on trigger work. You may find many K100 owners cowering in fear. If they got the bitch back together, they likely won't repeat the process. The origional used two spring loaded detents in the steel frame insert to provide tension on the safety lever. They are a royal pain in the ass to re-install. The updated version moves those detents into the polymer frame as captive detents. As for the trigger pull weight, about the only means of lightening it will be to replace the factory mainspring, located within the hammer itself. It's a relatively short fat spring, so simply cutting a coil could be overkill. The double action pull has the trigger bar pulling the hammer notch forwards until the bar is forced to drop and release the notch. Other than the hammers sides and the crosspin that the sprint bear against, there isn't a lot of friction surface to be polished. The single action is very sweet as is, and other than a simple deburring, I doubt you'll find much to improve. I've got 4K or so on mine, with zero malfunctions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Thanks Cannuck223! That is exactly the kind of input i was hoping to find here! Is anyone making any after market springs or replacement parts that you know of? I have heard you can get some up there where you are but i don't think they are importable to the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Thanks Cannuck223! That is exactly the kind of input i was hoping to find here! Is anyone making any after market springs or replacement parts that you know of? I have heard you can get some up there where you are but i don't think they are importable to the US. I will double check with the Canadian importer, as I believe he MIGHT have sourced some parts direct from Grand Power. However, I asked Sean a few months back about the availability of spare parts like recoil springs, extractors, etc. At the time he said STI didn't have much available, but they were prepared to strip parts from live guns if needed. As far as I know, there are no specific aftermarket springs available. However, Grand Power is more of a designer than a manufacturer. FN Herstal supply the raw slide castings GP designed. CZUB machine the barrels. GP itself mold the frames and machine the frame inserts. I set mine up with the fiber optic front sight, Dynamic fixed rear, and the stainless big button mag release. Don't let the other comments about the ND while dropping the hammer phase you. It's never happened to me yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 Thanks Dave!!! Great information! As far as the other comments... i take everything with a grain of salt..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 USP tracking says the new GP6 should be at the shop on Tuesday... was hoping it would make it here today so i could test it out tomorrow... oh well.. Tuesday it is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 Just got the GP6 in my hands... this is going to be interesting. The DA trigger is long... i mean really loooong... its like 686 long.... here we go!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 Just got the GP6 in my hands... this is going to be interesting. The DA trigger is long... i mean really loooong... its like 686 long.... here we go!!! You will quickly get used to it. At least I did. I just practice prepping the trigger while I have my sights on the target and am moving the gun into full extention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 Took the GP6 to the range yesterday after adding some super grip goop... the grip was a little to slick for my liking. Worked on getting used to the DA at distance. I loaded up 2 mags and proceeded to shoot my 10 inch Steel Challenge Plate at 45 yards DA only. The first mag was a perfect 16 out of 16. Needless to say i was extremely happy with the out of the box accuracy results. I did a few transition drills and just spent some time getting a feel for the trigger. There has got to be a way to lighten up the DA pull... there is way too much tension on that spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 What i need is an armorers manual or someone that can give me the low down on breaking the gun down past a simple field strip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 After shooting the GP6 for a while i have figured on thing out pretty quick... It is best to stage the hammer in the "Half Cock" safety position when shooting the first shot DA. There is less travel, less resistance and no click jumps in the trigger squeeze itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 After shooting the GP6 for a while i have figured on thing out pretty quick... It is best to stage the hammer in the "Half Cock" safety position when shooting the first shot DA. There is less travel, less resistance and no click jumps in the trigger squeeze itself. The rulebook says the hammer must be "fully down." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 After shooting the GP6 for a while i have figured on thing out pretty quick... It is best to stage the hammer in the "Half Cock" safety position when shooting the first shot DA. There is less travel, less resistance and no click jumps in the trigger squeeze itself. The rulebook says the hammer must be "fully down." Please cite rule #. The only thing i can find is "Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal" I would think that the safe cock would suffice??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhop Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 (edited) "Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal" page 75 edit to add so if a glass of water it half empty it is consider fully empty Edited February 11, 2010 by mhop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 After shooting the GP6 for a while i have figured on thing out pretty quick... It is best to stage the hammer in the "Half Cock" safety position when shooting the first shot DA. There is less travel, less resistance and no click jumps in the trigger squeeze itself. The rulebook says the hammer must be "fully down." Please cite rule #. The only thing i can find is "Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal" I would think that the safe cock would suffice??? That's the correct rule. The half-cock is not fully decocked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 "Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal" page 75 edit to add so if a glass of water it half empty it is consider fully empty Ok I have read it and i agree with you 100%. Now here is my question to NROI. The user manual from my new GP6 says "...release the hammer slowly and gradually until it rests on the firing pin stop." it refers to this as "Safety Mode" If the rules require you to be hammer 100% down and not in "safety mode" and an accident happens, such as a dropped gun from the holster with an AD and injuries, are we opening ourselves up to any liability???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockeyfighter25 Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 "Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal" page 75 edit to add so if a glass of water it half empty it is consider fully empty Ok I have read it and i agree with you 100%. Now here is my question to NROI. The user manual from my new GP6 says "...release the hammer slowly and gradually until it rests on the firing pin stop." it refers to this as "Safety Mode" If the rules require you to be hammer 100% down and not in "safety mode" and an accident happens, such as a dropped gun from the holster with an AD and injuries, are we opening ourselves up to any liability???? I would ask the nroi because there was a ruling about how cz's that decock to half cock are allowed. http://www.uspsa.org/rules/nroi_rulings.php?action=edit&indx=30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhop Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 "Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal" page 75 edit to add so if a glass of water it half empty it is consider fully empty Ok I have read it and i agree with you 100%. Now here is my question to NROI. The user manual from my new GP6 says "...release the hammer slowly and gradually until it rests on the firing pin stop." it refers to this as "Safety Mode" If the rules require you to be hammer 100% down and not in "safety mode" and an accident happens, such as a dropped gun from the holster with an AD and injuries, are we opening ourselves up to any liability???? very good question i would ask nroi and see what they say but that makes sense to me about the safety mode Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 "Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal" page 75 edit to add so if a glass of water it half empty it is consider fully empty Ok I have read it and i agree with you 100%. Now here is my question to NROI. The user manual from my new GP6 says "...release the hammer slowly and gradually until it rests on the firing pin stop." it refers to this as "Safety Mode" If the rules require you to be hammer 100% down and not in "safety mode" and an accident happens, such as a dropped gun from the holster with an AD and injuries, are we opening ourselves up to any liability???? I don't have a GP6, but if it's anything like a 1911, resting against the firing pin stop is fully decocked. I don't see how it could be in a half cock position and touching the firing pin stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 OK back on topic... I finally got the time this morning to break it all the way down.. Nothing too overbearing once you figure out what comes from where and how it goes back as usual... I polished the hammer face, stoned and polished the sear and hammer marriage, polished the frame rails and replaced the hammer main spring with one i think will be a little lighter from my 1 million and 1 spring collection. I did not have time to polish the slide rail groves, but i need something to do next week... Got it all back together and going out to the range this afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Off topic... here is the response i got back from Amidon and the question i posed to NROI. If safe mode makes the first shot double action, it will be in line of the purpose of the ruling, as single action only is not allowed in Production. John From: B.D. Martin [mailto:bmartin@pcctactical.com] Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 10:26 AM To: dnroi@uspsa.org Subject: "Safety Position"??? page 75 states for Production "Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal" Question: The Owners manual for the STI GP6 refers to a "Safety mode" where the hammer is not all the way down resting on the firing pin stop and not the firing pin itself. If we require a shooter to start from a 100% down postition and an accident occurs, such as a dropped gun with an AD and injuries, are we opening ourselves up for legal liability by not allowing him to have his gun in "safety mode" as per the manufacturer? The GP6 does not have a decocker as in the CZ noted above and must be manually brought down. The safety mode is what most people i beleive call "half cock" or "safe cock". Do we allow them to have the gun in "safety mode" or do we force them to have it "totally down" unless that is where the decocker brings it to??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCC-1 Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 I got to shoot the GP6 in a local match today... not bad... but not setting the world on fire either. I shot my M&P in production and the GP6 as a second gun in Limited Minor. I had 3 stovepipes today with the GP6 but i'm going to attribute that to my fault. I forgot the ammo that i had chrono'ed for the 4.5 inch GP6 and used some of the ammo from the 5in M&P. Most likely was not even making minor. I don't think there was enough energy to properly cycle the action. I do need to go back and put some more rounds on paper and adjust the sights as they seem a little off at anything over 25 yards. Hanging a little left. No issues with the SA or the DA. Nothing nothing noticeable have to check the times on the scores when they are posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I got to shoot the GP6 in a local match today... not bad... but not setting the world on fire either. I shot my M&P in production and the GP6 as a second gun in Limited Minor. I had 3 stovepipes today with the GP6 but i'm going to attribute that to my fault. I forgot the ammo that i had chrono'ed for the 4.5 inch GP6 and used some of the ammo from the 5in M&P. Most likely was not even making minor. I don't think there was enough energy to properly cycle the action. I do need to go back and put some more rounds on paper and adjust the sights as they seem a little off at anything over 25 yards. Hanging a little left. No issues with the SA or the DA. Nothing nothing noticeable have to check the times on the scores when they are posted. I have had 2 failures in total. One the day I bought it, because it was dry, and the second one because I wanted to see how many rounds I could shoot without maintenance before having an FTE and it happened after about 12 boxes. Racked the slide, then kept on shooting. I clean it up after each use, and it's usually from 1 to 3 boxes. Never had an issue. The takedown is of course fabulous. No need for a screwdriver or a punch. One you realize you need to push the barrel all the way out and flat on flat, reinstalling the frame is very easy. As for shooting left, I had a similar issue and adjusted windage in pure Mosin fashion, by banging on the side. Again, not a CZ. Not very sharp adjustment. You hit 10" plates at 45yd? Congrats. What color is your front fiber? Mine is red. Not super happy with it. Should have tried the green. Which part# rear sight do you use? As for replacement recoil spring someone mentioned using a Beretta 92 spring and cutting off a "couple". But STI should really be able to provide replacement springs. Mine still looks fine after the circa 50 boxes I shot. Just a slight bend but it is still capable of shooting at least 10 times that, if not more. I am interested to know if you could get something not as intensive for the DA pull, which I myself find quite manageable. My first non-22 pistol was a 38 special Taurus (the Pulp Fiction "hand cannon") and I taught myself to shoot DA box after box. A good revolver background is probably very useful for that purpose. Again: I love the GP6. For a beginner like me, it is a very manageable pistol. And yes, I tried a few before buying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now