B.Reid

Does anyone have a clue as to where a guy can get primers these days? I use Winchester Small Rifle.

This has been one of the "must do" matches for me over the last several years running. The hospitality has been great from ALL of the Ro's and everyone else associated with the match and especially John. I really like seeing the top shooters show up but this has been one match that you could go to and shoot as an average guy and do well. Anyway it's always a good time.

Can I have the first reservation time?

I've gotta say that if you're on the fence about attending this match your gonna miss out on one to remember if you don't come. This will probably be the equal to the Double Tap Match except east of the Mississippi. There's plenty to do after the match and I know Randal will have 8 or so blowout stages. I'm looking forward to it.

I checked out the Fat Bastard and it looks like the slots vent backwards. Do the spent gasses hit the shooter? I've shot Sabre's Gill brake and the concussion seemed to hit me in the face.

It's $275 to do a STI in black and it looks really good. The only thing now is that you need a dealer/gunsmith to send the gun in for a faster turnaround time and you're still looking at about a month.

Yeah, my opinion of the current one is that it sucks.

That looks pretty sweet. Where can I get one?

I agree. No creep and breaks crisp. Just too heavy. Now that sucks. Pull it out and look at it! You might remember. In all seriousness you need to be sure that you've got all of the factory loctite type material off of the set screws and then it's just tinkering with it till you get it right. The sear is visible so you'll always know how close you are to going past the safe limit with it. It's really not that complicated but I wouldn't expect to get down any lower that 2.5lbs without concern for slam fire or bolt drop. Just be sure to take your time with it. Good luck.

Been there, done that. Browning A-Bolt II .270 with a brake (BOSS) in a treestand, when I was about 16. My dad heard the shot and tried to call me on the walkie-talkie, but I couldn't hear for about five minutes. I'm pretty sure that's what started my (very mild) tinnitus, so you could say that my ears have been ringing for about eight years. The worst part is that since it was the first time I was shooting at a living animal, and the first time with any elevation, and about 20 degrees Fahrenheit, I was nervous/excited/jittery/shivering and missed that doe. She was probably only 120-150 yards away. It had to be my fault; at the range, I could hit 1" or better groups at 100 yards with that gun. -- John. I've got tinnitus so bad I sometimes wake up thinking Paul Revere must be doing laps in my backyard. I guess that's what happens after too many Open 9 rounds.

Ain't nothing wrong with the accuracy of that rifle.........comp isn't your cure What match is this?????? This is probably your best option for a "tack driver"..... As Mater once said "That's funny, I don't care who you are." At least I've not had a girl outdrink me.

I completely understand that but having burst my left eardrum once and Webb lining up his comp with my right ear once I'm a little hard of hearing anyway so I figured what the heck. The techno;ogy today for hearing aids is awesome. Ill just get to give you guys some advice when it's your time.

I tried to adjust mine (Remington 700 LTR 20" X Mark) but wound up rounding off the upper allen screw in the front of the trigger. I looked at the Timneys but they told me on the phone that they weren't set up for the newer model triggers. Remington made a change and didn't let the aftermarket guys know about it. I then called RifleBasix and he told me of the exact item # needed for my application. They sell by the trigger weight that you want. I really like mine. I ordered the 1.5 to 4 lb trigger. It takes a few minutes to figure it out and a few digital pics of your old setup will help out as well. Mine breaks at about 2lbs right out of the pack. This isn't exactly what you're asking for but good luck with the Remmy. I personally felt that the "adjustable trigger" was just a selling point after I bought my rifle. From what I can tell the upper allen screw in the front of the trigger is the overtravel adjustment. If you've got one you need adjusted just send it to me. I'll take care of it for you. No charge.

It worked great I'm just not fond of 15 lb triggers.

I was kinda thinking that it was closer to a ten thousand rpm grinder and ADHD. As for the mountain biking experience I've gotta say that was that was by far the scariest and most dangerous thing I've done in awhile. I forgot to mention that the right lens to my glasses fell out during all of this.

I tried to adjust mine (Remington 700 LTR 20" X Mark) but wound up rounding off the upper allen screw in the front of the trigger. I looked at the Timneys but they told me on the phone that they weren't set up for the newer model triggers. Remington made a change and didn't let the aftermarket guys know about it. I then called RifleBasix and he told me of the exact item # needed for my application. They sell by the trigger weight that you want. I really like mine. I ordered the 1.5 to 4 lb trigger. It takes a few minutes to figure it out and a few digital pics of your old setup will help out as well. Mine breaks at about 2lbs right out of the pack. This isn't exactly what you're asking for but good luck with the Remmy. I personally felt that the "adjustable trigger" was just a selling point after I bought my rifle.

Thanks alot folks. Did any of you notice an improvement or decrease in the accuracy of the rifle? Was there any noticeable decrease in velocity? I'm kinda new to this side of the shooting sport so forgive me if I ask a dumb question. I do hunt with this gun but I'm also gonna try my hand at some local matches that reward points for the tightest groups and then the final target being a clay bird at about 440 yards so I still want a tack driver. Thanks again.

I've got a Remington LTR with a 20" fluted barrel. I've thought about putting a comp on it. Has anyone else done this? I'll have to have it threaded and a special comp made or use an existing one. I'm curious to see if this is a worhwhile task or just a waste of time and money. It's a really good shooting rifle but I'm always looking for ways to improve. Thanks, Bryan

Great point! thanks! That's what I do with both my .40 and .45,I can consistently turn faster times with the .45 than I can the .40 when both are loaded to power factor. As kgunz11 said, some people prefer a snappier recoil and some prefer a slower rolling recoil. However, the shooter ought to be able to overcome that. You are probably looking at a difference that is about 25-40% load development and experimentation ...with the rest (majority) of the difference being shooter technique. 40 is kind in Limited because it makes Major and gives the most capacity. Enough capacity that you have choices on where to do the reload. Extra rounds so you aren't tight. Two mags gets your through a field course...with steel. One mag gets your through two arrays (of eight rounds each plus one in the pipe). Extra rounds for make-up shots. I agree with Flex here. Most of what we as shooters is done with a preference toward a particular caliber, whatever the reason. I personally believe that the .40 is the only way to go. My preference. I can shoot Limited and L10 with just a drop in my powder charge. I use the same powder (TiteGroup), primer (WSR) and projectile (M.G. 180 FMJ) for both. Their are no magic loads, just good ones, some better than others. I've used the same gun (5" STI classic) and load from C class up to #11 in the top 20 for M class. I had a top GM tell me one time that it's the Indian and not the arrow and I've tried to remember that every time I get the itch to either change my load or try a new gun. I personally prefer a snappier load and have trained myself on how fast I can pull the trigger, depending on distance, and have 2 A hits or an A and a C. The time in this sport comes not so much from shooting as it does from movement. Economy of motion I believe is the phrase. There will always be a gap so that a reload can be done while moving. The .40 gives me that extra buffer should I need it on round count which is always a plus. It will always come back to preference. Why not choose the gun that gives you the most options then find 1 load that you like and practice your butt off in addition to shooting EVERY match available to you?

Yeah I bought several of these mags from Jeff and they're awesome. Really good fit and finish and a nice guy to boot.

Has anyone had any experience with the Horus Vision scopes? I've looked at the Scmidt & Benders with the Horus aiming system and it's really cool. Saves alot of time on dialing and from their website they seem competitively priced depending on what you want.

I bought a Remington 700 LTR (.308/20") a few weeks ago and was never satisifed with the trigger. They say they're adjustable but I didn't find it that simple. Anyway after screwing up the factory one I ordered a Rifle Basix from Midway in the 1.5-4lb range. It was an easy install and is about 1.5-2.5 lbs with no adjustments out of the box. I just thought I'd give out some info in case anyone else has had similar problems. You can check for your specific on their website. I think it's www.riflebasix.com. Good luck.

I've shot alot of different powders and I keep coming back to TiteGroup with M.G. 180's. It makes a 170 p.f. consistently out of a 5" STI and it also works well in minor when dowloaded. It's readily available and in my experience it burns cleanly. I also use a WSR primer with mixed brass. When I find myself with the urge to try something else the words of a wisened GM shooter keep coming back, "It's the Indian and not the arrow".

Ok, thanks everyone.

Wow, I really appreciate the response guys. Just out of curiousity, is the SJC louder on the .308 than the .223? I've fired 60mm mortar rounds that were quiter than one of those.