glock34shooter

I look at slings like this. A single point sling is the easiest shoot and load from because it is the least restrictive,but the downside is it is the least secure. A two point is very secure, but it can cause problems depending on your shooting and reloading style. For me I prefer to have the ease of shooting and reloading over ability sling the gun without burning me. I reload a shotgun strong hand so a two point does not work for me. It also tends to get in the way when I transition to my pistol. Now someone that reloads weakhand will be fine with a two point. Matt

Simmons has the 1.5-5 for $119 for sale on their website. You might also consider the millett 1-4, it is a little more expensive but it is a little better optic.

You would have to compare apples to apples. There is more to the recoil of an AR than just gas system. I believe a middy and a carbine gas system was on a identically prepared upper there would be minimal difference in recoil. A prime example is if you have one barrel with a comp and the other with an A2 flashhider, you will notice a difference. On the other hand if they both had the same comp and buffer the recoil would be very similar Matt

It sounds like a forward fault line would have solved this problem. Another suggestion would be to tell the shooter to move back. But ultimately safety is paramount. At the club I shoot IDPA at we have a hard 180. It is a indoor range, and even pointing your gun past 180 is a no no, and usually a DQ. Matt

I have a 1100 tactical which is just a green tac4. It has thousands of rounds through it. It has the occasional malfuction, but nothing has ever broken. I do understand how there can be problems, one thing that you have to keep track of is the mag spring. Since the action cycles off of the shell coming out of the mag tube you need to check/ replace each season. The advice I got from Daniel Horner years ago was to keep it wet and it will keep running. I don't clean it very often, but I keep it sprayed down with REM Oil. I am in the process of changing over to a FN SLP, but not because the 1100 has ever let me down. I guess I it is attempt to fix something that is not broken. Matt

Awesome info, it figures that Sierra 's ballistic program is correct since my wife threw it away thinking it was a black disk. Your info will make all the difference for me. I really appreciate it. Matt

George, Okay when I change the BC from .395 G1 to .395 G5 I get nearly the same results as you. Can you explain to me the difference between G1 and G5, and how it aplies to this. If it is to much info I understand, I am just trying to get myself smarter on this subject. Matt

George, Thanks for the replies. The two programs we are using do not wash very good. On the one I used and the one on Hornady's website are similiar, but yours is different. I am not saying you are wrong I am just saying the mediums we are using are different. As far as the velocity at 2810 fps, that was .223 saami spec factory ammo. I agree that I would benefit from higher velocity ammo, I would even love to go to a heavier bullet, but with out the ability to reload it is not cost effective for me. Matt

I have been looking at ballistics charts and the 50-200 does not seem to be feasible. I guess if you were using heavier bullets or more velocity you might get it. Thoughts? Trajectory_Output.doc

Most of the matches I shoot locally are short range due to area limitations. I use a 50 yard zero on my 18" Sabre with a 2 moa Aimpoint and 3x magnifier and when I go to CTI, Recon, or BRM3G there are always longer stages so there is the dilema. This set up is perfect for the local 80 to 100 yard wth reduced size targets. (I tend to win the long stage consistantly) I have even used this setup to finish 4th at Recon, and I won the long range stage there ( about 250 yard targets). It seams that out to 250ish the 2 moa dot and magnifier require no hold over/under. Now as we all know out side of 250 the dot and magnifier are a problem. So I got a great deal on a Leupold Vari-X III 1.5-5, what I am trying to decide what to use for a zero. I have chrono'ed my rifle with the load a plan to use, and I have used that info to get specs on a 25, 50, 100, and 200 yard zero out to 500 yards. The 50 yard seems best suited for my local matches. I looked at the 100 and 200 for longer matches. The 200 is far better than the 100, but when I looked at the 25 it is almost identical to the 200. The funny thing is the 25 has about 2 inches less drop in the 350 to 500 yard range, and it is only about .75 about the trajectory of the 200 yard zero at its peak. So after all that what do you think/ use and why? Matt

Well I think there is more to this than is the call right or wrong. Was this a sanctioned match? Was the shooter new to IDPA? Does the shooter have a history of making these type of "mistakes" or "brain farts"? I would say that if this is an experienced shooter, then there should with out question be a FTDR. If he was an inexperienced shooter then I would say maybe. You have to accept that if you are an experienced shooter, or at a sanctioned match there is no wiggle room. I will also say that just because the shooter did not gain an advantage, does not mean he did not intend to gain an advantage. The only thing that sounds wierd is that he got a procedual also.

I recently switched Police Depts, and with that change I have switched duty weapons. I went from a Glock to a HK. I won numerous local matches, and a few trophies in sanctioned matches with a Glock 34. I made the change because the HK is now the gun protects me (and you) so I put my 34 away. There are several issues I had to deal with, and like most people have said already the bore axis is not optimum for fast shooting (when compaired to other guns). The other thing that I believe contributes to the high muzzle flip/felt recoil is the grip angle. The up side to the HK is with the mag release under the trigger guard you can have some smoking fast reloads. It is also extremely accurate. Matt

Are you using factory ammo? If not then you are probably trying to use to low of a PF in the gun. If you want to keep that ammo then look to a spring change. If you are using factory ammo then look to limp wristing first, then look to the extractor for carbon build up, or maybe even a chipped extractor. Matt