TWHaz

Better video of Adams grip.

Got mine today too Dave. Ditto

Some post deserve to be bumped more than once.

124g MT JHP oal 1.65 misc case once fired WSR primers Ramshot Sillouette 7.2g Allways start 10% less than others loads and work up to what is safe in your pistol. 7.2g-10%= 6.5g No 2 chambers, freebore or barrels are the same. Safety first.

9mm major Ramshot Sillouette 124g bullet 38 super and 38 super comp. VV 3N38 124g bullet 40SW Winchester super target WST 180g bullet with a para P-16 If I had a STI limited gun I would use Clays. (high pressure)

Yep it is you. I found it while checking out your cross over foot work post. Nice shooting and moving. Do you wait for the spring thaw to get your brass?

That may be it. If I shoot a follow up shot right away (calling my shot) I am responding. If I have to go back for a follow up shot, I am reacting to what I did not see before I left the missed plate ???????????????????????? Bottom line, see the plate, see sights on plate, see sight lift before snapping eyes to next plate.

If you saw the miss why did you not shoot it before you left? That (I think) may be the difference in reacting and responding to your sights.

Guilty of not knowing I missed it. I saw it in my peripheral vision. I am guilty of stoping and going back, but lately I continue with the rack then go back. I sometimes but not allways (trying to go faster) get them all the first time by seeing the dot rise before shifting my eyes to the next plate.

In Arizona we shoot when it is (summer months) 90 degrees plus by 9:00 am. But the visual effect is not as good as that video.

2 scenarios 1.While shooting a plate rack I miss one and return to it, then continue with the rest. 2.While shooting a plate rack I miss one but continue to shoot the rest, then return and pick up the missed plate. Which is a response or reaction ?

I saw this on "youtube". I shoot in Arizona and have to admire the toughness (you may call it something else) of these shooters.

TJ's youtube of what you seek. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5M4EHsVHZY...feature=related

124 MG JHP, oal 1.225, WSR primer, 9.0 to 9.2 of VV 3N38. in my 38 super comp STI 2 hybrid holes and STI comp. makes major. tweek/tune it to your shooting style If you like a snappier load 3N37

First off I do not want this to become a heated topic. I just have been wondering about a few things as I am new to the "Big match" venue. I have talked to several shooters who have been around a while. They say at the old matches prizes were handed out according to overall, division and class finishes. Now we have graduated to major prizes to match winner and division winners only. Class finishes are awarded a trophy. Then everyone no matter what order of finish gets an equal chance in the random drawings. Now in one of the few sports where amateur competitors compete against professionals on an equal basis, I can see where this is the only way to be fair and keep up attendance. On the other hand what about the amateur who spends more of their hard earned money and time on practice? They do not have much of a chance against the professional GMs in each division but usually win their class before moving up. They pay their own match fees, travel and logging. Yet they only look forward to trophies for all their effort and many see less dedicated competitors walk away with the better prizes. I myself have benefitted from this when having had a poor showing and walking away with a better prize than a shooter who placed higher and (IMHO) deserves more. I understand the need for greater participation , but there may be a better way. The professionals are just that and deservedly so. They have put in countless hours of practice and money to get where they are. Is there a way to have them compete and receive what they deserve in a category separate from amateurs? Is there a way to have the amateur shooters whom have spent the time and money to be a step above to receive what they should? I was told the old way was not fair to the less capable shoot. They never won and never could, so attendance would drop at the big matches. With the new growth in USPSA membership, I wonder. There are many (non-sponsored/professional) shooters whom are not receiving recognition due to them having to compete against people who shoot 10 to 50 thousand rounds a year. This may have been all hashed out many times. If it has just let this post go away. I like the trophy matches with random drawings as much as the award by finish match as shooters like me benefit from it. Still I wonder what is best for USPSA? Opions??????????????????????????????????????????????

An oldie but a goodie and it still applies.

Laugh all you want, Murphy does not care what kind of gun you shoot. He will get around to you some day.

Saul Kirsch says it in his book and It is true in anything you do. "WINNING IS A PREPARED FOR EVENT"

Oh oh - two squibs. I use the numbers myself 1,2...3,4...5,6...7,8...9,10...reload...1,2...etc Think about this. Instead of 1,2...3,4...5,6 If you have 3 targets in an array, 123456 If you have 2 targets then 3 targets, 1234...5678910.. and so on. It may help not program a pause in your shooting

I have to agree. I tried some longshot in my 38 super. Shooting 7.3g it was some what clean. Shooting 8.0g it left flakes and grit, that turned my blaster into a single shot after 100 rounds or so. 4756 or 3n38 are sure cleaner.

They're not "bad" guns, but if you pay the suggested retail for one ($2600) you're getting pretty close to the point that you could have a basic, solid gun built by a decent smith. The Tru-Bore might run, it might not and if you pay to have it tuned now you're really close to the price of a basic smith built gun. I'd put my money on a basic gun from a decent smith. Buying a nice used Open gun isn't a bad idea either...you'll get a lot more gun and maybe some extras thrown in. There are a lot of people that buy expensive Open guns and decide it just isn't for them pretty quickly. I totally agreee with you for the $2,600 list price. But, on Gunbroker there is a NIB STI Tru-Bore for a Buy Now price of $1,900. Sound interesting? Randy- There are quite a few "FFL dealers" that list in GunBroker. I have dealt/received from a few of them on deals such as yours. Just realize that a "local" dealer to you might be able (maybe) to match those prices, and save you shipping, insurance, receiving FFL's fees, etc., plus give you a face you can connect to the deal for any discrepancies. May I suggest you do a couple of calls around before you buy. There are no guarrantees someone will beat those prices, but you never know unless you shop around... and make sure that what you get is what you really want. Like someone already mentioned, you still need to get a few more magazines, holster, "red dot sight" etc. Remember this forum's moto: "Maku Mozo" !!!!!! ( By the way on Thursday eve match at Markham, ask "Big Ed" about the gun he has for sale, he'll probable let you shoot it... ) I purchased a 38 Super Tru-bor from Dawson ($2375. + tax). Had it Gawson tuned, no hard chrome($150.) shipping($25.). The Tru-bor trigger can be tuned down to 2lbs if you know how. I put a DK trigger and CS sear and a 17# MS for a reliable 1.5# trigger($140.). Had the slide flat topped and 2 holes added ($150.) Mags 4 at ($100) each. I had to tune the ejector myself as Dawson left it to long for 1.250 OAL. Now I load 1.225 oal. The gun runs flawless and eats 38 super AND 38 super comp brass. The extractor holds the 38 super tite but still functions flawlessl with super or super comp. Good accuarracy. I am a C open shooter, but get accussed of sandbagging Add it all up and you can decide if you want a Tru-bor or a custom. As a side note as always happens as soon as I got my Tru-bor some guy at the club decided he had enough of open and wants to sell his custon 38 super plus mags and more for $2000. I do not know how it runs as I am afraid to shoot it as I may get even more pissed XCUSMYSPELIN

I was trying to post something that had the format of the VV chart. Here are some in list form that I do not agree that #12 Titegroup is faster than #16 clays. When I loaded them clays seemed the faster powder. More list links; http://www.camdenrgc.com/reload/powderrate..._rate_chart.htm A good page is; http://www.chuckhawks.com/index2k_reloading.htm It has some good reading for the non-kiss people. When I was shooting High Power I used to fuss over my long range loads (600 yards) and Measured each round carefully. I found that until you are shooting 800, 900, or 1000 yards it is not that ctritical. Just keep everything consistant. Now I reload for USPSA and try to get my pistols shooting as flat as possible and still make major. I fell back on my HP experience and used the kiss method. get some powders load up a sampling then shoot as you would in a match. measure groups compare splits and watch how the sight/dot reacts. Pic the load you are most happy with and by a bunch of it and GO TO THE RANGE AND PRACTICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.vihtavuori-lapua.com/pdfs/Burning-Rate-Chart.pdf

http://www.sportglasses.com/

Well I have not seen much posted about the WSSSC. I would think the shooters would have thawed out enough by now to post some good stories about shooting in the snow in Phoenix, AZ. Not something that happens all that often as the owner of this site can asure us. There had to be some new experiences for the local shooters? Come on guys and gals.