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Posts posted by mike cyrwus
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Ambi-Safetys are 2 piece, just take the ejection port side off.
Remove the grip and it should just come out.
you cant do this, as its pin that runs through the frame and grip safety isnt long enough. You could grind off the paddle, (I did this to my carry gun on the left paddle; as Im a lefty), but really, you should probably just get a non safety ambi. Less stuff to break, too.
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If you mark up the ejector and pull it up as far as it will go from its looseness, you can cycle the slide upside down a few times and see if theres any major contact with the slide.
I shot a 1911 like that for darn near a year and it was fine.
-Dont forget to keep the trigger depressed while you cycle the slide.
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-that post just so they can read their own words.
If I wanted any S*** out of them Id squeeze their heads.
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double ugh.
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With respect,
For half of what youre paying in parts alone, you could have a smith do a nice crisp 4# trigger on the exisiting parts and youd most likely me thrilled.
No trigger job is truly drop in. You might get lucky, you might have a good chance of getting lucky, but you might just make yourself a full auto machine pistol.
If you try to get down to 2# without having a good experienced smith do it, youre asking for trouble.
The key to a low # trigger job is polishing, fitting and recut sear angles. Not dropping in new parts.
edit: before taking internet advise to dump the 80 series parts, make sure you know you need to replace the parts with a spacer.
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I recently picked up some Ky-Tac pouches and a couple of holsters.
I was hesitant to order from him in the past because of these stories.
However,when he became a member of a board I moderate,I figured I would get good service....and I did.
Quick turnaround and great service.
As to the products,they are second to none.
One thing that stands out about the Ky-tac gear is the attention to molding detail INSIDE the holsters.
They have excellent retention...so much you can turn the holster upside down and the gun will not shake loose.
even so,they still draw fast.
When I first got one,I checked the retention and since it was very tight,i figured I would have to loosen the screws to get a decent draw....wrong! they are just that good.
good to see you here, JP.
Kytac is all I use.
When the holster lets loose, its gone.
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Some of the older paras have it, I cant speak for the newer ones.
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I just put the trigger in, and took out the 80s parts. I bought the gun used, and had been work on before. How ever I don't think much was done. I think I need to slick up some of the other parts. I did buy a Nowlin sear spring, it seem to be to short.
Thanks
HEY, did you figure out about that short nowlin sear spring? Paras have a longer than spec spring and you have to mod the frame if you want to use regular 1911 sear springs.
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Id think youll get a better response in the reloading or springs section.
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wow,
thats a long time for a smith to have a gun in for repairs; was Jimmy Carter the president back then?
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Have an OS slide stop fitted, or cut and bevel the right side of the pin and frame hole.
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I would just practice assembly/disassembly; it gets easier with time.
I would never let JB weld touch any of my guns; thats crazy!
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are lots of little things when you take it to that level.
Like what, specifically?
Feel free to go into detail and take photos!
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yes, post a pic, too.
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good point, gans. Its always nice to have the back of the sight fitted well to the slide.
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I must admit to ingnorance on this one.
Does anyone have any pics of the difference between the two?
Bo-Mar, Novak fixed, Novak adj.
Gans, the middle pic of the fixed novak sight is actually a SW cut, that uses their sw 3rd gen auto fixed sights. The dovetail is actually deeper on the novak sights. But the look is the very similar.
A true Novak cut is the same whether its a fixed or adj. sight.
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oooooh; cool!
I might have found my next production gun!
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Eric, you can count to 20 but not to 10, come on out to the shop & I will show you how.
lol!
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NICE!
What kind of barrel bushing is used with one of those? Im very curious.
Anyone know where I can see pics of the front end of one of those???
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my SW1911
it won C class L10 last year!
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great job!
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Ive shot 230 major loads with a wolff 12.5# spring and a buff.
Inconsistent feeding has made me embrace a 14# ISMI spring and a buff.
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Grip safeties are why I shoot neither XDs nor 1911s. A completely silly notion for a safety device.
"I know, let's put a bump where people have hollows, and make them have to push the bump with the hollow!"
I love that sensation of hauling on the trigger, then wiggling the palm of your hand until the gun fires. Sexy!
You ever carry cocked and locked?
I like the thought of the grip safety.
Cutting One Side Of Ambi Thumb Safety
in General Gunsmithing
Posted · Edited by mike cyrwus
ok...if you say so.
edit: If your willing to have a grip safety secured with only half the thumb safety's pin, then thats your choice. Im saying that its not the right way to run a gun. Remember, the side that will be a little looser is the same side with the flange that interacts with the trigger bow. So by doing that, you could make a safety inoperative or make it work erratically, depending on the specs between the frame tangs, grip safety, and half of the thumb safety.