mike cyrwus
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Posts posted by mike cyrwus
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I just installed my vanek drop in.
Im pleased with the feel and break.
I had the opportunity to dry fire a friends sotelo kit before I bought the vanek, and the pretravel was a bit crunchy, only lightly so, but it was there none the less. In fairness, that could have been because it was a dirty gun.
But A big difference I felt was both in the break, and especially in the smmoth , light take up. Sotelos take up, was kinda like a 1911, no, tension on the trigger other than what it takes to push it back until it engages the sear.
While the vanek was a constant very light takeup.
Is it worth $60 more; I thought so.
But then again, Im a equipment chaser; Id use whale sperm as a lubricant if it was said to help.
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Your probably looking at the chrony F1; they are ok, they get the job done.
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Great thread, very relevant.
I got some of those extreme plated .40 180's for my glock 35, stock barrel.
It seemed that about 10-20% of the holes in the targets showed extreme tumbling. And I couldnt hit the steel worth a darn yesterday.
I will play around with the crimp, as suggested, but I wonder if the glock barrel really needs hard jackets for proper accuracy.
any ideas?
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I tried using the normal non extended release, that helped,
and I just thought of the middle finger this morning at the range.
I guess Im not going to get around backing off some with my strong hand grip to make it a more positive release.
My index finger really hurts, too.
I wonder if this can be bad for my trigger control?
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sorry to hear that; Id pull them all, or throw the remaining rounds away; but if you find one double charge then you found the culprit, and its a lot more reassuring to know you just screwed up, rather than think theres gremlins running around your reloading setup. -makes you a bit punchy when working up loads.
It split the chamber?
Im afraid its probably either a overcharge, or you had a squib before it, but since it was 10 shots into shooting, Id go with a double throw.
I never understood guys saying to weigh loaded pistol bullets, when a guy has a squib. An extra 4 grains can hide in a lot of places in a loaded cartridge, as you found out.
Are you using a dillon 550?
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Thanks so much for your input; much appreciated!
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aah, the old "spirit" of the rules interpretation!
Uh, this isnt really helping my thread, which I posted for information.
thanks.
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Fixed the problem, the lee die body wasnt down far enough...only problem was that on the Hornady LNL AP the lee die screwed down all the way where it works properly the LNL's wire clip that takes the round out of the shell plate gets crushed... so i gotta take em out manualy to work
you can grind down a side of the lee crimp die, or buy a hornady taper crimp die, and it will clear the ejector wire.
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Hi, Im shooting a 34 in production, and the mag release is killer on my trigger finger, since, as a lefty, its what I use.
I will soon swap the extended mag release for a normal one, and I think that may help, but is there any aftermarket spring I can get to make it easier to actuate?
Another, perhaps more important question I have is related to production division mods; can I hit the corners and edges of the mag release with some sandpaper just to knock the edge off? How far can I go any keep this legal?
A veteran shooter said something to me about being able to do minor detailing to stock parts for production, is this true?
Im not trying to gain any kind of advantage, I just want to lessen the pain on my finger pad as I try to drop a mag.
I searched here for previous posts, but I didnt come across any.
Id welcome any thoughts or suggestions you all might have.
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Ive only been shooting matches for 2006, and Ive never seen it.
Think "downrange" at all times.
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What happens when you start from surrender, or with your hands on the X's, then the doh is that much farther away.
Ill keep my kytac on the belt, thank you.
It looks as though
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Cant do that in production.
production div. is for guns produced and spit out from the factory.
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The only external extractor Ive heard that works well, are the ones on the S&W 1911's.
I have one now, had two. Never a problem.
Im shooting mine in L10 and s.s. The SW1911 extractor is so much simpler than the kimber's; why they felt to rube goldberg the external extractor; while, SW uses a pin, a spring, and a claw, -I have no idea.
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I think I may come.
I will look at the stages.
thanks for the .ppt.
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I shot this one last weekend.
105pts, 23.5 seconds, my HF 4.45.
My weak hand shooting practice paid off.
But more importantly, my 1st B-class level classifier!!!
and only my 6th classifier so far, still unclassified, which will change if they ever run the scores this month!
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flowing means being continuously deceiving
-deceiving yourself so you can perform, and not think.
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flowing is continuous
flowing is deceiving
flowing is damn hard after only three months in this sport
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ky-tac, baby!
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kahr P40.
Its there when I need it, and it doesnt feel like a double stack.
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Thanks , its going out to Bedell.
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Mines 9835,
and nurseman, I have your broken part's evil twin. looks exactly the same.
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I had the same thing happen to me; The Hornady tech told me just where it had snapped, and he was right.
He told me that he thought that all of the hubs from that bad batch were gone; he thought.
You must have gotten two bad ones in a row. They must still have some bad hubs in their bins. They had better toe the line when you call them up this time.
the hub binding at the ejector wire or dragging on a primer should in NO way snap a properly cast hub. There are weaker points than there in the drive system.
as far as the failure happening on the way up, its most likely due to non fully seated primers. check them out, are they totally flush?
Also I think that using a wrench to do anything more than snug the shellplate down to the subplate is something tyo watch out for. -Hornady even says to make it finger tight, I believe.
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I have an uncut standard wide frame. The smiths Im most familiar with have long waits and it appears that they go in the order of work received, no matter if its a big or small job.
All I want is a shop that has a good rep and knows what theyre doing to cut my frame for my p-c ramped .40 schumann barrel; and wont take a month to get it back to me.
Any suggestions? Id appreciate contact info, too if its handy!
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I probably stand corrected.
180gr Lead In G35 W/storm Lake Barrel Chambering Problem
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
Hi, I have these .40 180gr conical flat point, hard cast bullets that have a rather long bearing surface, and when I seat it at 1.125", Im actually hitting the barrel lands and rifling. I would need to seat it down to 1.07" for me to get all of the bearing surface of the bullet into the case, and for it to chamber properly, I checked by dropping it in the barrel.
These same cartridges when as long as 1.13", will still drop right in the stock glock barrel chamber.
The fellow I bought the glock had mentioned that he thought the storm lake barrel was unusually tight. He had mentioned that he was shooting the 185gr coated precision bullets through the stock glock barrel because they wouldnt reliably chamber in the storm lake.
The case isnt the issue as I have a U-die.
The bullets mike at .400-.4005.
It looks like a high bullet shoulder or insufficient taper reaming of the barrel is the culprit.
So: in review, my two questions are:
1) can I seat those lead bullets down to 1.07"?'; how much should I lower my powder?
I have shot plated 180gr with 4.2gr of titegroup at 1.125"
2) Is this tightness a "common" deal with storm lake barrels? Anyone else have experiences with shooting 185gr precisions in one or other aftermarket barrels?
I have some 185gr precisions en route to me.
thanks much!