bp78

It may be a fairly blatant plea for help from someone not involved here. But he does have a decently done home page of various interests that plugs xdtalk.com nicely. Bringing the 'gun thing' alongside other interests certainly can't hurt the sport. His work did actually beat most the choices anyhow. He's off to a commanding lead already with 18%, 16% 2nd place, and single digit for all others.

Animation to make it look like kids play.

Yes, Jim is a nice guy, just placed my second order with him for more 9mm & 45acp. He's been very helpful over the phone so give him a ring if you have questions. His 45acp 200swc are shorter than some other 200swc I've tried and I had some feeding issues with them. Anyone else find a good load for his 200gr SWCs?

Should be the same story as the SP01: Lighter grips, wood. Regular slide stop, Lanyard plug swaped for a standard mainspring plug, Lighter mags like the older 16rd 75b mags. http://www.czshooters.com/f/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1310

I'll come right out and admit that I'm a brass whore at about 1 match a month. I don't think it's new shooters so much as it is new reloaders. Before I started reloading, I'd shoot a match with sparkling fresh winchester white box and never give a seconds thought to where that brass landed or ended-up. I shot the same match above with boo radley and agree with the points made. This was also a match that I brass whored. When I wasn't scoring, I would pickup a handful of brass on the way down range, paste a target or array, and then grab another handful on the way up. The only folks on our squad that gave a thought to brassing at all were the open shooters. I'd go through each handful to deliver all the 38super flavored casing to them. Even picking 3x to 4x the amount of brass I shot at each stage, we still left lots of brass behind. I'm very conscious that I notice who & who doesn't care about their brass. And I go out of my way to make sure I do my part in running the stage, either resetting steel, pasting, or scoring. Hopefully if anyone has a problem with it they'll tell me. I really don't see a problem at our local clubs, maybe it's just the heat and humidity that keep people from caring about brass. At the other matches each month, I'm happy to keep my hands clean, paste & score, and keep my head in the game. Brassing is a dirty job. I understand the hate rants about folks that do nothing but brass the stage for themselves. We don't see many of those types, and when we do, somebody tends to hand them a fresh strip of pasters to get the point across. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the unwritten rules where brassing isn't a stage assignment are: First priority is keeping the stage running; paste,reset, and score just like everyone else. A shooter is entitled to his own brass back if he makes any effort to get it. Help him if so, in the hopes he'll return the favor to you. Marked brass goes back to it's owner. .38Super shooters *always* care about their brass. Brass left behind by shooters is up for grabs if the club doesn't have a rule that it's theirs. Pick-up the live ones for the sake of the lawn mower.

Just as a follow-up, I ended up buying the Extreme Engineering kit linked above. I was told by a local shooter that the EE kit is just a rebranded Cylinder & Slide set, they certainly appear identical. My EE kit arrived with some minor spotty surface rust on the hammer which is annoying considering the price. Next time, I'll buy the kit from Brazo's.

1. On closer inspection, the replacement trigger was twice as heavy as the OEM one. 135gr compared to the stock STI plastic trigger at 58.3gr. (although it ran fine 2000+ rounds after being added) 2. After the latest incident at out Tuesday Night Match, I found that the trigger stop screw again backed out completely. Could either be attributed to the hammer following or returning to half-cock? Either way, I've returned the gun back to completely stock. Sear, disconnector, sear spring, hammer, trigger, and mag release. I'll try another range trip, slapping the trigger this time, and see if the problem persists. I also emailed STI to see if they have anything to suggest or if they would like me to send it in.

Trigger pulled in, I can not cock the hammer manually. Another match tonight, I ran 15 rounds before the match started no issues what so ever. Stage 1, beep, boom, half-cock notch. Rack, repeat. Back to the backup gun to finish the match. I pulled the grip safety off before the match and had another shooter who builds his own 2011s take a look at the sear spring and movement of the disconnector. I nor he believes it's a lack of tension on disconnector (but what do I know at this point). The trigger is a solid aluminum long trigger, could the heavier trigger be causing the hammer follow to half-cock? I only suggest this because it's a bit heavier than most and the problems surface when I shoot a match and slap the trigger instead of the slow & deliberate paper-punching test cycles on the range.

During the test yesterday, I had plenty of pressure on the disconnector and believe it was resetting. Assembled, pushing on the disconnector showed no movement impediment and it was a bit more heavily sprung than my other 1911s. I'll test it again this afternoon (I bent the left leg to put more pressure on the sear) and watch the disconnector closely. Thanks.

I replaced the sear spring with a Clark 4 leg spring and the hammer follow problems went away for about ~140 rounds. Then, in a local match of course, the pistol again became a single shot with the hammer following down on every round. After that incident, I replaced everything. A new Extreme Engineering hammer, sear, disconnecter kit, new strut, new ed brown 3-leg sear spring. With the new kit in place yesterday, all dry firing testing was successful as far as I could tell. I took it out to the range and after about 20 rounds it doubled once and then the hammer started following repeatedly. (I was cautious only loading 2 or 3 rounds at a time). Pulling it apart again, comparing it to my untouched and working NHC pistol, I don't see any problems in the sear spring contacts. I still believe I may not be tensioning the legs correctly and have been hard-pressed to find clear directions on setting up a sear spring properly. The other issue just noticed last night is that the trigger over travel screw had backed out allowing for excessive over travel. Could that be contributing to these problems? Thanks.

Anyone with more detail on how or why the direction the sight slides in matters? I would assume that a single cutter is used to cut the front dovetail and the cut would be the same all the way through the slide: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/N...p;t=1&i=537

I recently swapped a standard CZ-SP01 hammer for a competition hammer from Angus. Now that I have the dentent springs back in place I still can't get the safety to engage. I see that the safety should rotate up and then block the sear but it contacts the sear and will not move into the safe position. I expected the competition hammer to drop it. Does it require fitting? I've disassembled, reassembled, watched video clips and still can't get the pistol assembled where the safety will engage. Any tips?

I'm not familiar with "ion bonded". Nothing like that on the invoice. Bob use a black oxide finish which is not similar to the IonBond finish. I checked with him on getting my pistol shipped to IonBond directly (they're only 1hr up the road) but the only outsourced finish they use is Robar NP3 which would have added another 300+ to the build. We'll see how the black oxide holds up, I may still get it IonBonded if I shoot it a lot and don't expect any part changes.

This is a very exciting post since I ordered a very similar one in .45 just a few days after you did. I was expecting it early May based on the order estimate but here's to hoping for a call real soon.

Thanks Steve. The hammer does have a 1/2 cock notch, I just meant to say that the hammer followed down completely, doesn't stop on the half-cock notch. This is a new problem, the trigger, although a little heavier, has been running w/o any issues for 2000 rds or more. I'll try the sear spring bend tomorrow. It hadn't been disassmbled since the last match it ran fine in a week ago, and after reassembling today it still had the same problem. I'll look at it assembled. Thanks again Steve & Brazos. Just to clarify, this is a stock STI trigger & not Brazos work.

On stage 1 of a match today, I had a single instance of the hammer following the slide down (a 12rd stage). Stage 2 started and my STI Trojan was then rendered a single shot with the hammer following the slide down on every round. This is a near stock STI Trojan I bought just over a year ago from Brazos. I changed out the trigger (to a long aluminum solid trigger), recoil spring, and some other parts but haven't touched the fire-control parts any. No part changes or issues within the last 1000 rounds either. I completely broke down and cleaned the internals but the problem persists. I drop the hammer, keep the trigger depressed, and rack the slide, the hammer then follows down completely (IT DIDN'T catch the half-cock catch). The primers on stage 2 weren't even dented, no F/A incident. I borrowed a gun to finish out the match (thanks boo radley). I don't see the sear or hammer chipped at all or any other obvious failure. Any ideas of what to check or is it just time for a new fire-control set of parts for this Trojan? It's a bit over a year old and has close to 10k rounds on it. Edited to clarify some vague statements..

I bought another 45 for Single Stack because I already reloaded for 45. Before I bought another 45 I did the math to see how much a .40 would save and it wasn't much. Add in new dies, toolhead, and magazines and it'll take a while to pay off the switch. Starting from scratch, I think I'd opt for a .40single stack. Shoot ESP in IDPA, Single Stack major, and limited down the road. Math @ brass reused 6x. $35/k .40sw | $55/k .45acp .40sw 4.5 Titegroup 170RNF Moly $112.80/K 180JHP Zero $146.00/K .45acp 4.1 Clays 200SWC Moly $127.30/K 185JHP Zero $149.70/K

Story just made the Fox frontpage too: http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,342855,00.html If he loses his contracts maybe we can have him arrange an "Albanian" ammo group-buy. He was paying $22/1000 (I assume for 7.62x39), I'd love to see some 9mm priced like that. Young, dumb, and ambitious is usual not without it's bumps in life.

I'm piecing together a dedicated Marvel .22 1911 which works out to be the perfect excuse to upgrade my STI Trojan. (Moving the stock STI ignition set over to the Marvel) I'm looking at a few drop in trigger kits from Nowlin and Cylinder & Slide available from Brownells and MidwayUSA. Any experiences or suggestions in picking between them? A few I've looked at so far: C&S Super Match http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...&t=22164010 C&S Warp http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...&t=22164010 Nowlin Speed Demon Match Action Kit http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...leitemid=963974

Exactly. Part #31 in the CZ75 parts diagram. Connects to that tiny plate and wraps bends around the inside of the frame.

Thanks guys. I called Angus today but he could only refer me to CZ-USA. I'll give them a try in the morning since they're closed now.

I was in the doc office last week asked for a test as an aside. A quick stop by a local LabCorp office and 1 week later I had a result of 13. Doc told me normal levels were 0 - 19. I shoot purchased lead and moly bullets about twice a week, outdoors, and have been reloading for almost a year & half picking, sorting, and cleaning my own brass. As a new reloader my brass-fever led to some admittedly bad habits like "pick-brass, then eat" at matches. I expect my lead level will come down as a result of eliminating some of those lax behaviours discussed in this thread & others.

I upgraded my SP01 this weekend, new springs, hammer, and sights. After a few attempt at reassembling it and not having the safety not move at all I've noticed that I lost the right-side safety detent plunger spring. Of course it's no where to be found. Who can I order a replacement from? I don't see them listed at Angus's store nor Brownells nor MidwayUSA.

Thanks for the tips, it worked. I used some fine wet-dry paper on both the bottom and front-face of the sight a few times until it went in. Only a small character mark added during the process. Now to sight it in once I get the new hammer and springs back together.

I am replacing the rear sight on my CZ SP-01 with the CZ competition rear. The original night sight was very tight. After a lot of hammering the n/s came out. I started to drift in the new competition sight but it is even tighter. I pulled it back out after getting it half-way in and noticed it is shaving some metal off the sight as it's going in. Is this expected, any tips? The sight can drift in or out either direction/side correct? Thanks.