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Everything posted by Craig0ry

  1. Tanfo Grips won’t fit as the screw placement is in an entirely different spot, and the back strap of the gun is significantly different as well. And as Clang Clang said the doodad was for their issue holster, would love to see what it looks like, mine is still on as I wanted to keep the gun original. I found it makes for a perfect trigger guard fit for the polymer lower Jericho holsters, just without the rail the gun can cant back and forth in it, but adding some extra material to the bottom of that holster where the rail would be on newer guns it would be a perfect fit,(ordered t
  2. All parts I used were from a small frame Tanfo, that’s pretty much all we have in canada, but your trigger parts will be the same regardless, any Tanfo trigger should work. I ended up buying another police trade in, black this time, still waiting for it to arrive, but it will most likely get a henning trigger and the full work around with a DP front sight, see how much of a competition gun I can make a Jericho, if you have any more specific questions let me know, this Tanfoglio section is pretty quiet these days.
  3. Well I got one today! Basically a Tanfo so I thought I would post it here. Stripped it right down for a cleaning. it was pretty grungy. Soon discovered which parts were interchangeable with Tanfoglio and which weren't. Parts that are not interchangeable are: Safety Main spring strut. The rest seems to be the same. The trigger that comes on these trade-ins is specially designed for the SAO pistol, It has extra material on the front so it will not allow the trigger to move forward like a DA trigger will on reset. So if you want a DA/SA I will have to send you a trigger as wel
  4. Had one for a few months, Great gun for the price. Only gripe I had was the grip was too large for me. Alot bigger than a STI 2011. Ended up trading it in a 3 way trade with some buddies, the 2011 for a Beretta for a q 5 match. I ended up with the Q5
  5. I know a lot of threads have been popping up but I just wanted to clarify, top ends are not interchangeable correct? Seen a limited pro top end for sale and wanted to know if it would fit my stock 3 small frame.
  6. Thanks for that update, I bought the PD BOLO but it’s going to require some fitting, after you put the bolo in yours did you have to adjust the screws on your henning trigger? I have mine set with red loctite again.
  7. Try the pencil test, put a pencil down the barrel with the eraser sitting against the breech face, pull the trigger and see how high it flies with and without the FPB
  8. I use a variable temp bearing grease on the plunger/trigger bar connection, very light amount, as well on the rails during the summer time, but not the winter, slows down my slide too much in the cold, a little bit of Lucas oil on the barrel and locking lugs and a small amount on the sear housing. Never had any issue yet other than the cold, which I use oil instead of the grease,
  9. You may still have inconsistencies with CCI primers and a 14# spring, I bought the PD hammer spring kit, 10# up to 15.5#, with the 10 pound spring it made for a very nice trigger, but could not even set off federal primers consistently with a titan hammer and FPB removed, ended up putting the stock one in again for now(16#) just so I could light off everything, didn’t seem to change the trigger pull weight all that much with all the other things I’ve done to the gun. In fact after I put in the PD sear spring and extreme sear Iam now down to my lowest trigger pull yet at 2.5# with
  10. Got the PD Bolo extreme sear and enhanced sear spring and conefit guide rod yesterday, The BOLO will need some fitting, won’t engage the sear so the trigger is dead and the hammer won’t fall, took it out and Iam at 2.5# now but still want to go a tad lighter. Fitting this BOLO seems like it will be a bit of a pain. Anyone have any experience doing this?
  11. Iam also running the henning flat trigger, definitely sounds like you have your issue figured out, I got rid of my factory trigger roll pin quite sine time ago, I now use one from the local hardware store, length was perfect and it’s way easier to punch in and out than the factory one.
  12. Well ordered a BOLO and the extreme sear just in case, that paired with the other parts I’ll see if I can’t get it to my desired 2.5#
  13. Contacted my Tanfoglio dealer here in Canada and was told they are for the US market only, Iam in love with them and would love to get one someday.
  14. Your videos are the ones I followed when polishing the parts, other than the sear housing as mentioned, which I will do here shortly, My plunger head/bar are extremely shiny and smooth along with my trigger bar and contact points, I could maybe try and smooth out the plunger hole some more, With the stock plunger spring the Henninng trigger would absolutely not reset even with the heaviest return spring on the trigger, too much upward force into the trigger bar, didn’t seem to matter how smooth it was. As mentioned I have the Titan hammer and have my FPB re
  15. Bought the trigger second hand, it only came with one trigger return spring, hence why I had to clip some coils off the stock plunger spring, once the new kit gets here ill try each of them. I’ll polish up the sear cage and the holes and the pin here tonight and see how that goes.
  16. Thanks Bill! I did polish the crap out of everything, I think the only thing I didn’t do was the sear cage! hopefullt this PD sear spring will put me a tad lower!
  17. Hey guys, been on this forum for a little while now, great place for Tanfoglio advice, it seems info is very limited outside of this site, When I bought this pistol I knew nothing about Tanfoglio other than I liked the looks of it, did not know it was a tinkerer’s special, which is totally fine with me, I love to tinker! Just didn’t think it would need as much work as it did given the price! I thought I would share what I’ve done to my stock 3 since I got it last year. And a few photos in good lighting Feel free to share and tips or advice! Ta
  18. It doesn’t come anywhere close to the stopping after the trigger breaks, I would guess I still have 3mm or more or travel before the trigger stops, but when/if I do find a longer screw I’ll be sure to leave an extra turn in it.
  19. Anyone know the size of the set screw for the over travel? I would like to put a longer one in, The screw isn’t long enough for me to set the trigger where I want it, so I have it loctite’d as far down as I feel comfortable with knowing it won’t work itself loose and come out.
  20. Ran 50 rounds through it last Tuesday at a practical night, not one hiccup with the 7lb spring, ran and felt awesome. I have polished my rails, not to a mirror but wayyyy better than factory.
  21. Iam currently running a 7lb spring in a stock 3 9mm Small frame, still in the testing phase. I have 6,7,8,10 and stock to mess around with, shooting light 147gr loads
  22. Honestly nothing surprises me with Tanfoglio, my trigger was very gritty until I took all the parts out and polished them to a mirror, I had to send my stock III back twice because the special edition nickel finish was terrible, the first gun I could scratch off with a fingernail, second gun looked the texture of leather and was really bumpy, and the third gun looked good and has been holding up great, they do take a lot elbow grease to get them where you want it seems.
  23. I see Iam late to this topic and you didn't get many replies, I would tread with caution if you haven't done this yet, if you remove too much of the lip inside the shell tube the follower can cockeye sideways and sometimes come right out of the tube, watched my buddy screw up his $2400 shotgun this way, you can see you've already started to hit the mag tube in your bottom photo, some guys do remove a slight amount of the tube lip and have it run reliable, but too much like you see in the M2 photos of Taran's and you'll be looking at a VM paper weight.
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