Daemunx1

Apologies, I'm still pretty new to USPSA. From what I've read .45 is the usual choice for limited divisions and at the moment of writing that's what I was thinking about. I've just been doing my homework on the rules, getting a a minimum gear setup put together and working on my shooting skills. I'm hoping to get into my first match later this month along with a local service pistol marksmanship league.

Will the bull barrels fit in a vtac or normal full size slide? If so I could def see them being used in those. (Edit) Just read the product info that they will not fit. Cant use ported barrels unless you run open which probably isnt all that common in 9mm so dont see them being particularly usefull either.

Just the med I assume? I think I've also seen those elsewhere at $99.

I’m finding that I’m not too fond of the fibre front sight on my x5. My eyes (at an indoor range) just aquire the dot of the night sights on my other pistols much quicker. Would I be correct in assuming that pretty much any front sight made for sigs will fit the slot? Or as mentioned above, that sights for an xd will fit as well? Thinking trying a basic sig white dot front in size 8. Opinions? I’m not sure given the rear sight dimensions that it’ll even work.

Recieved my large 320 grip module and 17 round mags today. It also comes with a new slide release lever made to fit in the protected release area on the standard 320. I’m really happy with it. It feels much more round and comfortable than the x5 grip and the contoured thumb area is more stable (imo) for 1 hand shooting. Looking inside the magwell there seems to be an area for a grip weight like the x5 but its squared off where the x5 is actually partially enclosed. I tried seeing if the weight would work but it was a no go with that fully open channel. It seems like something that could easily be achieved as an aftermarket product though. Taking it to the range today. I may hold onto the x5 grip for limited division shooting with the magwell or if I really prefer the standard grip I might think of getting rid of it. When/if they ever come out with a large x5 module I’ll definetly make the switch.

Too late ordered the full size grip today. Plan is to use the x5 grip for limited and just swap over to the full size for production.

Would like to have a more beefy grip on my 320x5. Currently sig only offers the x5 full size grip module in medium so I’m wondering if the standard fullsize 320 module will work fine with a x5 slide and barrel and if the 21 round mags will fit fine.

Gotcha. Have you tried straigt from sig? Might have to call but I imagine they should be able to send you one.

Single allen screw on the rear of the grip. As for keeping it, why would you get rid of it? I cant imagine many gun owners are in the habit of just throwing out parts. Its not something you can just throw on another 320 btw. Not unless its an x5 grip module.

I wonder how many of those issues with old ball ammo were due to using ammo loaded 20 years ago I would hope they used fresh ammo for testing but I know when I was in the service finding really old rounds was hardly uncommon. As for the ejection issue, how in the world do you even eject 2 rounds at once? That must have been some early design issue fixed a long time ago.

No one said there was no issue. I said I believe it to have been blown out of proportion. There are some ppl still act as if its still an issue when in fact it was addressed a long time ago and thanks to the way the rumor mill works things like the aforementioned "trouble with fmj" come into existence that were never even an issue to begin with so far as I've seen referenced. I only referenced "all one of him" in response to "Only by the people who got shot" which while probably not intentional was a bit of an exaggeration.

All one of him? A case which from all I can find hasnt been concluded and based on sigs investigation had something to do with the ammo being used. Ofc they arent likely to just roll over and say “our bad” but none the less facts are the 320 had passed all required drop tests before hand. If you wanna start hitting things with hammers then youre hardly being realistic. Its like the youtube bozos who launch pistols out of catapults and throw them at steel plates to test “durability.”

Nothing in there about fmj. I think the whole drop safety issue was massively over blown. Probably largely by people annoyed by the thought of a polymer, strike fired service pistol.

Problem is actually getting one

Removed the striker assembly from the slide and cleaned out inside the housing and used a brush to clean up the assembly. Its was surprisingly dirty in there considering how long I’ve had the gun. Recieved a sample of lucus oils extreme and put a couple tiny dabs in the assembly and on the flat surfaces of the striker safety and that takeup grit is completely gone now. (Ordered some lucas oil, the difference between that stuff and a bottle of hoppes from wallyworld is substantial) Only gripe remaining now is the amount of pretravel and lack of any real wall with a crisp break. As I mentioned in another thread you can feel the sear sliding off the striker then just feel it come free. Theres no solid wall feel just before break. Just a kind of smooth roll off. That combined with the rather long pretravel just makes for an odd feeling trigger. It almost feels like theres a neutral engagement angle between sear and striker as opposed to a positive angle. I’m planning now to try an apex trigger bar to reduce travel and see how that feels and (maybe) using a stone to add a very slightly more positive engagement. Dont really mind if the pull weight goes up a little. I would just prefer that snap at break instead of the rounded feeling.

What reports? I’ve put about 1k rounds of nothing but fmj and I’ve had one (user induced) failure to feed.

Its definetly a different break than I’m used to. With my other pistols they have a distinct wall before break. A light takeup followed by a solid resistance where the trigger doesnt really move at all. You just increase weight on it till it breaks crisply. My x5 has typical light takeup then resistance increases but theres never really a wall. The weight is just there and you can feel the sear sliding free of the striker till it slips off. My only guess is that its to do with the sear/striker geometry. With a trigger guage I would guess it would read quite light but its pull weight is spread out over a range instead of concentrated right before the break. My other pistols are a hk vp9, springfield xd, sw m&p shield and a beretta px4. All of them feel fairly similar. Some more/less crisp and heavier/lighter, but the x5 is a much different beast.

Theres definetly some friction between the striker safety and walls of striker assembly. I plan to take it out and polish up the flats surfaces where they rub and see if it helps. The spring in there is tiny so I put off doing it till I got a pick set. I got that last week so perhaps later this week I’ll get around to it.

And those guys know what theyre doing, how to do it and how to test it afterwards. Ppl reading forums and making the changes themselves with a dremel dont. I suppose if someone screws up their gun and shoots themselves or someone else based on bad advice your ok with that? I’ve never seen anyone who knows anything about firearms recommend dyi gunsmiths screw with grinding out sear angles and removing springs from safeties. Anyway, youre free to make whatever recommendations you want, ppl should also hear that there are limits to what they should be doing at home and that they risk damaging their firearm or creating a safety hazard if they screw it up.

I hope it does work and remains safe for you. I dont mean to come across as disrespectful its just that advising ppl to remove material from sear engagement surfaces and tampering with safeties isnt a good idea. Someones gonna end up w a full auto, a ruined gun or a negligent homicide when their gun goes off when dropped or fires unintentionally due to bad sear angles. Its just not the kind of things most ppl need to be messing with.

Have polished things up a little better and installed the pelt2 now. I’ve noticed now that I can see the sear beginning to move through the rear of the slide so what creep thats left is indeed comming from the sear and striker friction. Its surprising with how little engagement area there is to begin with how much pull is required in order to release the striker. I’m really spoiled by my powder river river trigger on my xd. It has an even larger contact area between the sear and striker yet it has much looser takeup with a solid defined wall and crisp break. Must have a lot to do with the geometry and how much sear movement comes from a given amount of trigger movement. At this point I’m just waiting for ggi to start selling the competition trigger parts seperately so I can pick up one of their sears. I also got my guide rod and spring set installed. Tried as low as a 12lb spring but had a fail to feed. 13 pounds fed ok but felt like the slide was snapping back too fast. I ended up stick with the 14# as upward recoil feels most natural and theres virtually no dip on recovery. Using 125 speer lawman factory ammo as I found it to be the highest grain/lowest power factor/lowest cost point I could get my hands on. Got 1000 rnds for $189. Certainly not match ammo but I’d rather be able to afford thousands of rounds of practice over overpriced ammo that isnt gonna make me a better shooter.

So you neutraled the angle on the striker and tampered with a safety... sorry but thats advice not to to give.

I’d say that most likely those open ones have just been played around with enough that the trigger feels a little more broken in. I’ve done some polishing to mine and added a pelt2 and still nothing seems to effect how it feels more than continuing to work the trigger. Both dry and at the range.

Why would you remove a safety related spring for an oz as opposed to a sear spring for potentially more? Why even remove anything if your pull is already at 3.5 lbs? Although you say “the safety is working” it doesnt necessarily mean you still have the same drop protection you should have. If they put it there I doubt it was just for the heck of it. Your gun, your call ofc. I just wouldnt do that any more than I'd shave off a chunk of a sear.

If I’m not mistaken that spring wasnt there before the voluntary recall/upgrade. Prior to that I’ve seen videos showing that it could rotate up and down freely with no resistance. Also from what I’ve read most ppl actually recieved their post upgrade gun with a lighter pull than it left with. If sig felt that it was benefitial to safety to add it and they were able to do so without increasing trigger pull then it should be left alone. For competition purposes removing that spring may even qualify as modifying the guns safety mechanisms which would disqualify the gun. (Specifically I believe its says you may not disable any safety mechanism, whether or not removing that spring disables at least some aspect of the mechanism is something that imo shouldnt be risked)