George16
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Posts posted by George16
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1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:
Thanks. Also a good idea.
For those who operate in this manner is there an issue when there is a hiccup In a pull of the handle? The nice thing about the ratchet system is it holds the head in place while you can assess what happened or what is causing the issue. In my eyes that prevents a lot of double loads and/or under charged loads.
By the way we need to have an Reloading room ugly curtain contest judged by the moderators.
Heh! That’s my choice of the Aloha spirit for a curtain
. I think I had too much of a good time when I was stationed at Pearl Harbor back in the 90’s.
Anyway, to answer your question. I still have to encounter any issues without the ratchet system. Besides, if I ever have an issue, I pull out all the cases, troubleshoot, fix the problem and start over again. I also have cameras looking over the cases for powder and another underneath to check for primer in the cases.
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I cut off the lower part of the ratchet mechanism and use it as a spacer. No need to be spending money buying a piece aluminum bar. It works perfect and it’s actually made for it
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Here’s a pic:
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1 hour ago, Cuz said:
If you guys are not using the ratchet, why not just cut off the ratchet part and use the top portion as the spacer?
And that’s exactly what I did after receiving and setting up my RL1100. It works really good.
I still have an extra ratchet with the extra tool head I bought if I decide to reinstall it in the future (I don’t think I will though
).
Here’s a pic.
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The only way to find out for sure is for you to do a plunk and spin test with the rounds you’re planning to use.
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6 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:
What’s the PF for this load?
130 PF
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4.0 Gr Sport Pistol with 124 Gr PD JHP @ 1.125” OAL.
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I had better luck using 0000 steel wool. I have plenty of it since it’s what I use to clean the frets on my guitars.
If it’s effective yet delicate enough to clean the frets of a $4k guitar, it’s good enough for a $30 powder funnel
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21 minutes ago, hlsccsfa said:
might be off topic, but do you find the 11.5# main spring reliable in popping the primers? most of the S2 users I know of uses 13lbs main spring, since they don't always have federal primers...
No problems lighting off all the primers I have used such as CCI, Winchester and Remington. I was even using small rifle primers at some point and everything worked.
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On 9/2/2021 at 6:43 PM, HOGRIDER said:
George, moto:
Do you guys prefer a certain supplier's recoil springs for the CZ?
CZ-USA/CZ Custom?
CGW?
Thanks!
No preference. I have both and they work well.
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9 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:
IHAVE:
I saw this also; and decided I'd contact Angus about barrel reaming.
Thanks for your feedback!
It all depends on the CZ model. For comparison, my TSO and Czechmate barrels can accommodate up to 1.155” OAL using the same type of bullet (124 Gr PD, 125 Gr BB RN, RMR 147 TCFP) but my shadow 2 barrel can only accommodate up to 1.110” for the PD 124/BB 125 RN. For the RMR 147 TCFP, max was 1.104” OAL.
I didn’t like how short I would have to load the 147 so I decided to just use the Precision Delta 124 JHP since that the bullet I use the most for my guns and PCC anyway.
Keep in mind also that the shadow 2 barrels are hardened compared to the TSO/czechmate which are not hardened. I had @MemphisMechanicream my czechmate barrels so I can load up to 1.170” OAL and there wasn’t any change in accuracy at all while keeping my shadow 2 barrel stock.
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1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Two pass processing is all starting to make more sense to me. Looking at Johnny’s set up he is depriming and resizing multiple times and swaging on his first tool head that will support all 9mm rounds that he will then process based on a dedicated tool head for each set up.
Johnny - correct me if I am wrong but your “loading” toolheads utilize the following steps (stations)
1 - Drop case
2 - Empty
3 - The M die for belling the case (and swage hold down if necessary)
4 - Priming
5 - Powder drop (case is already belled by M die so powder funnel only has to go ever so slightly into the case mouth opening to drop the charge)
6 - MBF
7- Seat
8 - Crimp
Am I close to being correct?
Mark, that’s pretty much my setup for reloading processed brass. Instead of an M die, I’m using a Dillon hold down die (works like the M die) and a Redding comp seating die.
It’s the tool head on the left. If I had to use a different powder, I just remove the existing powder measure and install another with a different powder in it.
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16 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Balakay - Get you one of these De-priming dies from Will at FW Arms - I have both and LOVE the Primer Popper model because it is spring loaded. Take a few minutes to read reviews and watch a few videos on his de-priming dies. He also makes undersized pins that will allow you to de-prime this brass using your standard single stage or progressive reloader…
https://fwarms.com/product-tag/decapping/
I had those .08” pins installed on both of my FW Arms auto-centering decapper. So far, I haven’t broken any using them with for processing 9mm and .223 cases. Will of FW Arms actually sent me a package of .054” pins for free because the Auto centering decapper’s (on the left of my picture) threaded body wasn’t black-coated like they normally would be.
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TSO sale...
in CZ
The DWX is finally arriving
.
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4 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Balakay - Get you one of these De-priming dies from Will at FW Arms - I have both and LOVE the Primer Popper model because it is spring loaded. Take a few minutes to read reviews and watch a few videos on his de-priming dies. He also makes undersized pins that will allow you to de-prime this brass using your standard single stage or progressive reloader…
https://fwarms.com/product-tag/decapping/
I can vouch for these decapping dies. I have both the original and primer popper versions and they decap the Normas without any problem. Then they get sized with my Lee Udie and Redding sizer.
I used them on my 1100 to process 9mm and .223 brass.
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You can videotape yourself while shooting so you can see how much is the muzzle dipping or lack thereof. Using a timer will add objectivity when doing your tests and experiment.
I mainly go for the speed of the dot coming back coupled with the least or lack of muzzle dip. I’m also using 11# recoil spring and 11.5# main spring with 130-132 PF loads using 124 Gr PD JHP and 4.0 of sport pistol.
There will always be a muzzle flip but the more you can minimize it, the better it will be.
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I have used and loaded the Norma without any problems. The old guys I shoot with (and don’t reload) had been using a lot of Norma 9mm and always gave me their brass since it once-fired.
Not sure about the T unless it means “toxic” because of the primer composition. Some brass like federal and Winchester have the “NT” designation for non-toxic.
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5 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
George - Thanks for posting this photo. I just checked and my local Lowes has this in stock. Gonna pick up a can on my next trip there and give this a try….Thanks Again for posting this as I remember using the black graphite powder also on the wheels of my boys PWD cars. That slick black dust stuff got all over everything…..
You’re welcome Mark. Sorry I forgot to say that I bought it from Lowe’s.
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49 minutes ago, Cuz said:
is that the powder stuff my kids used to put on their car axles back when they did the Pinewood Derby stuff?Yes. You can also use the aerosol type like this one
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I made dummy rounds for dry fire using RTV silicone sealant on the primer pockets, filled it up with some of my daughter’s play dough and 124 Gr bullets to mimic the 190 Gr weight of my actual ammo. I also painted it red so differentiate and always kept away from my live ammo.
Heres a pic
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3 hours ago, Cuz said:
Correction, I just went back and read the manual, and watched some of Dillon's maintenance videos on the 1100 and 1050. I now know that what I thought was "lightly" greasing is closer to 10 times more than it should have been. That explains a lot about how messy things were getting.
I’m using a thin coat of dry graphite lube underneath the plate and ring. The dry lube prevents dirt from sticking to it like the dry lube they use on bicycle chains and sprockets.
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Make sure all stations are full (with cases) on them when setting up your OAL. If not, there will be a lot of variation as you have already experience. As for the primer seating, clean the cup and make sure the anvil is free of debris and lined up/aligned properly.
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They’re also MIM parts so they’re not as strong as billet ones (if you can find billet ones).
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1 hour ago, cooper8172 said:
Thanks. The trimmer is a Dillon RT1500 and it’s brand new along with the cutter blade. All I can think is maybe too much lube. I’ll have to try again with less. I only use two pumps for about 200-250 cases. Maybe I’ll cut back on that. Fingers crossed!
Let the cases sit for a few minutes to let the alcohol evaporate. There will be a thin film of case lube left on the cases to prevent them from getting stuck in the trim die yet not much for them to be spinning around.
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That sucks. Dusty Hill and now Charlie Watts.
RIP Mr Watts.
Issues with RL1100
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
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