George16
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Posts posted by George16
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I second buying the Ammobrass Swage setter. I bought the 9mm/.223 and setting the Swage rod has never been easier.
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48 minutes ago, SnipTheDog said:
Really? That sounds like it's not possible.
I meant to say, “can’t” hence my additional info about using graphite instead.
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You cant anodize plastic. What I did on mine was buff the inside with graphite which also prevent the powder from clumping or clinging to the side.
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39 minutes ago, Howar438 said:
George: Thanks for the tip on the OT screw I actually haven’t adjusted that at all. I’m debating pulling it out altogether.
You’re welcome.
I removed the overtravel screws on my shadow 2, TSO and Czechmate. It’s just one thing that might mess up during a match.
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I have the same setup on my shadow 2. T5 disco, 11.5# hammer spring, 11# recoil spring. The test you did after your final fitting might work but the only way you can be certain it works without any problems is to go to the range and shoot it.
By the way, make sure you back out on the pre and over travel screws while doing the test after fitting the he T5. Once you know the T5 is fitted and the gun works well, then you can adjust the pre and over travel screws to your liking.
Good luck.
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The big bin just sits on top of the black bar. I had the same complaints re ammo bin so I just drilled a hole through it and the bar so I can install a pin to secure it in place.
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2 hours ago, Intheshaw1 said:
That makes sense for pistol, I use my eyeballs. But what about for rifle where it's not as easy to see in to?
I have to reposition the camera lens in order get a good view of the rifle case. I processed and load .223 on my 1100 and so far , so good.
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1 hour ago, boatdoc173 said:
^^ this is the method I use and I do it a few days before I load so the lube dries. I use hornady one shot--zero issues so far
This is the same process I do except I made my own case lube by mixing 1 part lanolin to 12 parts of HEET (the one in a red plastic bottle).
After reloading, I tumble the reloaded rounds in corn cob for 10-15 minutes to remove any excess case lube. So far, so good.
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I think you are expanding the case way too deep. On my 1100, I’m using an FW Arms auto-centering Swage foot die that holds the case in place without expand the case mouth. The case is then flared to accept the 124 JHP from PD using the MBF powder funnel. Doing it this way allows for no bullet setback on my reloaded ammo.
Additionally, I also use a Lee U-Die, Redding comp seating due and Lee FCD.
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7 hours ago, Cuz said:
Isn't that how it's supposed to be setup?
MBF on station 6
Seating die on 7
Crimp on 8
That's what I plan to do if I ever get mine set up.
Yup.
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There are no complications with my setup having the MBF on station 6. Seating and crimping are done separately. Station 7 has the Redding competition seating die and the Lee FCD on station 8. Not sure about what you meant by station 7.
Here’s a pic:
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40 minutes ago, Blackstone45 said:
Yes I'm using the RN side of the Dillon seating die.
I'll look into the MBF powder funnel, I assume that it just replaces the Dillon powder funnel thing and flares the case mouth in a way that allows bullets to seat straighter?
Yes, the MBF funnel replaces the Dillon powder funnel. It works well in my 1100 setup.
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5 minutes ago, Sen said:
I just bought a cz chechmate and got some problem
What’s your problem? It’ll help if you tell us what it is
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1 hour ago, Cuz said:
Thanks for all the feedback. I'll definitely start by mounting it directly to the counter, and then see which handle position works best. Since it will only load 9mm I don't think I need to worry about needing more torque to work the handle in the short position.
It's odd that Dillon chose not to make the front of the press straight across so it would be easy to align with the front of the bench top. Now I have to eyeball it to try and get it straight.
Maybe in a couple of years if primer prices become reasonable again I may even consider automating it with the Mark 7 autodrive. I think those just sit on the bench and don't get bolted down at all. But that's a long way off.
There was a template inside the box that came with my 1100. I used that to mark the spots to drill for the mounting bolts.
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I think the setup will be too high on with the riser considering your bench is already at 37”. Mock it up and see how it works before finalizing your setup.
By the way, do you plan on sitting down or standing while reloading? This is significant in how you mount your machine.
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59 minutes ago, Cuz said:
Damn, that’s a good question. I was so wrapped up on where I was going to mount it that I never thought to consider if the height was high enough. And I even had the handle in to verify it would clear the front of the counter. I’ll have to measure the height when I get home tonight and also put the handle back in to see if the height will work or if I want to bump it up with the 4” riser plate. Damn, what an idiot I am. Sometimes I get too focused on a tree and don’t see the forest.
If I were you, I’d mount it directly to the bench. Take a look at the picture I posted showing the 550 and 1100 on my bench. The 550 is mounted on an Inline Fab 4” riser while the 1100 is mounted directly to the bench. My bench is 30” from the floor to the top.
This setup is perfect for the regular-sized bar stool I’m using.
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On 6/1/2021 at 8:11 PM, B_RAD said:
I'm having an issue on my 1050. The rim of the case is getting gouging/marred and its causing the case not to fail the case gauge.
I've switched sizing does. It's still happening. I tried to clean out the shell plate where the cases sit. It's still happening. I tested out about 30 cases before running them in the press. I turned them upside down and all the case rims would fit in the gauge. Then ran them all thru station 2 to resize. Each case gauged. Then rant them thru the press and tried to gauge the loaded rounds and 3 failed with the gouging.
I guess it could be another station but not sure how. The shell plate pockets seem to be clear of debris.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
I second the post re checking the swage bar. I had that happen using my 1100 when I didn’t notice that my Swage bar loosened up and was protruding in the shell plate more than it need to while processing .223 brass. In fact, I broke the shell plate (the rim that holds the case in place) because I went ahead and pulled the press handle as hard as I could thinking it was only a crimped primer pocket when in fact it was the Swage bar pushing the case higher than it need to be.
I called Dillon and let them know what happened and they replaced the broken shell plate free of charge.
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2 hours ago, Cuz said:
Thanks for the pic. Is that post to the left of your press in back for the bullet feeder? I was hoping to mount mine at the left edge of my countertop centering the main part of the press about 13” from the edge. I also have a filing cabinet against the end of the counter. I think it should fit, I may have to assemble a few parts of the press before I bolt it down to test fit the location.
Yes, it’s the MBF mounting post.
You can put the mounting post for the billet feeder where the brown box is at. This way, it’s in the corner away from everything so you can maximize your bench space.
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3 hours ago, Cuz said:
So I finally got around to unboxing my RL1100 and I’m trying to decide where along my bench to mount it. It looks like just the handle is on the right side and everything else is on the left. I do plan to mount a Mr. Bullet feeder to the case feeder.
so, for those of you manually running an RL1100, which side do you need more room on? I have about a 32” wide area of bench and I don’t know if I should center it or favor it over more to the left or right?
Thanks,
Cuz
I mounted mine on the right side of the bench. I did it this way so I can install the MBF on separate mount (1” dia. black pipe towards the back).
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2 hours ago, Squirrel45 said:
Do you think the ipsc store or DA are a close facsimile to the factory tape ones ?
Yes.
You can also buy the CZ Custom grips with the grip tape.
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I agree with @regor. The new Czechmate I bought last year had the aluminum grips whereas the 2018/2019 version a couple of friends bought a couple of years ago had the grip tape on it.
Having handled and shot both versions of the grips, I personally like the grip tape version better than the all aluminum grips. In fact, I sold my all aluminum grips and replaced them with the grip tape version from CZ custom.
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25 minutes ago, outerlimits said:
interesting. i DM'd both RO's and that's not what i was told. bottom line the shooter's home club allowed a certain action which is against the rules. level 2 ain't playing around. troy & carl both there so call was legit.
So did the RO who called the DQ tell you exactly the reason why the shooter got DQ’ed? What’s so hard about posting the main reason why he DQ’ed the shooter?
It’ll help other shooters from doing the same mistake if only the main reason is laid out in the open. Instead, we now have five pages when one page could had been enough to talked about and learn from it.
Unfortunately, this is akin to talking to lawyers and politicians who can’t even give a straight yes or no answer when asked
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5 minutes ago, Jollymon32 said:
AWESOME!
I won't have to deal with the absurd pomposity of a self absorbed individual. The individual's perceived importance, however delusional, was good for a laugh. Until the pity kicked in....
Amen to that
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FW Arms Decapping Die Review
in General Reloading
Posted
If you put the sizing die on station 3, it’ll also act as a Swage hold-down die. The “neck expanding” will be taken care of by the MBF powder funnel.
Im using an FW Arms primer popper decapping which is self-centering to prevent crush cases.