George16
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Posts posted by George16
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12 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Thanks George for providing this picture…One final question for you if you know, if not, if someone else here may explain this…
In reading this thread am I reading this correctly the fail safe rod can be completely removed from your Dillon system if you use springs similar to what George is showing here and the powder drop will work as intended….Mark
Yes. With this powder measure setup on my 1100 or 550, the fail safe rod is removed or disconnected because there’s no need for it. The springs do the job of the fail safe rod by making sure the bar always returns to it original position.
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On 7/17/2021 at 8:31 PM, Sigarmsp226 said:
If anyone has a photo they can share of their spring set up I would appreciate it….This has my attention now…Thanks Mark
Here’s my old powder measure with the return springs. I’m using this setup to load major ammo on my 1100.
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1 hour ago, Stevetford said:
I have a powder funnel that I believe is similar to the Mr. Bullet feeder made by Uniquetek. Makes for very easy bullet seating but neck tension is absolutely gone so it’s back in the package under my bench. I may go back and look at the Mr. Bullet funnel again.
Sizing dies are kind of hard to find right now, what others do you suggest besides the U die?The Redding sizing die is the closest you can get in comparison to the Lee U-die. I have both of the in 9mm and can hardly tell the difference after they size the case. I also don’t get any bulletin setback using either one of them.
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The barrel is not hardened at all. I had my barrels reamed without any problems. I also chased the threads on both the barrel and comp but be careful. Do it in small increments and test fit often.
Before you do any thread chasing, double check to make sure the reverse plug is installed properly and there are not dirt or debris inside.
By the way, have you tried threading the comp into the barrel all the way while they’re out of the slide to check if there are enough threads on both?
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13 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
S J Briggs - Your comments are interesting to me. I am going to de-prime 100 pieces of 9mm brass, wet clean (to get those primer pockets spotless) and then load to see if the primer insertion/seating is significantly easier vs. a dirty primer pocket…Thanks for sharing your process….Mark
If you have the 1050/1100 or another brand of progressive press with swaging capability, it’s a non-issue re easier seating of primers. The Swage station (as long as it’s setup properly) will swage the primer pocket making it easier to properly seat the primers. The swage bar tip radius’s the primer pocket to guide the primer into the pocket and making it easier for seating.
Edit- it makes sense on a 650/750 because it doesn’t have a swaging capability.
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1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:
If you intend to process a lot of 223 save the pennies and get a 1050 or 1100 like mentioned above. The swaging functionality of those presses makes them worth the extra cost. They are also designed to swage as mentioned above. Processing 223 brass in one pass with the Dillon or similar brass trimmer is amazing. Plus you can make 300 Blackout brass from 223 brass with that setup if you choose. If choose to convert 223 brass to 333 Blackout do your homework on what brass to use for this.
This. I was breaking the ring indexer left and right processing a bunch load of .223 brass. And this was just doing it manually. I could only imagine if my 650 (sold it after getting the 1100) was automated.
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3 hours ago, Cuz said:
Hey George,I’m rereading this thread (again) and have a question.
On your processing toolhead, any reason why you wouldn’t swap the last two sizing does so that the Redding die goes first and the Lee undersize die for after that???
Would it put less strain on the press/brass to size it down in steps that way?
otherwise, in your config, why not skip the Redding sizing die altogether and just put the decapping pin in the undersize die?
I am asking because I’m considering multiple sizing/decapping steps in my processing setup and thought that sizing in steps from regular then undersize might be better.
but, I may also just be over analyzing things.
thanks.
Cuz, both dies size almost the same and since I had the Redding at the last station originally to make sure all the primers were removed, I was just too lazy to swap them so I installed the Udie on the 7th station. .001” difference is not noticeable at all.
Other than that, no particular reason at all.
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19 hours ago, lfine said:
Like my palm swell bogies elsewhere but for my TSO just want to keep the same thickness but get the most aggressive grips - would those be standard or thin? Thanks
You email LOK grips and let them know you want the same thickness of the TSO grips. He can do custom thickness on any style you want.
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13 hours ago, Squirrel45 said:
thanks guys for the help, Dumb question is there any issue ordering from them being that their overseas?
No, not at all. I have ordered some parts from the IPSC store and Seboweapons without any problems. It took almost three weeks due to Customs and COVID-19.
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Just order the mag release from the IPSC store unless you want to grind, drill and tap the stock one like I did on mine a couple of years ago before these became available.
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Every time I remove the primer slide assembly for cleaning, I don’t touch, move or remove it by loosening the nut. Instead, I use an Allen wrench and loosen the set screw instead. Doing it this way keeps the adjustment the same when it’s time to put it back on.
I also inscribed a mark on the shell plates and it corresponds to the detention ball spring so it also goes back the same relative position. So far it has been working very well for me.
I clean the whole machine after processing either 9mm or .223 brass (roughly every 5k cases).
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I put this strap on my feet prior to sleeping to help stretch my plantar. So far it has been good.
Copper Compression Plantar Fasciitis Night Splint Sock
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4.0 Sport pistol with Precision Delta 124 Gr JHP for 138-142 PF on my MPX.
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4 hours ago, Johnnymazz said:
Dont waste your money, if the press is set up properly theres no need for all those powder pufff add ons. Service the machine on a regular basis and keep it clean during loading
Oh trust me, I don’t need it. My press is setup correctly, cleaned and serviced on a regular basis.
It’s for this reason I don’t also need the threaded shell plate for the primer station.
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2 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - Not trying to derail your thread but my question is related to setting up the RL1100….
Many years ago I purchased and still use the bearing kit for my XL650 that helped reduce the powder spillage issues. I also cut my detent spring down and replaced the ball with a delrin (spelling) ball. Everything still works great….. So to my question…
I see that there is a bearing upgrade kit for the RL1100. I am not experiencing any powder spillage but it is because I am loading “powder puff” loads…Has anyone upgraded their RL1100 with one of these “under the toolhead” bearing kits and if so are you happy with the results….Thanks Mark
Here is a link to one that I saw at the BSPS site….
The bearing kit is a waste of money.
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6 hours ago, Just4FunLP said:
I’m definitely going to get the Lyman, but I was wondering if I should also get the Dillon as well. Thanks for the help.
Definitely go for it if money is not an issue. It’s nice to have a spare.
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1 minute ago, Just4FunLP said:
Yep, that looks familiar…. Should I go ahead and leave my Dillon die on back order or cancel it? Thanks
Just get the Lyman unless you have the patience to wait for months.
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9 hours ago, dansedgli said:
I've had some trouble with my lee sizing die on my new 750. The case seems to move back a touch after it is pushed into the shellplate and this makes it hit the edge of the die rather than go straight in.
I tried to align everything locking down the dies with the cases in the toolhead with no change.
The dillon die works fine but I'm wondering if there is a fix I am not seeing. I'd like to use the lee die and leave the dillon setup on my 1050.
This is what happens if the Camming Pin is not adjusted properly. Make sure it’s properly adjusted.
The procedure is outlined on page 46 of your manual. If this is not properly adjusted, the case will be “jammed in” and bounce back or get “tilted”.
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It’s not that difficult for me. I clean my shadow 2 after every match or at least once a week.
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I highly recommend getting the CGW floating trigger pin to replace the roll pin for your trigger. Do a test and if it still fails, then remove just a little bit more from the disco.
CGW floating trigger pin
Good luck.
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Comptac.
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Can’t see any pics. Email or message it to me and I’ll post it for you.
Bullet set back
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
I have used that Redding sizing die and it sizes like the Lee U-die. In fact, I have it setup in tandem with my Lee U-die since it was just an extra and it was already on there prior to buying a Lee u-die thinking it make a huge difference but it didn’t.
Lee Udie without the decapping pin and Redding carbide sizing die on my 9mm processing tool head on the left.