George16
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Posts posted by George16
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Hit the “edit” button under the shooters name to change or edit anything pertaining to the shooter.
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You can buy those shoulder bolts from your local Ace hardware. That’s where I bought all of the shoulder bolts I needed ( feed, swage etc).
As for the shellplate not rotating into place on the last 1/4” each of its travel, adjust the eccentric bolt at the back of the RL1100. That’s what I did when I encountered that problem.
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I had been using the updated (thicker) shell plate for processing brass (9mm, 40, 45 and .223). There’s no flex on the shellplate because of the extra thickness as long as you set it up correctly. I’m glad Dillon beefed their shell plates.
However, the I’d rather spend extra for an FW Arms shellplate. The cutouts for the brass is tighter compared to the Dillon so there’s less wobble especially when I’m processing pistol brass at 3000 cph.
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If you want to save on corn cob, I highly recommend buying them from Zoro. They’re cheaper at $42 for a 40# bag.
This is what I buy and use and never get any problems with pieces stuck in the primer pockets.
https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-blast-media-corn-cob-20-to-40-grit-crn3-40/i/G2165387/
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On 2/7/2024 at 6:41 AM, Blackstone45 said:
Thanks, I will give those springs a try
You can also shorten the spring while waiting for the weaker spring. I tried a shortened spring but decided using the due without the spring because of more consistent OAL.
Give it a try and see what works better for you.
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For processing .223, I have mine set at the following:
rph - 2000
torque - 6
index speed - 2
bottom dwell - 1
top dwell - 0
Loading .223
rph - 1500
torque - 6
index speed - 2
Bottom dwell - 2
top dwell - 1
9mm processing
rph - 2500
torque - 3
index speed 0
bottom dwell - 1
top dwell - 0
reloading 9mm
rph -1500
torque - 3
index speed - 0
bottom dwell - 1
top dwell - 1
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3 hours ago, mmc45414 said:
I am starting to eyeball the rollsizer for pre processing, since it would be automated. Would that reduce/eliminate sizing effort as I am inclined to think it would?
In my experience, resizing of the brass (9mm, 40, 45, .223 etc) was definitely easier and smoother after rollsizing (commercial Rollsizer). There are even instances wherein I do random checks of 9mm brass after just roll sizing and most, if not all are already resized as confirmed through my Dillon 9mm case gauge. It also allowed me to use torque setting number 2 (lowest setting for pistol) on my MK7 Autodrive.
In addition to that, I don’t use as much lube as I used to compared to not having it roll sized especially with rifle cases such as .223.
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1 hour ago, JRM83 said:
I don't understand why all the parts manufacturers and builders are using tiny hex screws instead of torx. I replace the hex screws with torx wherever possible.
To cut costs. Hex screws are cheaper than torx screws. Less overhead means bigger profits
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I have great experience with Bondhus brand. Just make sure you don’t buy the imitation products from china.
I have both standard and metric hex in addition to the Torx. The ends haven’t rounded off and still looks new after over 10 years of use.
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4 hours ago, jerseyglock said:
Hello,
I need help on finding out mounting screw thread pitch for Romeo1, thanks. Sig support doesn't have the answer for it.
6-48 screw
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Or go to your local ACE store. They even have stainless steel metric bolts, screws, washers etc. that’s where I got mine and it’s cheaper compared to McMaster Carr or Boltsdepot.com unless you’re buying in bulk.
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I second @dapribek suggestion of a Volquartsen pistol. I have a 6” black mamba and it’s a dream to shoot with.
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Buy it.
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10 hours ago, Austjoe said:
I have both, rollsizer by far the best
In your experience, what made the Rollsizer better than the DaVinci? Thanks.
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14 minutes ago, RGC said:
Trying to find info on this......a Shotshow announcement?
Announced at show 2023, Holosun SCS 320 which has the same footprint of the DPP and Trijicon RMR.
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26 minutes ago, stephenmcrna said:
Anybody familiar with history of mark 7? I’m curious when it will be “safe” to buy the genesys. I’m sure there will be some kinks to work out.
MK7 has been bought and now owned by Lyman products.
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I had been using this Shoiters Connectionmslide racker. The shiny version is out of stock but you can sand it smooth if you want too.
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Since you’ll eventually reloading other rifle calibers, I highly suggest getting the Hornady lock and Load gage comparator and OAL gage. I bought a set since I reload 5.56, .308 and 6.5CM. It helps a lot and takes away the guesswork in reloading rifle rounds imo.
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I’m using a DAA Racemaster with the TSO insert block. Depending on the type of trigger guard you have, you will need either the TSO or czechmate insert. The insert block work for both the Racemaster and Alpha X holsters.
Heres the guide so you can chose the correct insert for your czechmate:
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1 minute ago, Goat259 said:
Ok. So is the Lee Undersize die a full length sizer? Sorry if it’s obvious, but I don’t know.
Yes.
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I’ll go with Sport Pistol, N320 or titegroup instead of the CFE pistol.
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Just now, Dirty_J said:
I mean. Not for the powder charge. But they still gotta fit and feed out of the mag! Haha.
You’ll be surprised to find out the max length you can get away with with the mags. I measured the mags and longest I can fit in was about 1.194”. However, the bullet might fall out at that length
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5 minutes ago, Dirty_J said:
Ya. I’m familiar with the tune process.
I guess your load is only 0.006” over SAAMI max. Seeing 1.17 caught my attention tho!
What’s SAAMI
? It doesn’t apply for 9major so I don’t worry about SAAMI specs.
upper help
in Rifle - Technical
Posted · Edited by George16
Check out Aero components. Primary Arms is currently having a sale on them. They even have a 16” complete upper for $499.
https://www.primaryarms.com/brand/aero-precision
complete upper.
https://www.primaryarms.com/aero-precision-m4e1-threaded-barreled-upper-556-mid-length-atlas-r-one-16