mpeltier

Hey Amigo, just curious what exactly was the equipment deal breaker for you with respect to limited division? My Tac-optics set up was unchanged from any match I've ever shot with the exception of the 30rd mag rule (which was no biggy to me as that's what I use 90% of the time anyway). What would they have to change to get you to Florida?

Brownells sells them.

My opinions of the two are that a two point configuration is best for general carry and single point is best for shooting, especially if there are weak side and strong side positions. I have found that both methods are useful in 3-gun and have my rifles set up with padded V-Tac slings with HK style clips. This allows a quick change from either a two or single point configuration. Lately I have found the single point more useful especially with an ASAP type mount that gives 100% freedom of movement between shoulders. Adjusted properly it doesn't get in the way of the pistol if you need to transition to it. You do have to be aware of the possibility of the muzzle hitting the dirt. Those type stages may be better with two point. Again, both options are good to have on the table. Up front for two point I have a std swivel that I can clip the HK clip to if I don't want both clips on the ASAP at the stock for single point.

My tac-op rifle with 20"bbl and 1-6 = 10lb 2oz

Depends on what your building exactly and its use. My first question would be what stock are you using. For 3-gun? what forearm? Have you used a sling before? Have you played with single point and two point slings and have a preferance? Do you know the differance and have a preferance based on experiance with either?

Im pretty sure Doug nailed your problem. Go to the thread a couple lines down titled "Gas tube and pin leaking", I gave a few tips there that will help you. Sorry but my "link-fu" sucks and don't know how to do that from my phone.

Have you actually chrono'd that round out of your bbl. I've chrono'd a lot of ammo and yet to get that high a velocity. That's some hot stuff.

Ironman is on my "To do" list. Has MGM always used AR500 on their rifle steel? As I've been thinking about it I recently shot the USCA match here in florida and they had one of those evil spinners. It was close, like 12 yards. I was using my 75gr match loads and no problems. Several on our squad were using xm193 and I saw no apparent cratering on it. They were using 18" guns. Maybee steel is softer on the west coast. Lol

Again, it's not the kinetic energy that damages them. It's the velocity creating heat energy. That's why the craters look like they are melted. I've damaged steel at closer range using XM193. Shot the same steel with 77gr closer and didn't even dimple it.Not all steel is created equal. We use M193 exclusively at work. Our poppers are at 100yds and get shot by more rounds than any public range steel and there is no damage. Mostly just leaves a grey smudge. The poppers are AR500 steel. I believe the issue arises due to inferior steel or mistaken identity of the ammo.Not to keep arguing this, but are you guys using 16" or shorter barrels and have you shot it at 50 yards. There is enough of a velocity difference out of a 16" or less barrel compared to 18" and 20" barrels that are common at 3 Gun matches. There's also a bit of velocity loss by the time you get to 100. As an example, Winchester 55 gr starting off at 3240 is only going 2854 at 100. Figure at least 150 fps of that velocity loss is between 50 and 100. Hitting steel at 2800 fps and not damaging it is really not that difficult. Not arguing, good discussion. Yes we are using 16" guns at work. We are not allowed to shoot steel closer than 100yds for safety concerns. Come to think of it I've not been to a match either that shot rifle steel closer than 100yds. I have however shot the same ammo in my 20" game gun at the same poppers (3150 fps over my chrono) with the same minimal grey smudges. I have shot AR400 steel with the same ammo and noticed some cratering. I often wonder if AR400 is often mistaken for AR500.

High Standard is excellent quality. Sorry have no experiance with RR or Fulton uppers.

Nothing wrong with it. Nothing wrong with 200 zero either. Any zero will work as long as you know what it means at other distances. If a certain zero works with your reticle that's the right one for you.

I wish all my competition used 14.5" Bbls. ?

JP LMOS Bolt assly with adj gas. Always have used a std AR15 steel firing pin. Never had a double or a slam fire. I have had several rifles set up this way and never an issue. Even a Ti Bolt carrier I ran for a while was fine with a std firing pin. Ammo has varied from M193 to my reloads using no 41 primers to factory rem and winchester. All has performed fine. I can not recall if I ever used std small rifle primers or not, nor do I know what factory .223 uses for primers. I do think that softer primers may be the culprit for many who do have issues. A Ti firing pin may be a treatment for that symptom.

Again, it's not the kinetic energy that damages them. It's the velocity creating heat energy. That's why the craters look like they are melted. I've damaged steel at closer range using XM193. Shot the same steel with 77gr closer and didn't even dimple it. Not all steel is created equal. We use M193 exclusively at work. Our poppers are at 100yds and get shot by more rounds than any public range steel and there is no damage. Mostly just leaves a grey smudge. The poppers are AR500 steel. I believe the issue arises due to inferior steel or mistaken identity of the ammo.

What does this gap do? Takes into Account the missing handguard cap with a free float handguard assy. In some cases, especially with some tolerance variation the gas block gas port and bbl gas port don't light up real good.

I dabbled with piston guns for a few years. Two guns were conversions and one was a AA monolithic piston upper. All worked as advertised and the one I built as a game gun was equally as accurate as a piston as it was a DI gun. It also was a flat/soft shooter. More so than a full mass DI gun but not as much as a full LMOS adj gas DI gun. However I had my fun with them, realizing there was no huge gain in anything they did and tired of the uncommon parts issues. All my AR's are now DI again and life is good....

I prefer curved over flat. I find it more intuitive to finding the same spot on the trigger quickly. With the flat I just don't seem to consistently get my finger in the same place every time as it feels the same to me no matter where my finger touches it. The exception to this is the hyperfire with the adjustable red shoe. It's pretty cool and gives a positive index for your finger.

Gas block looks like correct direction to me. It would be helpful if the op gave a few specifics of this rifle. Is it a rifle or carbine gas system? Guessing from the fatty gas tube it's carbine? Well I would recomend you chamfer the gas port hole on the bbl and also on the gas block (by running a drill bit thru the set screw hole by hand) and also allowing a credit card thickness between the shoulder on the bbl and the gas block. Also, do not use lock tite in this area. Absolutely no need, and could potentially do more harm than good. I would clean it thouraghly before doing anything else.

I've got a UBR and tried other mounts on the PRS. None addressed the need or utility of a truly ambidextrous mount such as the ASAP type that allows the sling to transition with you as you transition from strong to weak side and back. As Jesse said, its slick.

So what was the issue, a defect in the scope or a lever added to a scope that may not have been designed for such a device? Why do you feel the new scope will not fare any better, has it failed again?

It's in my iPhone version as CM-RW556

I've been using a sling at work everyday for a few years now and typically for carry I prefer a two point configuration. The last couple of Tac-courses I've run there I converted to a single point configuration and it is for me much easier and faster to actually shoot with, especially when strong side week side transitions are involved. At the recent USCA championship there were several stages with these type of transitions so decided to rig my game gun for single point and give it a go. Unfortunately Magpul makes their nice ASAP for std collapsible stocks (that's what I use at work) but not their PRS stock. So I set out to fix that problem. What do you all think, should Magpul make something like this?

The streelok app will give you all the reticle info you want with any ammo. Check it out.

That's the exact bbl I use (1/7 twist). I love it. Shoots very accurate. I also have a rifle with an 18" and one with a 16", and 20" DMR is my favorite all around bbl for 3-gun. If I could only have one, that would be it.

I had a very good time at this match. Mac, Brian and all the staff and RO's did a terrific job and found out how big a task putting on something like this is. I hope they do it again, ill be there. Thanks to all the staff and sponsors