somebrains

I'm doing mine again too. First time was just a basic level cut. Now I'm going to angle the cut and go a little more forward. It's like plastic surgery for your shotgun. That first little taste just leads to more cutting.

Just remembered something you should take into account while chasing a Benelli. M1 magically fits me. M2 allows for shimming the gun and fitting yourself way easier. A few guys were really off shooting my gun. A lot of available M1 stocks tend to be "tactical" stocks. If I'm missing something about shimming an M1, please chime in.

Here man, I'd probably stop at $1050: http://www.gunbroker.com/item/582865032 I had to buy an M2 forend, that wasn't cheap. My gun came with a flashlight forend. Old M1's have a shell catch people like a lot. I think you can still find them if you look hard enough. Serial# on an M1 is behind the trigger guard so you can really get into the loading port with a tool. M1 uses different chokes. I have a Limbsaver so my 1st event was really no big deal. Before I'd have a big ol gnarly bruise. I've never shot a game day with an M2. I guess if it pounded you a recoil reducing pad of your choice will fix that. I RO'd my event, and I noticed toward the end of the day for the RO (debug) shoot and the regular event the next that guys oiling their rails 1/2 way thru didn't have as many issues as guys that shot the day and started to drag. It kinda put the idea of having my bolt TiN coated. None of the Salient or Taran guns seemed to have as many issues specific to rails drying and bolt dragging. I did notice the following day my choke had unscrewed itself, maybe 1/8". Something to pay attention to the next event i shoot. I guess if you found a 21" or 24" M1 mint under $700, go for it. More than likely the owner loves the gun and it would be the last one he sold.

M1 barrels are hard to find, and none of my buddies wanted to trade their safe anchors, or even lend a forend and barrel so I could game. I got mine cheap a long time ago, reconfiguring a pistol grip + 20" no choke barrel + flashlight as factory = a used M2. I just happened to love my M1 more than was financially smart. I keep guns and cars, and save money on cheap women. Go find a deal on a used M2 that's already done. Save yourself a bunch of headache, time, and $.

Awesome, I'll bring a table vise to adjust it and work on it Saturday. Everyone should be burnt from events, I'll grab a bay and some apparatus to keep me occupied. One stage had a spinning Texas Star no shoot with a Polish plate rack behind it I really enjoyed. Is barrel throating worth having done?

Lead shot, 1 1/8, every spring is new except for extractor spring, I did have to replace the spacer I lost when changing the carrier spring. Recoil spring/stock retaining nut was original flush fit one without flats. So this gun isn't one that got a lot of cleaning or taking down. Not sure what chilled, hardened, shaken, or stirred shot is, shot but I'll pay attention next trip to the store when I buy a case. I will put a bend back in the nose of the TTI lifter. As new I could really feel it while loading. Shell rims were really clicking on the nose, and I straightened it out. Gun is a 12,xxx M1. I was chasing a lot more issues months ago, a lot were ironed out thanks to posts here. It's spent 20 years slitting out high brass buck and slugs. Only recently decided wanted to play games with it instead of being my safe anchor. I've never shot anything lighter than defensive buck until this year out of a shotgun.

Federal #6 lead 1290fps, 7.5 didn't want to run at all. Rio buck ran fine but there were under 10 mandatory buck targets. Federal low recoil slugs were fine. Tried 7.5 AA's, had a bobble. Someone left early so I grabbed a box off them. Remington STS were ok, but I only tried 16 of them. I shot the stages Saturday, RO yesterday. Saw a lot of guns in a 150shot total event. Pump guns really can have fewer problems.

Shot a local match this weekend. Had some failures to feed. No sharp spots in extractor, new carrier spring reduced issues, using motor oil seemed to work best. Springs are all new, changed bit by bit, factory weights. Still, had to give the bolt handle a whack a lot. Will having my barrel throated help? Any specific gunsmith?

3M 320 grit sanding sponge works great to take out machining marks. It's not like cutting into a receiver is adding value to the general public. Use a mag light as a hammer. A couple slips with a dremel, whatever. The gun is going to get worn gaming with it, regardless who did the work.

The receiver is soft, go slowly with whatever you use. Cutting the bolt was a pain BC it's as hard as the slitting saw I was using to do the out of battery cut.

I should make one like a Galil, so you can manipulate the bolt with either hand.

Drilled 2 holes, cut off the overlap BC it hurt like hell, now I can slap on my other 2 caddies. If I was going to do all of this over again I'd probably adapt a chest rig to a cheapie belt and throw the ratchet on. I'm doing a shotgun only event, and it's my 1st. 40-50 shells is a lot to manage if it's moving a lot. http://imgur.com/JnrQIEn http://imgur.com/bmJX9EL I'll update in a couple weeks after the event.

He was at GSsF Subway, I should have asked him for you.

A buddy of mine had like 2k rds of lead #6. It's what I'm using bc I got it off him cheap. It conforms to whatever rules I've seen so far.

For us guys that have just started, any crutch will do. Shotgun is so much harder to reframe what I've always done, unlike pistol and rifle. It's almost like being a bar table 9-ball star your whole life, then trying to shoot 10 perfect racks of straight pool.

Mine should be here any day now. I'm new to 3gun, but I've worn bags tying steel and poured concrete. I've demoed 8-story buildings. Played a lot of tournament paintball. I couldn't see wearing my DAA setup loaded with this much sag for very long.

I have exactly the same gun. Briley, returning the Taran, keeping the stock one in my bag just in case. Think I'm transporting with the Briley charging handle out of the gun. It's big, but not too big.

I got the older limbsaver bc I didn't feel like modifying an Airtech. I'm in crunch time to get my gun squared away so I can use now to 9/10 to get quad loading down as best I can before my 1st shotgun only event. I mean, recoil isn't my #1 concern right now. I'll use 1300fps #6 & #4 buck bc my buddy has a ton of it he's gifting me. I have 1/2 case of low recoil federal slugs leftover from an SGammo deal from last gear. Ive let my old pistol grip stock punch me in the cheek 100 slugs in the past. Stock M1 hard pad and I was fine. Not such a gaming ninja that it's blowing my time vs buying optimal shells. I know how all of this stuff shoots out of my mod and IC chokes. Adrenaline dulls any sense of pain spending $ would just make worse. I'm trying to be safe, take the experience in, have fun. Make the $$$ I've spent = fun. Next event i can improve upon whatever happens. Maybe one day recoil abatement will mean more than comfort. Right now, the Limbsaver is about the most attention I can spare to that topic.

I spent 6 hours to perform maybe 20 minutes worth of work not including shaping the port after milling. It's not like guys have measurements you can upload to your software. I didn't want to find out how much variance there is between receivers so zero vise to the work piece was important. Be real clear on where the lip the shell follower sits on is. Get an idea of how much material is hurting, and how much is helping is important. I mean just bc you can hog out the right side doesn't mean I personally want my thumb floating. There should be a rail there and my thumb should have leverage. Either way if you aren't comfortable with the unknown, pay a gunsmith.

I've seen aesthetics, sponsorship, advertising, and premium voodoo parts hype in a lot of industries. Ever stand on a static 25yd public line and outshoot a guy with a Zev'd out 34 with a stock 26? How about pulling out an old Glock 23 and shoot next to bling? I have, makes some fragile personalities pack their gear and leave early. The gun just has to work everytime with factory ammo, otherwise I'll talk spending over $2k if I decide I want a 2011. If you want it for bling sure. Credibility is what you punch into paper.

We use packs like that in paintball. Way easier to run at full sprint and slide BC you tension with on either side. Way less bobble when you are wearing 10-15lbs you need to keep tight to your body. Maybe I need to grab a pack and modify it some.

Yeah, no sweat. Was looking thru my rifles a few days ago. I really don't need all of these cluttered and complex reticles for 3gun. I have way more scope than I need, unless it has a T1 on it. Before I dump anymore $ I think I'm going to take a trip to Angeles and sit on the 600yd line for a bit with my M1A and clear my head.

Min magnification of 3x-4x is a lot to deal with close up on paper. I tried using the 3.5-10x40 I had sitting on a 308 rifle and it was ok, but that setup is better for 300-800yd shooting than this game. You want a BDC that's useable for a specific purpose at low magnification. A dot at true 1x would be useful. Check out the guy's 1-4x clip as well as the one I linked. I'm leaning toward a vx-6 1-6 bc leupold can be had cheap.

Thanks for the replies. I ended up ordering just the ratchet yesterday. Have a DAA belt a buddy won't be using anymore, and I'm doing a shotgun only event in a few weeks. His Safariland belt was OK, but loading up his caddies full was a smidge too loose or a bit too tight. There's not that much variation in the stages I'd have to reconfigure for. As long as I can snug up 30 shells, and push them around on tekloks I'm golden. I mapped out the stages to load, didn't go crazy on spare shells, have a plan I'll stick to.

I'm starting from zero. Have tried friends DAA, Safariland, and CR Speed setups over the past couple months. Nothing really gets tight enough for me. Has anyone tried the Carbon Arms Ratcheting Belt System? Should I go with a Safariland ELS belt and add the CA ratchet?