Leozinho

Here's a video demo of burpees. http://media.crossfit.com/cf-video/CrossFit_Burpees.wmv If we are talking Crossfit, we have to mention Mark Twight and www.gymjones.com, because I think Mark T may have trained with BE. At one time Mart T shot USPSA. I don't know if he still does. (A little background - Mark Twight - the famous mountaineer - was once a Crossfit affiliate, but had a falling out with the CF founder. He has been accused of intellectual property theft. He is name is mud with the Crossfit diehards, who are very defensive about who created CF-style workouts.) My only complaint about Crossfit is that it is light on long aerobic efforts. No matter what Crossfit says, it's not adequate preparation for 40 minute+ efforts. Mark T incorporates much longer endurance efforts, so I've now started molding my workouts after his. I still did the 150 burpees on Christmas Eve, though. (Then I ran 7 miles. Very slowly. )

Thanks for all the replies. I hadn't put a reduced power hammer spring in yet because I wanted to compared the polish job to another stock pistol. I've got a Wolf D spring in now, and I can live with the trigger. Now I need to put another reduced power spring in a buddy's pistol, because I'm still curious how much good, if any, all of that polishing did. I'll leave the angles alone for now. That's outside of my abilities. (Unless I can find some extra sears - and then just to play around with. I've got unlimited acess to a range, and plenty of ammo. It would be a shame not to tinker. ) Thanks

I tried to do a DIY polish trigger job on my issue Beretta. (If curious, I followed the instructions at http://www.berettaforum.net/vb/showthread....highlight=sear) I'm trying to replicate the Langdon or Olhasso trigger job. (Sending my sear and hammer to David O isn't an option for me.) I used 600 grit sandpaper to bring the points of friction on the sear and hammer to a mirror finish. I also polished the inside of the trigger bar, where the sides of the hammer touch the frame, and the hammer pin. The results were less than stellar. I don't have a trigger gauge to measure before and after, but comparing it with other Berettas I can't tell the difference between my pistol and others. Any ideas why this didn't produce any results? I tried to keep the angles on the sear and hammer, though there was some slight "rounding off" of the right angle on the single action sear point due to using the sandpaper freehand. As soon as I can get my hands on another sear, I'm willing to expirement with the angles on the sear using a stone to see if that makes a difference. I read an old post here that mentions a 45 degree angle, but I'm not sure how to go about doing that. Thanks.

You will definately need the SPR-E if you shoot nose to charging handle. I have the plain SPR (non extended) mount, but I shoot with my head further back than the nose to charging handle. As you can see from the photo, there's not much room for me to move the scope forward if I were to need to. My mount is also the higher 1.93, which is not quite as comfortable to me as the 1.5, but I wanted the option of putting my IR laser under the top of the scope. I'm still reserving judgement on this scope/mount for what I'm using it for overseas, but so far I am pleased. I did have some slight difficulties fine tuning the zero (I think I may have been "chasing the zero." To move it two clicks right, I eventually started moving it 10 clicks right and then back 8 clicks left. That seemed to help. Does everyone uses this technique?) However, with a non-free float barrel with no telling how many rounds through it and a heavy trigger, I can't say for sure that the problems I had were due to the scope and not the rifle. I check my zero as often as I can, and so far no problems even though it's been knocked around more in a few months than it ever would in 3 gun matches. (I still keep an ACOG under the seat in case I do have problems.)

Kurt, Why is that? I'm certainly not doubting you. Usually, when the tactical guys ask me why I shoot the way I do, my explanation is usually "the competition shooters, who have put a lot more thought and experimentation into this than you or me, have figured out that this way is faster (or better, or more accurate, etc.)" Maybe if I can articulate it better, I can get my buddies to take off their vertical foregrips and quit holding the magwell. Thanks.

I have the Neth compensator with flash hider (called the FSC556). I don't have a lot of experience with compensators, but to me there seems to be a very noticeable decrease in the blast to the sides with the Neth comp than with a Miculek comp. I bought this comp because of the claims to be less harsh (and because it is the only comp I know of that incorporates a flash hider), and I think it works as advertised. My experience is that the Neth comp produces more recoil than the Miculek, but that recoil is directed almost straight back into the shoulder. The dot of my scope seems to shudder and vibrate more than it lifts. So while there's still considerable recoil, I can manage it. I haven't seen the Front Sight article, but it appears that it didn't measure muzzle rise, right? I theorize this might skew the results against the Neth comp. Thread drift: Having said that all of that, the flash hider may not work well enough to use the comp with night vision. The flash whited out my night vision once, which is why it isn't on my rifle now until I can shoot it again at night and see it if happens again.

Religious Shooter, Thanks for posting that. I like the 2" high at 100y zero. Do you know a more precise holdover at 25y (or meters)? I have easy access to a 25m range and would like to use that range to get it zeroed as close as possible. Mine's going to be a bit different, as I have the taller Larue 1.93 mount (and shorter barrel, and different twist, and 77 grain bullets), but any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Leozinho

I don't think the reticle needs to be any brighter either. But the 2032's didn't work well sliding around. The illumination will cut off momentarily during recoil as the battery shifts around. I had to cut thin strips of duct tape and wrap the tape around the edge of the battery to make it wider. Not the best fix, in my opinion. Meopta should have made and include a little plastic ring to fit around the 2032s and make them fit the battery compartment. Otherwise, no complaints about my Meopta, so far.

Is there a trick to getting the 2032 battery (cheaper and more readily available) to fit in the Meopta's compartment without sliding around? And adaptor maybe? The 2032 has a smaller circumference than the included 2354 battery, but Meopta says it will work. I away from home so don't have the owner's manual in front of me to check myself. Thanks.

That's because SureFire keeps changing the dang part numbers on me. The part numbers you list are for the Muzzle Break adaptors. The K is the short one and the AR is the longer one that slips over the bbl. The AR is a little more effective. Not sure what you think is pricey. They seemed pretty much inline with other similar brakes. There is a lot of machining that goes into these muzzle breaks. In part because they need to be very dimensionally tight to mount the suppressor so that is repeatable. I have to correct my previous post. It was the MB556R (no A in there) that I read about (in Surefire's own magazine). I previously said it was the K model. I reread the ad copy today in the supermarket. No claims to being less loud or better flash supression. Just less side blast.

That's the one I was thinking about. PRI MSTN QC brake is also designed to reduce recoil while keeping the side blast down as well. DNTC has one coming out that also is advertised to reduce recoil and eliminate/reduce muzzle flash. There's a video of Matt Burkett firing a SBR with Guatemalan ammo on full auto with the DNTC comp/flash hider here: http://primaryweapons.com/default.asp?page...amp;parent_id=0 The frame rate of the video might distort how well it actually hides the flame, but it appears to do a good job. I've seen that ammo really put some flash out.. Really muzzle flash, rather than side blast, is more of a concern to me. This could be a very decent sized niche to fill for the right combination of compensator/flash hider. Right now most of the tactical crowd doesn't dare use a comp because of the idea that they shoot flames six feet out the end of the barrel.

Surefire has a compensator out that the company touts as having less blast to sides and being easier on the folks shooting around you. The ad copy said that Michael Voight used one to win his last 3-Gun Nationals. (I can't remember if the ad claimed the compensator is not as loud as others. It might have.) It's apparently very new, as I can't find it on Surefire's webpage or any reference on the Interweb. Has anyone tried it? I'm a little skeptical, perhaps only because Surefire's ubiquitous glossy ads in the gun rags turn me out. But I'm willing to give up a little recoil reduction for a comp that isn't so harsh on those around me. Thanks.

I've used Esnipe.com. The first few times were free. I think I eventually had to pay something, but not much at all. It's web-based, and you do have to give them your Ebay password. It is reputable, though. Many Ebay buyers aren't rational and they don't start their bids with their maximum bid. They often set a limit in their heads of what they will pay for an item, but then surpass that limit when they get involved in a bidding war. Sniping takes advantage of those bidders that don't place the maximum bid they are willing to pay by not giving them time to get in a bidding war. At the same time, if you are going to snipe, you also have to use your maximum bid, or some other sniper will get the item at a price you were willing to surpass. Don't begrudge sniping. If all bids were done as snipes, the auctions would essentially function as silent auctions and would be very effecient. The auctions are only inefficent when when the only bidders are one "regular" bidder (who doesn't place his maximum bid) and one sniper. As 1911user said, place your maximum bid and forget about it. Then you won't be tempted to raise your bid if you are outbid. Or start sniping yourself.

People get paid for this? Yes. He doesn't shoot. He comes out early and registers the shooters and compiles scores while we shoot. Results are done not long after last shot.

My local match has a payback. Entry fee is $20. RO's shoot for free. Payout structure depends on the number of shooters in the division. Production (the most popular class) might pay three places and the winner might get up to $200, but usually less. Revolver winner, if there is one, usually only gets his entry fee back. There is no distinction between the classes. What's left of the money, after the payback to the winners, paying the scorekeeper and the USPSA, is raffled off to those that stayed and helped break down stages and clean up. The club's overhead is low, as the range and equipment are provided by the military. I would prefer that there wasn't a payback. It seems to me that the newer and weaker shooters are subsidizing the experienced shooters. (I'm one of those newer and weaker shooters, and I know I don't have a chance of placing in the money...yet )It would prefer to pay a $10 or $15 entry fee and not have a payback. Nor would I want to change the structure to payout to winners by class, which I feel would lead to sandbagging. As it is now, there's no recognition of class winners, and the results are only posted by division as a whole and not by class. I don't know if this is by design or just the way the scoring system happens to be set up, but I like it. If the big dogs like the action the chance of winning real money brings, they could voluntarily ante $10 into a pot that goes to highest shooter that paid the ante. Do any clubs do that? I think the raffle is a good way to ensure that match organizers don't get stuck by themselves with range cleanup.

Sorry about that. I didn't catch that that wasn't the illuminated model. I'm sure some of the zombie hunters on ar15.com will be replacing their Short Dots with the Swarovski soon enough and range reports will start to trickle in. (If they haven't already)

There's a "gently used" one for $1,150 on SWFA's website for sample products and trade ins. www.samplelist.com Who wants to be an early adopter and buy this scope and report back to us?

Sometimes I think we need BE to make a sticky thread called something like "Things In My Book That Shooters Have Misunderstood or Misapplied." I see tons of really loose, floppy, weak, and wholly ineffective use of hands and arms at matches these days, all done under the name of "relaxed" or "neutral" grip. Sometimes I have to just look away. Jake, great post. Brian, great reply. I'm glad I read this thread. Count me as one who misapplied the "relaxed" state. I was trying to let the gun "float," but I couldn't figure out why I had so much muzzle flip. (I even thought for a while I needed to get my strong hand more " behind" the backstrap, which resulted in very ackward grips when I drew. ) Then I saw a post where someone mentioned asking Phil Strader how firmly he gripped with the weak hand. Phil had the shooter grip the pistol with the his strong hand while Phil placed his own left hand as the weak hand, and apparently Phil really cranked down on the fellow's hand. Only then did I start to put it together that relaxed and no tension were not the same as firmness.

I don't think there's such a thing as a locally-owned video storyeanywhere near me. But I've had great luck with Blockbuster Online. Usually a two day turnaround from my location. I don't know if it's been mentioned, but now you can return your BB online movies to a BB bricks and mortar storefor a free exchange. They mail in your online movies, and as soon asit is back at the distribution center a new movie goes out, regardless whether you still have the one you picked up from the bricks and mortar store. So right now, even though I'm on the "3 out at a time plan," I have 6 Blockbuster movies at home. Three from online and three from the store. I usually get obscure indy or foreign films online and the mainstream stuff from the local store. I really need to drop down to just "2 or 1 out at a time."

SA Friday, Good points. I'm tired of the NASCAR analogy too, though I'm not sure it serves your argument anyway. There's lots of restrictions and rules in car racing, isn't there? And lots of different divisions, with lots of rules to make some of the divisions more accessible to drivers, right? If you think racing karts is too slow for you and you don't like the restrictions, then you are welcome to move to another level of racing that has less restrictions. Obvious, right. Sounds kind of like if Production division is too restrictive for you, well, you're always welcome in Limited. But no one is keeping you from racing, not even if you choose to stay in Production. I glad you don't have any Walter Mitty fantasies. I have to wear plates enough during the week and (occasionally) worry about falling out of a helicopter and don't want to play Army on the weekends, either. And I don't think I've heard anyone assert that "USPSA is tactical training" in a while. However, I do appreciate being able to test my gun handling skills with my duty weapon against folks running somewhat similiar equipment.

Vluc, It's true that the playing field will never be level, but the fact that there is a Production division means there's been an attempt to keep it from getting too uneven for folks that want to shoot stock guns. (If there was no attempt to level the playing field we'd have only Open.) My point about a competitive advantage is that kydex holsters and Glocks and light triggers aren't a competitive advantage if everyone has them. At that point, it's just a mini-equipment race to keep up with the Joneses so you aren't left behind. My frustration with some of the posts was the outright denial that a light trigger made a difference. Of course they do, or we wouldn't be getting them. Maybe no one wanted to say that light triggers are part of the equipment race, since that's the term that's often used to unfairly dismiss USPSA. I wasn't around when Production division was formed, but my understanding is that it is a division that's meant to minimize the need to keep up with Joneses. My opinion is also that Production division should also be for guns and equipment that you can use for everyday carry. I don't know if that was ever the intent, stated or otherwise, behind Production, but that's what I personally think the division should be. That's only my opinion and I know that many others will disagree with that. That's fine and I respect that. (I think that sub-3lbs triggers aren't a good idea for everyday carry. I know folks will disagree with that too, but I don't think we want the thread to drift into what's safe and what isn't. ) So there has to be rules. It's just never easy to figure out where to draw the line. But I see no reason to think that this rule change is just for the sake of change. A lot of grief would have been avoided if this rule had just been around when Production was formed. That's why I asked about the cost of a trigger job. While Clay1 and others are out the $100(?) they spent on a trigger kit, the next guns they buy won't need it. (Or will it? they'll still need to get some work done to bring the trigger close to 3lbs and the equipment race is back on!!! Arrgh. )

Clay, please accept my apologies . I thought that was the "sarcasm" emoticon. It's been said before, but tone is often misinterpreted on these boards, and I'm guilty this time. Thanks for not raking me over the coals for me being too defensive too quickly.

A little smirking emoticon is fine, Clay, though it's more helpful if you'd just say what's irrational about my post. You do understand that there's no competitive advantage if everyone else has the same modification, right? I'm not sure how you are morally effected by rule changes, but I can see there's a financial cost of making your pistol fit the new rule. How much would it cost to make your Glock trigger meet the 3lb minimum? And how much have you spent on your current trigger? These are serious questions. I don't know the first thing about the cost of Glock triggers. Now that someone finally has said light triggers are a competitive advantage, maybe we can get past those ridiculous assertions that they don't make a difference.

I might take some of this whining more seriously if someone would just admit "I paid for a slick trigger job and I want the advantage over folks that didn't bother to make his gun shoot as well as possible." Then at least you wouldn't be disingenuous. Instead, we have comment after comment that triggers don't win matches. Well, if triggers don't make a difference, then why do you object so strongly to a 3lb minimum? I sincerely wish someone that said triggers don't win matches would explain why he even cares. Are you saying that a 1.5lb trigger isn't an advantage over a 3lb trigger? The only other objections that I can see to the rule seem to fall under two categories: 1. Change is bad. 2. We didn't want the IDPA shooters crossing over in the first place, so let's not cater to them. (Or maybe - We're glad IDPA shooters have crossed over, now let's not do anything else to cater to them) Neither of these are convincing to me. I'm not an expert on trigger pull gauges, but I can't believe that there's not a uniform way to measure trigger pull. For DA/SA guns, each trigger pull, whether DA or SA, must be a minimum of 3 lbs. Problem solved. Of course there is is a "spirit" to Production class -- that a stock gun with minimal if any modifications carried in a tradition holster can be competitive. To say there's no "spirit" to Production just because it's not spelled out in the rule book is wrong. Full disclosure: I shoot Production with a Beretta (It's my duty gun, but it's my choice to compete with it and I'm not complaining.) You might believe that I'm in favor of a minimum trigger pull because there's no way to get my Beretta's DA pull down to 3 lbs anyway. That's partly true, but only in the sense that I think there should be a division where a true, hammer fired DA gun isn't at too great of a disadvantage. I've never shot any other division. (Nor do I comment on Open or Limited rules.) I think when commenting on rules you should disclose which class you shoot most often. If it isn't Production, have the courtesy to tell us.

Cool. That's what I'll try next - plastic welding a big strip of Kydex on the outside. I like the look. If the Bad News Bears fielded a shooting team, I'd fit right in with my beat up equipment. (So far I don't have JB weld anywhere on my Beretta, though. ) As suspected, the epoxy flaked off in one big piece at the range today. (It was looking forward to the comments at the match this Saturday though. The epoxy looked like a big glob of yellowish green snot.) I superglued the crack as a short term solution but I'm not expecting much from that either. One more question - So I don't have to wait to order a piece over the internet, can you tell me what type of store, if any, stocks Kydex? The local plumber supply store? Hobby shops? Thanks again.