tomjerry1
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Posts posted by tomjerry1
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I've done all that and more, nothing short of gluing the bullets in the cases. I'm down to .375" crimp, soon to be .370", way more crimp than I could imagine.
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I'm still chasing the bullets walking out of the cases, going to start crimping more, seems to be the answer for a lot of folks.
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True statement, have one at work, it's noisy, but works great. Leap of faith if you don't get to run before you purchase.
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I have read that SWMP is the same as AA7? I have found that SWMP took 1 grain lees than AA7 for the same velocity.
I like them both, use AA7 because at the time, SWMP was spotty on the market, I've always been able to get AA7.
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I have a rotary three phase converter, there are many ways to get three phase. Before that, have you seen it run? Do you know how to run the mill? don't want to insult you. If you know someone, maybe you can take them along. You'll want to go through all the controls, check forward, reverse, high and low range, vary the speeds, check the quill movement manual and auto down feed. Take some kind of cleaner, move the axis and clean as you go, move to the extremes of the axis. Check end play on the axis controls as you move the axis, it is common for the end play to be tight at extremes, and loose in the middle of the axis. Then look at the ways to see condition. It looks like a fab shop, and debris from cutting metals can reek havoc on the surfaces.
I have seen these for 1500.00 to 4000.00, the tighter it is, the more you can expect to pay.
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I'm with ysrracer, the 929 takes an exorbitant amount of time to make run reliably for competition. The minute you try to reduce the trigger pull to a manageable amount, game on. In all honesty, I believe a good business, like TK Customs, and others are worth the money. They know what they're doing.
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If you invest in a knee mill, before you place it, put a solid base like 3"x3" square steel and leveling feet under it. This will bring the mill up to a more comfortable height and allow a pallet jack to go under the mill for moving if needed.
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To figure out your 1 degree, use an angle block, place under the scope mount and on top of the slide works great. Verify the scope mount with the manufacture, mount may already have the 1 degree built in. You can use the same block to cut the face of the slide while mounting the comp. The C-More Serendipity mount pattern is the same as other mounts, I would do all the holes before finishing, they'll be there if you need, and won't hurt a thing if not used.
+1 on the Precision Mathews
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You need to tune the extractor and shape the hook on the extractor. Your load sounds right, what weight recoil spring? slide weight? comp/popples? If tuned properly, the cases should eject about 3:30 to 4 clock and below your mount with a good 3 to 5 feet from the pistol, no glock dribble.
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Check out the 1911 forum,
https://www.1911forum.com/threads/steve-in-allentown-extractor-fitting.829865/unread
a wealth of information on extractor tuning, I'm sure the information is in this forum also.
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Fixturing is very important, chattering from a moving part will drive you crazy. Learn as much as you can about purchasing a used mill, where to look for wear, how to measure to determine the wear, and when it is time to walk away from trouble. I would keep an eye open for tools being sold out of a college, usually have been used lightly. Look for a 220 single phase tool, unless you have 3 phase 220, or a phase on converter. Once again, the mill will be the cheap part, the tooling will add up. Keep us up-dated, success in your venture.
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Second the 5" barrel, handles way better.
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Measure twice, cut once, practice on aluminum before steel, and be patient. Have fun.
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I think you'd be better off to spend money and have it done. To get a decent mill, your looking at least a couple of grand or more, new or used, then the real costs start, tooling. You can have a lot of machining done for that without all the headaches. Don't get me wrong, if you have the need for a mill, it's a great tool, but no plug and play.
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Try a 38/357 drop tube, is what I'm using, 38/357 in 9 mm, the super is the same.
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This is pretty much where I am, going with more crimp for now.
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If you really want to shoot 40, it's tough to find one, be easier to get a used 10mm and re-barrel to 40.
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Get a slide for 40 and fit to your existing lower. I did the RI route; it was shot out in 2 seasons, literally.
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I got nothing to lose, more crimp, here I come.
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Well, I sure wish I could figure this 929 Rev bullet thing out? My last load is Blue Bullet 38/357 147gr, OAL 1.16", crimp is .380", 3.3gr Vectan 9.5(128 pf), Federal SPP, WIN brass, the bullets are still walking out .020". I have also tried Plated with the same results. I have tried many different combinations of dies, I guess I should try that crimp till it tumbles, and than back off the crimp. This revolver goes against anything I have ever done, what a pain!
Oh, the pistol does shoot well, I especially like it since I cut the barrel to 5"
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I cut my barrel to 5", big difference. Took that muzzle heavy feeling away, and it sits in the hand, weight is more centered .
Harbor freight mini mill and c more Mount
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Great, take a magnetic base and dial indicator. 2k isn't bad