Czman

Only when I was using a modified OEM rubber grip. You have to carefully trim the OEM grip and the grip screw depth matters to a degree. The number one fail reason for mag hang is grips. Do you have this issue with grips removed? Could be mag brake but it would have to be really messed up. Neither of these two reasons? Then it could be the mag release.

I have tried various front and rear sight options on my CM and TS - Dawson's included. Bucking the above trend, what works best for me - Adjustable rear LPA TRT sight (fusion firearms import) with a shaved down stock black front sight. The width of the rear and the width of the stock iron are a perfect combo and a reasonable trade off between speed and accuracy. Best decision I have made in a while! As to which Dawson sight works with stock rear - complete hit or miss. There is nothing exact because CZ has slight differences in rear install and there is no exact height replacement available - excluding the install variances. The 0.205 height gets you in the ball park but don't be surprised if you have to work the sights to get them matched. Dawson does not make many in 1.5 mm, mostly 0.9 or 1.0

Does this lighten the pull as it does on the Shadow? Not sure I want a lighter trigger than what I have on my TS. . Mine became lighter by 2 oz.

Yes, your TS trigger will feel very improved with the CZ USA wide and low SA only competition hammer. You might have to file the top leg of the sear just a tiny bit (takes a minute) to allow the safety to work correctly. And ofcourse tune the pre and over travel settings again.

I wonder if 2 different CM spring designs going around. I have two new CM's - made in 2015. Don't have a recoil spring gage but I compared the stock recoil spring with the calibration spring pack - and it's a lot stiffer than the CGW 10 lb.. Feels closer to 14 or 15 lb. - no question on this. I know what a 10 lb spring feels like from my 1911's and an SP01, this is much stiffer. Got it from CZ USA - stock, paid 15 dollars per each. - or there different standards to measuring spring weight?

Less on tactile but switching to the competition SA hammer (low, wide) from CZ USA will make a big difference wrt crispness.

As you said - never ever use real force - you will damage some of the parts! This (slave pin stuck) happened to me once. Only thing you can do - pry out any springs and parts that can come out as is (no real force but a little pull here and there with tweezers), line up the rest of the parts carefully (might take a little jiggling and a few tries) and see if you move the pin in either direction. Patience is key. If you have applied so much force as to warp and damage the little parts or the pin - LGS might have to drill the whole thing out.

Thanks all!!! Any pointers for reaming barrel? If I am reaming, might as well do both my CM's and both my TS. Any tips or things to watch for? My LGS is very accomplished but not sure if something CZ specific to look for. Do I provide a bullet and a new desired OAL to LGS?

Any recommendations? I also have N350, Win 231, or I can buy the powder and bullets for what works best,

After doing a small chamfer on the steel guide rod (one thru CZ Warranty, another thru LGS) both my CM's are in fantastic shape. I posted a pic and details on my previous post. The chamfer took out a little play between guide rod / barrel / frame and for some reason has unexpectedly helped with the accuracy too. Or perhaps just me feeling more confident and shooting better. Took them both to the range - the first set up in Limited - trimmed height black front sight with LPA rear adjustable. Second is set up in Open config. It was quite a relief and satisfying to see very tight groups (jagged hole or just one big hole) from both guns with a variety of ammo at 15 yards. This was my first Open config range trip and I loved it. I used some Hornady Critical 135 gr +P and Federal 115 gr +P+ - both shot really flat! Time to start thinking about home brews for 9 mm major. Any recommendations with N320 or BE - without reaming barrel? I may ream if necessary.

Fixed!! CZ USA master smith added a chamfer - see attached pic to the guide rod. Important to position With this all slack and rattle is taken out. Simple fix. Feels good to have my CM back!

It's not about lighter (although small benefit) but about being a lot crisper. On both my TS - factory trigger is good, but the competition hammers make it great!

If the hammer is slipping past the sear - Either the sear and / or hammer surfaces are toast or the relative location is off. Cheap check with a brand new sear and the two springs.Did you check the trigger settings after hammer install to make sure you were not wearing out the sear with every round? With slide off and trigger fully depressed, you should be able to move the hammer fully up and down without any sear movement or sear interaction sound. Adjust overtravel to prevent this.

Hmm strange - might be a sear / hammer fit issue or hammer issue. Cheap check will be brand new (un modified) sear for $9. No springs missing behind the sear cage, correct? These 2 springs sit on the sear cage at the back and against the frame. I have only used SA hammers so far from CZ USA and no problems with the low wide or the Czechmate concealed hammer. I had to gently file the top sear leg in both cases for the safety to work correctly.

Nobody sells this anymore AFAIK, must be a reason why.

Original barrel, likely fitted correctly. I escalated and was able to speak with a different GS. Very pleasant and responsive. His feed back: 1. This is how CM's are built - they will end up with a rattle but gun is sound mechanically 2. Agreed that it's not reasonable to have to use a buffer - although still a good thing for practice trips (not match or SD) 3. Agreed that the rattle could be annoying especially price of gun / quality expected 4. He has chamfered the guide rod head on one side and feels this takes out the tiny slack caused by how the rod was seating, and eliminates the rattle I will post pics and test results once I get the gun back - but this encouraging. And if this fix holds, looks like it's a simple remedy that could be done by an LGS. Much happier with CZ response this time. Do you have to forcefully move the CM to make it rattle or just tipping it over and it already rattles? What gunsmithing did your LGS propose for the CM? I too would be disconcerted if I had spent a lot of money on a CM and it rattles easily. Just normal action of lifting up will cause the rattle. The guide rod chamfering was done by an experienced GS at CZ. I should have it back in a few weeks since I am traveling - and will post pics.

Origina Original barrel, likely fitted correctly. I escalated and was able to speak with a different GS. Very pleasant and responsive. His feed back: 1. This is how CM's are built - they will end up with a rattle but gun is sound mechanically 2. Agreed that it's not reasonable to have to use a buffer - although still a good thing for practice trips (not match or SD) 3. Agreed that the rattle could be annoying especially price of gun / quality expected 4. He has chamfered the guide rod head on one side and feels this takes out the tiny slack caused by how the rod was seating, and eliminates the rattle I will post pics and test results once I get the gun back - but this encouraging. And if this fix holds, looks like it's a simple remedy that could be done by an LGS. Much happier with CZ response this time.

To be clear, it's not the side to side barrel / slide wiggle - which both my CM's have, this is front to back slide movement while in battery with hammer cocked. Honestly, as I mentioned in another thread - I am getting the typical CZ ragged hole at 45 feet with both my TS but have yet to do that consistently with either CM. I am convinced TS will outshoot CM especially with normal wear. $ucks to pay so much more for a gun that now feels less robustly engineered on many counts. I think CM will die out, the new TS Orange might be the better path for Limited -IF they have engineered it correctly.

Update from factory - gun is according to spec and rattling is just normal wear! Recommended a buffer to reduce the rattling. This is very puzzling. NONE of my other guns (any brand, any style) has a slide that rattles front to back in battery. My Colt 1911 was a rattler with a loose slide to frame fit side to side but not front to back. I firmly believe this is a design defect that can be masked by a buffer or cotton from a qtip - but seriously? In a gun that retails for 3,300 in free states and lot more in MA if you can find one!?? I think not, but not sure what recourse I have. I know the TS Orange is shipping with this buffer - perhaps CZ is hiding the design defect by building in the buffer as a disposable part. Any other thoughts from experts here?? I am pissed at the CZ QC and response in this case.

Hammer to sear was drop in, however a few rubs with a file on the safety leg of the sear to get the safety to engage / lock. Two mins.

Nope, SA only. https://shop.cz-usa.com/ProductDetail/19506_Competition-Hammer-Sa-Only

N Not the weight as much (few ounces) but big improvement in pre- and over- travel and smoothness / crispness. Go with the SA comp hammer from CZ USA - I found the fit / action better than conceal hammer - without any polishing.

Your front sight is loose, pivoting around the front sight pin? Not sure I follow. Mine has been installed tight and there is no play at all.

You need a slave pin for the sear cage - CGW sells one or make your own. Complete reassembly video here

I had to file the sear leg just a bit as well. Get the lower surface first.