Czman

I carry a spare twin pistol - best fall back alternative, and 3 spare mags. Along with this: 1. Arredondo mag brush, and a care package of patches, q tips and cleaning fluid (MPro) for mags 2. Bore snake and CLP to help with a long day 3. Squib rod and hammer if I am going by myself - somebody always has one at a match 4. For my DAA gear, the three Allen keys to help tighten, and a spare Ghost plastic mag pouch I have carried fiber, hex keys, screw driver set, etc etc - but I like the spare pistol approach the best.

Filled out warranty form finally, waiting for factory to respond. Interesting thing - i can stop the rattle by placing cotton from a q tip in the frame where the guide rod rests.. but ideally this is never necessary... i have been shooting 9 mm minor in Limited using factory springs... will see what factory says..

Same thing happened to me with my Colt fiber front. Fell off in the middle of range trip and my groups shrunk by half, sighting through the tiny hole - lol!I suspect the creep in Blue TS is tied to factory sear - I have some spares, so will likely switch out. Red TS is perfect I am hoping a friend can help me cut down SSI CZ Scales grips tomorrow - want to play with that and see if I like it better than the UB grip.

Since I travel reasonable distances to matches and time is money, I got a second TS that I have named Blue to join Red (which incidentally out shot my CM). Blue got a similar treatment as Red (CM magwell, aluminum trigger, aluminum grips, competition hammer) with 2 differences: 1. Stock iron front sight for Blue 2. CM conceal hammer for Blue Twins are fabulous for Limited (so what if we don't get TS Orange - we have Red and Blue) - but 2 questions: 1. Unexpected tiny but discernible and annoying creep with the concealed hammer. Had heard great reviews but now I am in two minds. Don't want to mess with sear and hammer surfaces - will this creep go way eventually or should I replace both hammer and sear? Red has the SA comp hammer from CZ USA and the fit with stock sear is incredible 2. Strangely, strangely with my later middle life eyes I am picking up and lining up the stock front sight faster in Blue than the fiber in Red - does this make any sense? I am using 1 mm fiber with stock rear in Red. My eyes are finding it easier to line up the iron line and visually determine the centering - than do the same thing with the fiber. Do any of you use stock iron sights?? Appreciate any insights on these 2 questions?

This one? It's always out of stock. I could check Grauffel or other overseas sources..http://czcustom.com/cztsextendedambisafetylhs.aspx

Make sure you go to shop cz and not the general website - shop cz is running, see link above.

Link to trigger - you can select color. You will also find the Czechmate colored mag well. http://www.shop-cz.com/trigger-sa-tactical-sport-red/d-71957/

Trigger came from CZ UB. Shipping is expensive at 50 bucks or so but not too bad if you get a handful of parts at once. The trick with aluminum triggers is to handle them carefully. They bend easily. When re-using both the trigger spring pin and the trigger pin be sure to reduce one end of each so you can drive thru without bending the aluminum (learnt this lesson with one of my CM's). Czechmate magwell is the best. Both the CZ Custom mag bases and the Springer ones fit well, as do the factory rubber/metal base pads. Fyi, I had to use Wolff +10% with the CZ Custom mag pads to get 100% reliable slide lock.

My new baby - TS 9 mm with a small set of upgrades. Comp SA hammer (CZ Custom), flat aluminum trigger (CZ UB), Czechmate mag well (CZ USA), aluminum mag base (CZ Custom), and 0.215 inch - 0.9 mm Dawson fiber front. All stock springs, stock FP and stock sear. NO polish at all. Cut rubber grips. I am using stock rear sight, also as a slide racker. Trigger pull is 1 lb 10 oz, very smooth and very crisp with 2 mm pre and 1 mm post travel. Wow! I took it to the range and in my hands it out shot my CM in limited config. More accurate, lesser recoil (nearly zero), and follow up shots were a breeze! CM is still more comfortable to hold (cut under trigger guard, beaver tail) but in terms of balance and shooting feel I am in love with this TS. CM is not worth it for just limited use - fine if you want to own just one gun and go back and forth between limited and open or just stick with open. I am planning to use my CM just in open from here.

Strange - never heard of this. CZ's need shorter rounds (yes, shorter than gage) - just search here. But really odd. Only thing wrt barrel - some obstruction that cleared itself? A partial squib? No way to tell until you shoot again with decent quality factory ammo again. I might have guessed a different cause with the slide out of battery but this might be it. Test again with decent quality factory ammo.

Update: it looks like the issue is with the frame, where the guide rod sits. The guide rod is not sitting correctly, so there is some rotational slack which allows the slide to move back and forth on the frame, causing the rattle. To confirm its a frame issue - I put the slide on the frame of my newer CM and there was absolutely no rattle. I was not able to do the reverse test with my new slide and older frame because of fit. So unfortunately calling CZ USA tomorrow am - the CM needs to go back to the factory to be inspected and fixed. I just hope this is not a defect that comes out after several thousand rounds in my newer CM.

Definitely not the mag release - it's the sound of the slide moving back and forth on the frame without any spring engagement.

This is with the barrel nut. I have checked the turns - perfect, cannot go any more based on barrel length. Also checked with my spare barrel, same behavior. The source of rattling is the front to back motion of the slide before the spring kicks in - perhaps 0.05 mm, just as a guess. I don't get the rattle with hammer down since the hammer applies some pressure on the slide. Update: I have ruled out almost everything except something between the slide and frame. The barrel has a wiggle but that's not the cause. When the slide moves back and forth, the barrel is moving with it. I used a different barrel (spare that comes with the kit), recoil spring, a different (and new) recoil plug, new slide stop - I was able to recreate the same issue. Which leaves me with the slide to frame fit. There is no unusual peening on the slide stop hole on the frame, or where the recoil plug contacts the dust cover. The only slightly unexpected (to me) wear is on the breech face, on the side that is away from the extractor. The barrel contacts this area and it is showing some visible wear - it has been impacted thousands of times. I am stumped... Continuing to think thru.

One of my Czechmates - now with over 7K rounds in it, rattles when I quickly pick up the gun. My other CM which is brand new, does not rattle at all. The rattle specifically is from the fit of the barrel to the slide, and not from the slide to the frame. Flawless otherwise. Is this normal? Does it affect accuracy over time? My Colt 1911 use to rattle similarly but it was the slide to frame fit in that case. My Wilson Combat CQB Elite 1911 has no rattle or slack at all after nearly 5K rounds and is my gold standard for pistol machining and fit. Appreciate any help based on any CZ experiences.

Delete - accidental dupe

The screw needs to be very tight. You may need to either bend the spring or replace it.

It's pistol. I will continue to explore.

Nothing obvious seems broken. I opened up the main crank and put it back together. Decapping die is not the issue because I replaced - and it also happens at the next station. Powder funnel also not an issue - this is related to the crank action. Happens with funnel out. I will look into primer bar - but unless sticking causes a thud on the main crank action, unlikely. I asked my wife for help moving a couple of things and she pulled out a primer from the area of the main crank. Not sure where it came from but it was full of grease. My gut tells me I have broken or deformed some part of the gear system in the main crank assembly. I think it is slipping on the upstroke, then catches on, causing the thud as it snaps in, and engages. Somehow, a round in the first two stations makes enough of a difference in the friction or effort during upstroke (yes, lubed with a hornady case lube inside and outside the case) to cause the slip and thud. My gut also tells me that this should have never happened. I was using the Dillon original die and the decapping pin should have broken before the machine got damaged. I will likely switch to my Redding - that would have likely broken the pin first. Any guidance on how to identify the minimal repair necessary?

After several thousand rounds, my wonderful 1050 machine feels a little clunky - after recovering from a Berdan primer decapping jam. I missed this Berdan in my visual inspection and it jammed the decapping die. I don't remember what exactly I did to free up, but here's what's happening: 1. The action up and down is still very smooth without any rounds in the de capping or expander stations. However, with a round either in the decapping or expander stations, the downstroke is smooth. It feels like something sticks on the way up. Initially the handle and the cam turn but the shaft doesn't move up. Then there is a clunk with a jerk and the shaft starts moving up. 2. I tried replacing dies, tightening up the 4 white tabs, ensured the top bolt, the screw on the cam are also tight. Can't figure out what's wrong and therefore what I need to do. Experts please help!

Just got and tried the swage go / no go tool. Love it - simple to use - I wonder why such a valuable tool is not offered at least as an accessory by Dillon - but could be part of the tooling that comes with it. Test result - My height measurement approach had indeed created the perfect swage as the gage confirmed, I got lucky I guess ?

Thanks! Just ordered the tool, seems great.

Another 500 perfect rounds loaded - so I am calling this solved. Culprit - primer pocket - crimped and likely deformed in range brass. Fix: adjust swage slightly using my above measurements for 9 mm. Done and done! Thanks all for help!

Quick update. I checked the primer station white plastic tab. There is a credit card sized gap on the upstream side and close to flush on the downstream (direction of rotation) side. My gut says given the infrequency of occurrence (less than 1 in 100) that this is an issue with the range brass / an issue with primer pockets of specific cases rather than the Dillon system. I first made sure the swage station top die goes all the way to the case bottom - j think there might have been a tiny amount of gap, not sure. Next, I measured a case, and calculated that a spacing of 0.07 inch between the top die and swage rod would ensure that the swage rod head (about 0.04) would be fully inside the primer pocket with perhaps 0.01 inch to spare. This ought to guarantee primer pocket crimp removal and primer seating. We shall see. I ran about 100 rounds really fast (1 per 2 seconds) and primers look good. Very slight increase in seating depth but I think modest enough to get ignited by any FP, Will report back after several hundred rounds.

Bench is very sturdy and leveled by a carpenter. Will start diagnostics end to end...

Please continue your suggestions - appreciated! Checked primer tube - ID is about 0.179 inch - which is roughly 0.005 wider than a small pistol primer - so that looks good. I checked the brass / head stamps. Not the same. Any other tests or checks I could do? One potential source of error, not sure. There is a metal cap that gets screwed into the mag securing the tube inside. I am not unscrewing this cap before loading the primer tube. Could a primer fall sideways if it hits the cap edge on the way down? I am using RCBS small primer tubes since I have 5 of them. This one http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Auto-Primer-Tube-100-Small/dp/B000N8LKXU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1434163945&sr=8-5&keywords=primer+tubes Thanks!