ultimase

Thank you. Given that the fwarms is currently out of stock, I'm going to go ahead and order the M die and give it a shot. Given amazon's excellant return policy hopefully if I'm making a mistake the fwarms expander will be in stock by then. If not this should be the most economical way to solve my problem. Fingers crossed.

Thanks man, I do appreciate your observations.

I've actually had that thought of going back to plated, but thus far they seem to be a few bucks more than the coated, a quick search shows that this margin has declined by a bit. Perhaps more importantly I have a few certificates for blue bullets.

Something else just crossed my mind. I have a .357 caliber conversion as well as a .40 caliber conversion...perhaps one of the swage expanders there might work better? Measuring the D swage expander gives .355 so it's a minor difference, measuring the W swage expander gives .398. The D swage might be promising, but the hold down portion is quite a bit longer, because of the longer brass casing for .38 and .357 so that won't work. The W swage expander would expand the brass likely way too much. So it sounds like I'm ordering the M die at this point..

My seating die is just the standard redding seating die. I have tried to switch to the hornady custom seating die with unfortunately the same results. From my research thus far it looks like I need a way to expand the case a bit more to keep the coating towards the base of the bullet from being damaged. It looks like there is the mr bulletfeeder die (which apparently can wear out), the photoescape/uniquetek die that is advertised to not wear as badly, or the lyman M die. Slightly leaning towards the M die as it should wear less, and lyman has a pretty good warranty. In terms of cost, they are all basically the same.

So instead of the dillon swage expander die, you have a Lyman M die above the swage station instead? Is the swaging retained?

Thank you. Now is there any actual difference between the mr bulletfeeder die, the photoescape die?

Interesting found a post that mentioned shaving or grinding down the swage expander. At it's based where it expands it measures .354, which is what I found measuring the brass after this station. Measuring the diameter just a little above this the swage expander gives .357. Would would likely be adequate for most of the bullets. Along these same lines, I wonder if a .357 swage expander might work better...

So the details are I'm loading on a 1050 with a Lee undersize die at the sizing station, the swage F sizer, dillon 1050 powder die, a 3d printed bullet feeder, redding bullet seating die and a lee factory crimp die. Using N320, 3.2 grains with blue bullets round nose 147 grain projectiles, using mixed range pick up. The brass has been deprimer and then wet tumbled and then sprayed with hornady one shot before putting them into the case feeder. I load per case tube, ie I run batches of roughly 28 and then check my powder charge etc. Of these 28, I'll find roughly 4-5 rounds where it's very clear that I'm scraping the coating off the bullets. I initially thought the undersize die might be causing it so I switched to a redding sizing die and then a dillon sizing die. Unfortunately it still happening. It's apparently immediately after seating the bullet to the correct OAL, so the factory crimp die does not appear to be part of the issue. The brass is mixed range pickup, but I'd assume they'd be sized uniformly after the sizing die and then the swage station. Perhaps the blue bullets coating might be inconsistient? so I measured them .356 .357 .356 .355 .356 .357 .358 .356 .356 .357 .356 .356 .356 .356 .356 This is somewhat interesting as it looks like blue bullets call these .355 diameter rounds, but I'll admit I'm using calipers and I'm not that sure they're that good at measuring thousanths consistiently. I have another few thousand, but this might be worth considering that they aren't sized consistiently. Ok so I measured the brass at each station Dillon Sizing, internal .345 Swage .354 Bell .389 (this is huge I know, many people I talked to or found online mentioned that I should just try to bell a little more. At this point any more and I start cracking the case mouths fairly consistiently. The 1050 sizes at the swage station, with the belling of the case really only opening the case mouth, but not extending very far into the case. From what I can tell this seems to case the parts of the bullet near the base to scrap the coating off. When I see the coating "wrinkled" at the case mouth after the factory crimp die, if I pull them there is evident coating scrapping below. I know DAA has a different powder funnel for use with their bullet feeder, but I have a hard time believing that this would solve this issue as I believe this problem happens even if I was feeding the bullets by hand. Thus far I've just been tolerating it, but it's driving me a bit nuts, and I'm starting to wonder if I'm the only one with this issue. Anyone experience this or have any advice to try?

That sounds a bit..weird. When I spoke with Springfield they sent me a fedex label directly and I just dropped it off at a fedex hub, no FFL involved.

On it's way back to me so roughly 2-3 weeks. Honestly, it felt like a while, but that's pretty good. They have listed: Inspect pistol Reamed chamber Recut & polished barrel ramp Polished chamber Refit barrel Tuned extractor Safety checked & tested Hopefully that fixes the issues I was having with failure to extract and light strikes.

That's kinda amusing, I have a high 11XXX serial and I do not have the lightening cuts. So it appears that cut off might be somewhere in the 12XXX series.

Enbarking on this same journey with a 5 inch as well. After checking it I found that was a relatively low serial number thus first gen gun. After light strikes, and some failure to extracts as well as noticing the hang up on the disconnector I did the same, and called Springfield last week and had it sent in.

There is some adjustability in terms of tightness for the blue tube, it's also replaceable if it's too worn. I had a rf100 that would flip around this area. I had it looked at by Dillon and after I've gotten it back it's been pretty much perfect.

Sometimes one of the bolts can back out a little, causing it to not work as well. I took mine back to Dillon, and could hardly recognize it when I got back it. It was pretty much brand new at that point given all the parts they replaced. It's been back to being a pleasure to use after that refurbishment.

Just to make sure I don't screw something else up, just take a punch and make a few dimples under the sight? Am I relying on the dimple to hold the sight to the dovetail, or is the dimple to hold more loctite?

The Dawson sights haven't needed to be drilled, they already had the depression machined in. Does anyone have a source for oversized sights? I'll have to ask dawson, but I swore they said they didn't have oversized ones.

see below, I somehow found a glitch in the matrix

Remove the roll pin, clean the dovetail with acetone, allow to dry. Place a few drops of loctite into the rear of the dovetail. Install front sight. Install new roll pin. Allow loctite to dry over 24+ hours. Once installed the sight feels solid, without the loctite the front sight does have a decent amount of movement.

Running a RMR with IDRS rear sight on a sp01 that I've been co-witnessing with a tall dawson front sight. For some reason in the past 4 months I've managed to launch three of these down range. After cleaning with acetone I've tried a recommendation of red loctite in the dovetail and most recently green loctite 648. Still somehow I've donated three of these front sights to the range. I've read some have made shims to put tension under the front sight with a coke can shim, others have dimped the sight base. Anyone have any recent success? Thank you.

Good to hear gents.

CGW has a trigger bar spring tutorial that might help https://cdn1.cajungunworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/28155355/How-To-34-Adjustment.pdf If you have a pick or some time of hook you can pull the trigger spring out of the groove and then bend it slowly to meet the tutorial.

heartland of texas armory shows in stock

The first picture is a RL1050, it's an older press, it has a shorter stroke and because of that is limited to shorter cartridges. It may not have a complete set of dies, but it does have the powder measure. Handgun only loaders might be more interested in the press as the stroke is less than the longer super 1050. The second picture is a 1050 super, it has a longer stroke and has more cartridges that it can load including rifle. This press appears to have a complete set of dies, but is missing a powder measure. The third picture centrally and off to the periphery appears to be both 550's. The central 550 appears to be complete with a complete set of dies and powder measure. The one in the periphery is difficult to tell if it has a powder measure, but I believe has the linkages for a powder measure. Both of these have the standard dillon press ball handle. The fourth picture is another 550, that appears to be complete but also have the dillon upgraded roller handle. Dillon rl1050's have been discontinued so it'll be harder to figure out a price. Searching around, especially here might give you some recent sales. In the completed section of ebay there is a rl1050 that took a best offer so we can't see the sale price, but assuming it was nearish the asking price it was listed at $2250. The Super 1050 is currently $2450 direct from dillon. The 550's are currently starting around $590, but a conversion kit can raise the price another ~$100. So the hard part is somewhat done, but you'll want to figure out what accessories/conversions you have there as they can significantly raise the price. The conversions are the shell plates on the presses. They will be labeled with a number on both the 1050's and the 550's. There maybe other small or large blue boxes in the area that might be additional conversions. On the 550's the conversions include small brass located pins, a powder measure expander and the shell plate itself. These are sold from dillon for roughly ~$90, but many many many of them are on back order. https://www.dillonprecision.com/s000217 On the 1050's the conversions are a lot more expensive, starting at $185. https://www.dillonprecision.com/s000214

You could probably take a picture of the overall bench and we could help identifying them. A picture of each press would be even better. Or you could just compare them against the photos on dillon's website. Dillon 550c Dillon 750 video and pictures comparing 750 vs 650 Dillon buyer guide with photos of their presses