mikeor70

I'm looking for a good eye doc in the Mesa/Phoenix Arizona area who is a shooter. Thanks in advance.

Nice run

+1 on the MI SS gen 2. Just put one on mine and love it. You won't be disappointed.

+1 on the MI SS gen 2. Just put one on mone and love it. You won't be disappointed.

+1 on the S3G trigger. I have the straight trigger which is taking some getting used to, but the break and reset are awesome!

Is this you?

Found this today. Good look at the reticle.

Miculek. Mine works great and price was right.

Dang Tom....getting all mathematical on me! You knowledge, advice and expertise is always on point. After giving it some thought, I'll probably forego the flutes and just shoot the dam thing.

OP, What was your final decision/outcome? I'm kind of in the same boat myself. No charge machine shop...18" Govt profile Bushmaster (cut from a 20") and thinking about fluting forward of the FSB. I haven't shot it yet, so no baseline on accuracy. I've got no other reason to do it, than just because I'm bored. Thoughts?

Got some great ideas here. $20 for the cart on CL, $60 for the Kolpins, $8 on paint, a little modification to the webbing and here's what I ended up with.

I was having the exact same issues....I took Tom's advice on my M3000. Polish the tube, run it wet as you can, and run 3dr 1200's through it. I have about 300 rounds through mine now and managed to get it to run some 2.75 last night with only 1 fte....which, according to Tom is really probably just a short stroke. Also, I've been storing it with the bolt locked back to keep some compression on the spring....contributing factor?.?.? Who knows, but my M3000 is running like a champ now. Tom, any update on a lighter replacement spring?

Put me on the list!

Have you experimented with removing or trimming back the size of the spacer behind the recoil spring? Just wondering if that would help in cycling lighter loads.

Thanks Tom. Took your advice and ran it wet as I could get it without it actually dripping. Zero malfunctions with both the WIN super x 1255s or the WIN AA 1300s. I didn't get (have) to run the Rio 1255 3.25dr. Ill post back when i have a chance to try the Rios. I think ill work a bit more on polishing the mag tube. Do they typically need to be ran that wet, or just for break in?

I polished the tube longitudinally starting with 320, 400, 600, then to 800. It seemed to at least knock the machine marks down quite a bit, but not a mirror finish by far. I'll post a pic this evening. I guess I'll go ahead and shoot the match tonight. Fingers crossed. I'll work on getting some video of the cycling. Thank you very much for your insight.

Tom, as always, solid advice. I cleaned all of the factory lube out before shooting. I gave the mag tube a polish down to 800 as well. I suspected spring drag on the mag tube as well, but can't see any obvious marks. I will polish the mag tube a bit more and run it with the bolt and rails wet this time. What are your thoughts on running 3.25dr in the meantime?

Thanks punkface. I'm hoping it's a break in as well. To be clear, I purchased and installed The MOA parts.

I figured I would start a new thread rather than post in the 90+ page "Scattergun" thread. I am having multiple FTE with multiple types of ammo. Here's my vitals...M3000 24", MOA Precision competition package (minus the disconnector), +6 tube, loading port opened. I'm experiencing about a 75% FTE, ammo listed below. I know, manual says 3 dram recommended, I ran some 2.75 because I happened to have them laying around. That said, I am getting FTE with 3 dram as well. I've browsed the threads and did come across Tom's experience of a partially loose mag extension causing some FTE. After about 40 rounds, I noticed mine was loose by about 1/2 turn...still getting FTE after tightening. To clarify, my FTEs are about a 60/40 split of either the spent hull being extracted from the chamber and hanging up on the ejection port or the spent hull still in the chamber. When the hull remains in the chamber, I am able to remove it by removing the new shell on the lifter, cycling the bolt, then the spent hull ejects. In both cases, there is always a new round waiting on the lifter. Fired and un fired shells slide freely in and out of the chamber by hand. I'm hoping mine isn't one that's going to require an M2 extractor right out of the box. All together, I've got just under 200 rounds through it. Nothing appears abnormal on the rim of the spent shells and no noticeable burrs in the chamber. The "ramp" in the barrel where the extractor rides does appear rough, but no burrs on the extractor. Here's the ammo I was using: WIN Heavy Lead Load- 3DR , 1 1/8oz, 1200 fps, 7.5 shot - 80% FTE REM Game Loads- Dram not on box, I'd guess 3DR, 1oz, 1290fps, 7.5 shot - 75% FTE RIO Target Load- 3DR, 1oz, 1280fps, 8 shot - 95% FTE (I know, RIO) Estate - 2.75DR, 1 1/8oz, 1145fps, 7.5 shot - 75% FTE (I know, Estate) FED Target Load - 3DR, 1 1/8oz, 1200fps, 7.5 shot - 80% FTE FED Multipurpose Load and FED Field and Target worked the "best"- 3DR, 1 1/8oz, 7.5 shot - only about 25% FTE WIN Super X 2.75" OO- 0% FTE S&B 3" OO- 0% FTE So, in hopes of shooting my first TAC Shotgun match tomorrow, today I picked up: WIN Super X Upland and Small Game- 1 1/8oz, 1255fps, 7.5 shot Estate heavy Game Load- 1 1/8oz, 3.25DR, 1255fps, 7.5 shot (I know, Estate again, but hoping the 3.25DR will work) WIN AA Super Sport (clays)- 1 1/8oz, 3.25DR, 1300fps, 7.5 shot Am I spinning my wheels here fishing for the right ammo? Should I just plan on an M2 extractor? Will the 3.25DR ammo help my FTE enough where I can shoot a match, or back to the drawing board? I've browsed the threads here a lot and am hoping for a little guidance. Thanks in advance!