DougCarden
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Posts posted by DougCarden
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And the problem with CLAYS flake powder is that it will bridge under 3.0 grains with the Dillon measures unless you put something on the measure to keep it moving.
DougC
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Be CAREFUL with fast powder and heavy bullets in 38 short colt. Others ( not me) have blown up cylinders with fast powder. I would start at 3.0 and work up slowly. Check extraction. That will tell you more than looking at federal primers. When you have sticky extraction, you need to go back down. Go slow and see what you find out....
DougC
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If your extractor is tuned properly you should be able, with mags with spacers, shoot OAL of 1.050 through 1.165 with no issue at all. That appears to be a minor load with Autocomp? You may need a lighter recoil spring....If the brass is dribbling out of the gun a lighter spring might be in order....
DougC
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I have two extended small frame 9mm mags, one holds 22, the other 20....If anyone is interested...PM me.
Thanks,
DougC
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Recoil impulse....up to you what you like. Use TG for either one. Some like a quick snap with a heavier bullet, some like a lighter bullet.....try them and see what you like...
DougC
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If you are getting inconsistent lengths, then hold the toolhead down when cutting count to 1002....Listen to the cutting. You will hear when it is done cutting and then can cycle through for another case. Separate your brass as well. When you set up for LC brass and have it trimming them at .750 just understand that any FC brass will be trimmed down to .740. It is just the way the brass is manufactured. If you want to alleviate that or load to max pressure then separate your brass but if you process a lot of it that is what you will get.
DougC
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A lead 122 LFP with a medium powder like titegroup will shoot 3in. at 50 yds in several guns.......For the games a 147 LFP is hard to beat as well....... I would recommend them being sized at least .357 for best results....
DougC
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Brass is bulged from over pressure round with the CLAYS load. I would bet there was a little sticky extraction too...
You might be able to find a die to resize down far enough to take the bulge out....I used some 9mm dies once with lube and that helped....
DougC
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VV was bought by NAMMO....they are still making powder.....
DougC
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Ron, I am sure the metallurgy in Turkey is first rate.
........as I have seen high power clones blow barrel hoods with standard loads......LOLDougC
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If you are dinging case mouths then you need to tighten the shellplate Nut down a little more to slow down the "snap" of the shellplate, and possibly slow down your stroke so it is "smoother". When I was processing brass with an automated 1050 this is what I found to be the culprit. Yes, the newer Supers are not at tight as the older machines either......
DougC
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Paul, most of the time the primer punch spring is broken. I would replace the primer slide arm springs, the pivot arm on the primer tube magazine. If those get worn out you will have problems with the last little bit going into the punch and affecting the timing.
Good luck,
DougC -
Bianchi.....which makes me wonder what my other guns and ammo will do at 50.....
.Some loads shoot well up to about 30 yds and then blow out at 50. Good to know if you are going to the nationals and they have standards past 25yds....
DougC
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+1 for ChuckS's advice.
DougC
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When I get my Shorty STI steel gun back from Hard Chrome and it warms up a bit you are welcome to come down and shoot my SC loads 115jhp at 1050 and then try some 95jhp loads at 1200 and see what you like. I know I tried the 95s for a couple of years, but due to price and ease of loading I settled on the 115 at 1050. The Comp may work better with the 95 grain loads but I am more consistent on the plates with the 115 load.....
Just send me a PM...
DougC
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You can adjust most of the slam out of the powder measure (not all) by increasing or decreasing the spring tension on the failsafe arm. Play with the spring tension and you should be able to smooth it out a little....
DougC
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With the Plated Xtremes I would recommend the .357 bullet, but get some of both and see what works best in your gun. Remember to bell the case adequately and don't taper crimp more than ..376 and run the bullet at least 920 and you should have a good load. Try shooting paper targets at your longest distances ( 50yds) you would have at a match to make sure you don' t have any tumbling.....
DougC
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Slide up the Primer slide arm ( spring loaded lever on the primer blast shield). Then loosen the crescent on the rear of the primer slide raceway like you are going to take the primer slide out. Adjust it so you could take the primer slide out. Then take a little butter dish or container and put it under the cut out where the damaged primers go when they fall out under the machine. Then take a screwdriver or something that will fit in between the bushing on the primer slide and work the primer slide back and forth. You will start working the primers out of the tube as they fall into your container until the tube is empty. It helps to keep the primer tube rod in the tube while you are doing this for gravity to make them drop down faster........Works just fine. When you are done, Readjust and start loading again!
DougC
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HR,I would use the Redding dies and not even think twice about it......Second, I would use Lee dies.
DougC
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I am healing up right now myself.....
#1 LIsten to Doctor and follow limitations he imposes. I am....it is driving me frickin nuts but it has to be done.
#2 Take the meds they prescribe initially for pain control. This is important. When you don' t need it anymore then get off of them.
#3 Use laxatives and whatever is recommended for the 1st week. Nuff said......
Do your research on the mesh and alternatives.....My dad did the mesh a couple of years ago and is doing fine. He is, however, 73, and not real active....
Good luck and and get it done now when you can't really get out and shoot!
DougC
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It is gonna be on the higher sign of velocity due to the lead bullet but you should be fine...seriously.
DougC
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Yep.....I sit here corrected
. Got my first SDB in 1989.....been awhile. Having said that you can still turn down a conventional die body and use it in the toolhead,...you just don't need to thread it......I will correct my above post.....Thanks Mike!
DougC
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When I load my premium 50 yard ammo I roll size it and then use a Redding titanium carbide die set. I then bell the case only enough to seat the bullet. I set the crimp to .376-377. That is it. Roll sized brass will make sure the brass will chamber in anything and make it easier to go though the sizing die, regardless of what die you use. Just remember with 9mm brass....garbage in/garbage out.
Good luck,
DougC
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We did this test 20 years ago. CLAYS with a 230 won hands down. It had low charge weight coupled with great accuracy and had the lowest felt recoil vs. the 200gr loads we tried. A CLAYS load running 790fps is still softer than the same velocity load of Titegroup, but it is close, and most shooters can't tell the difference. They can tell the difference between a WWB 230 load and the others due to the faster powder burn vs. the slower in the factory ammo.
DougC
........as I have seen high power clones blow barrel hoods with standard loads......LOL
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. Got my first SDB in 1989.....been awhile. Having said that you can still turn down a conventional die body and use it in the toolhead,...you just don't need to thread it......
38 Short Colt, 158/160gr bullet, Tightgroup. Will it work, where to s
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Good data, thank you for sharing. Some people have put aquarium air movers on the measure, and some have used vibration devices attached to the body of the measure as well too.....
DougC