StraightSh00ter

I forgot about that part. It makes sense - I didn't realize the M2 is more pieces than just an external control. Good point. In addition I'm seeing how easy and inexpensive the DIY USB cable is. I was considering the MSRP on Competition Electronics' website. With all the support (especially locally) for the Pro Chrono it seems like right choice. I really like the display, package (the brain that you bring to the computer), and user interface for the M2, but apparently it comes with extra baggage and cost.

Thanks 427Cobra. I'm curious why you say the 'PF button is useless' - does it not calculate PF, and/or does the calculator work? I'm only interested in the chrono for pistol - comparing charges, OAL, primers, etc. and am interested in storing and comparing data on my desktop computer. For my needs I'm going to choose between the CED M2 and Pro Chrono (not wanting to spend more than the cost of the CED). Pro Chrono is probably a little less expensive, but looks like it sacrifices user interface, bulk (when in my office uploading data), and requires purchasing/making a connector cable which is a little ridiculous. Is there other software to work with Pro Chrono (aftermarket, shared, etc)?

I'm doing my due diligence prior to purchasing a chronograph. When thinking more about which features I really want up front, the CED is coming to the top of the list. However, Midway has a relatively sub-par rating and there isn't much recent talk about the CED M2 on these forums. Any compelling (technical) reason not to get one? For someone interested in PC connectivity without relying on a smart phone or tablet, it seems like the most convenient option.

Interesting, I had asked someone on the phone about the difference from the CR Speed belt and was told "they're identical".

Just to make sure I understand this prooerly: If we buy anything from our computer within 60 days of accessing Brownells through the above link, credit will be given (assuming cookies or whatever haven't been deleted)? I wasn't sure if I had to go directly from here, but after reading this again it sounds like we don't have much to worry about. Are there any tricks to know regarding whether or not we're signed in or anything?

I had a similar issue to someone above with the 650: the S&B primers don't load as smoothly. I had one that didn't seat deep enough and didn't fire the first time it was hit with the hammer. I checked this by sorting brass, loading again with S&B, and noticing how tough it is to seat the primer and how it's hard to feel when it has actually seated. I then used the same batch of brass and loaded some Federal which seated like butter. My elbow even started to hurt loading with S&B. I had some boxes of S&B in my hand and was approaching the register when I decided to put them back and spend $12 more on Federal, and I'm kind of glad I did. Reloading is more enjoyable when the primers seat nicely.

Hmm... The store here has small pistol and small rifle? They are poorly labeled for sure. A buddy picked up a box of small rifle by mistake when he bought small pistol Looks like they caught on - new package/colors for the small pistol primers

I get my reloading data from Hodgdon.com. They have data for a few different brands of powders. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/ I load 9mm 124gr and like Titegroup. It's inexpensive, meters well, and is relatively easy to find.

I couldn't find any info on ramp angles for calibers other than .45. I have a 9mm and had to change the barrel ramp angle (un-ramped, but the barrel ramp/throat was still too steep). I found that the .45 frame ramp should be 30.5 degrees and the barrel ramp about 35 degrees, both measured from vertical. However, I decided to just make small changes from where I was to avoid removing too much (or unnecessary) material. I think I ended up pretty close to 30 degrees and it feeds smoother than I could have imagined for such a small change.

FWIW: My 'smith just fit a new safety to my existing sear. Since the safety was new and expensive, he said he took some material off the sear, leaving some on the safety so it could be fit to a new sear in the future.

Did you call Caldwell and try to sort out the cable / phone issue? I see there are a few phones that are not supported - is yours on the list? These are the things I was interested in hearing about before making a purchase. The Caldwell has a great set of features, if it works right and is compatible with your phone.

Thanks Absocold. I did chase it with a semi-coarse wheel and then a few different grits of sand paper. It's pretty smooth and shiny. I need to hit it again with the grinder to correct the blend so I didn't go crazy with the polishing (or take a pic, it's an embarrassing looking job at this point). I want to figure a way to mount the grinder (dremel or whatever) and set the barrel up at a fixed angle but so that I can roll it and blend the sides a little better. But holy cow, I can't believe the difference while shooting! It cycles so much faster and smoother. Just a small change made such a big difference. My confidence in the gun cycling has gone up like 1000%. Maybe I'll go ahead and order the stones for the trigger and hammer, after all...

Well, I gave it a shot. Not really the right tool or setup for the job, but the rounds are exiting the magazine as smooth as silk. Of course, now I can see where else things are tight during chambering (probably could use a breech face stoning and a chamber reaming), but dry it's loading OK. I don't plan on touching anything else unless it gives me problems live. Thanks for the help

Thank you - I have come to the same conclusion. I'm thinking I might give it a shot, though wondering if I can find a way to do it on my drill press (what tool to cut with). I have a Delta-Rockwell press from the 1940's that can be used for minor milling work (thick, solid spindle) with a couple of 2-axis vices to use. Maybe that's over-complicating things though... I watched an older video of a Wilson gunsmith adjusting the barrel throat with a rotary tool, although followed up with a scraper and knowingly using the right grit and combination of tools which I probably don't have. I spent a good part of yesterday learning about barrel and link fitting, how the feed ramp is supposed to work, etc. I think everything is fine, although if I were building this gun I would have left a little more material on the ramp for 9mm. I didn't want to start removing material until I understood the link was fit right and the barrel is where it's supposed to be, etc. The only thing I can't find is the difference between a 9mm and a .45 - how the feed ramp should work, what the difference is in feed ramp angles and barrel/frame interface points, etc. On a 45, it seems like every round feeds off the frame feed ramp, and the barrel throat is really just a clearance/relief to get material out of the way of the cartridge. With my 9mm, the rounds may not even touch the frame feed ramp and the barrel throat becomes the critical feature in chambering the cartridge. I'm assuming this is correct since ramped barrels are made for most calibers but not really used for the 45. The cartridges are feeding very parallel, and if they do nose down, for some reason, the frame feed ramp takes care of it. That is pretty rare though, in my experience with Tripp mags (and with checking and adjusting feed lips as necessary on others).

Thanks MSG73, It happens with all of my Tripp mags, plus 2 Checkmate mags and one Mec-Gar mag (every mag I own). I have 5 Tripp mags and they all look the same (the top round looks the same). The bullet already clears the frame feed ramp so I don't think the mags need to be any higher. I think the steepness of the barrel throat is the problem though. If I tip the barrel down a couple of degrees the rounds seem to chamber OK. I don't want to mess with the mags since they all work fine in my Sig (primary gun) and all do the same thing. Odds are it's a component in the gun as opposed to 8 different magazines.

I am curious about that too. The barrel is linked to the frame in the pics and I am holding it back. I'm having a tough time finding info about 9mm feed ramps. Maybe this frame was made for 45 and they just converted it with a 9mm slide. The bullet doesn't really touch the feed ramp before jamming up against the barrel throat. If I pull the barrel really far forward, the feed ramp does what it's supposed to do but then the barrel doesn't fit right. That being said, if I change the angle of the throat by about 5 degrees the rounds will feed a lot more smoothly. I don't think I'll leave too much of the case unsupported but I want to be sure before I try removing material. The gun is under warranty but I'd have to pay to ship one way and I'm not sure it's worth it if I only have to open the throat a little.

I've got a cheap 1911 that fails to feed about once every 20 rounds. It has a standard (non-ramped) barrel. The nose of the bullet basically jams dead into the barrel throat. It does this while shooting, and also with the slide removed and barrel installed. This tells me it has nothing to do with the breech or extractor. The rounds are not nose-diving; they are feeding straight and against the feed lips. It happens with all mags including Tripp. I've attached a couple of pics. You can clearly see in the second one where the rounds are hitting the barrel throat. It looks to me like the barrel throat is not cut properly. I'd like to learn about what has to happen and whether or not it's something I feel like doing (probably not, but maybe) since the intent was an inexpensive gun. Any good resources? My understanding is: *There's supposed to be 1/32" to 1/16" axial spacing between the end of the feed ramp and beginning of the barrel throat *The cartridge needs some resistance so it stays against the breech and slides under the extractor, so I feel like it shouldn't be too flat or gradual of an angle.* I'm not sure what else, this is the first time I've ever thought about a barrel throat. I've got a Sig that runs like a dream, with a ramped barrel of course. I'm also curious what people think it should cost to have this fixed by a good gunsmith. Thanks, Joe

Thanks guys, I guess that's what I was thinking and just wanted to make sure the Caldwell is working well for everyone. The reviews are decent, not quite as good as Pro Chrono, but then when you read them I think most bad reviews are people who don't read directions or have patience.

The Caldwell is appealing because it has everything in one package. The reviews are decent. I particularly like the App which looks like it will work with an android phone. My memory sucks and I'm bad at writing things down, and the App looks like its setup well (even calculates PF on the spot). I also like that it comes with a tripod, and lights lights since I'll be joining a range with an indoor facility. But I feel like Pro Chrono is better quality for some reason and I have 2 friends with the Pro Chrono. It's more expensive (although good things usually are), and I don't know how I feel about the App or software and having to buy everything separately. Any reason not to get the Caldwell? Does it feel like a solid/quality unit? Any updates or success with Pro Chrono and Android? Thanks, Overthinker

Glad to hear it's starting to work out. Hopefully you'll make it past this and end up loving your gun.

I searched for Youtube videos on Leatham's grip and other pro shooters' grips. It helped tremendously - I couldn't believe how much quicker I was back on target and firing the second shot after making one simple change. Look for Rob Leatham's and/or Brian Enos' grip style, which is what most competition shooters seem to be using these days. The 9mm 1911 is an awesome gun to compete with. You would shoot in Single Stack, and while getting scored "minor" power factor, you gain the advantage of carrying 10 rounds instead of 8. The .45 would allow you 8 rounds of "major" power factor. I shoot a 9mm 1911. It's my first gun but I chose it after trying everything else I could find. CZs are great, 1911s (IMO) are even better due to the longer sight picture and shorter, more direct trigger pull. Plus with a CZ (in Production) you end up having to start with the hammer down and firing the first shot double action. With the 1911 you start cocked and locked. I showed up at a USPSA match after only owning a gun for a couple of weeks. I went to a steel match first which was really helpful. Just take your time, show up early and let them know you are new and the guys will help you out. It is SO much more fun in person than you think it is watching videos. I started this past July or August and am hooked.

I think it's great you brought this up. I haven't got that far yet, but I was thinking about foot steps during upward facing draws and while moving laterally and shooting. When there are fractions of a second separating you from the next shooter, every part counts. I was reading about Max Michel (Sig USPSA shooter) and he talks a lot about shooting on the move, more particularly shooting as he enters a shooting position. I don't recall him talking about particular feet, but he mentions keeping the knees bent and small steps to smooth things out, and trying to divorce the lower part of your body from your torso so you can stay in a shooting position. I'm right handed but have a dominant left foot. To me it seems like it would be more natural shooting from my left foot. It also is more natural for me to ski (snow and water) on my left foot for whatever that's worth. Unfortunately most things I am decent at come natural to me, and when I stop to think about the process I get all jammed up. Trying to work on foot position during upward facing draws seemed to confuse me and slow me down. Without thinking about it I had some pretty good times.

You would remove material from the top. The mag slides up in the gun, and when the top round hits under the slide it pushes the mag down (or the slide stop pushes back on the follower). What holds the mag from falling back out is the top of the notch. I don't know how the mag catch is made - whether or not its case hardened. I think it's a valid concern. If you had an extra mag (one you prefer not to use in a match) you wouldn't be out much starting there, if it didn't work out.

You could try filing material from the notch in the mag, so it sits a little lower in the gun? A new mag catch is an option but will likely require some fitting also (I got a Wilson and an Ed Brown and both had to be filed to let my mags in the gun. Or maybe you can remove some material from the top of the mag catch, if there is enough stock. Just some ideas... I've had to send a new gun back for service and understand the frustration.

I've got extended slide stops on my guns. One of them doesn't fit in the holster and I was wondering if anyone has found a way to form Kydex in small areas like this. I'm thinking it can be heated but would like to learn from people who have tried it before. I prefer to save cutting as a last resort. Thanks.