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Thanks for the input. What made you choose 115 over 124/125gr. What has your experience been with the pistol overall?

Are there any links that anyone knows of either on this forum or another with specific data for loads of the above-mentioned recommend powders? Since we are loading these kind of hot I don't think I'm going to find them in the traditional Lyman hand-load book....

I appreciate all the input you guys are sending. Seeing that 4756 is no longer made has there been a replacement powder with the same characteristics put in its place?

Hello. I soon should be the second owner of a Brazos Custom SC 5" bbl.38 Super open pistol. It is a traditional Brazos setup, 4 popple holes and his modified Tru bor comp. I did contact Brazos and they did e mail me the standard info loadings of vvn105 and 4756 powders. VV is not always easy to obtain. My question is has anybody experimented with other types of powder that proved to be successful in this model or similar set up open gun. Fwiw I have a lot of CFE and would love to find even a practice load to use with that. Thanks in advance.

I do not use any case lube. I don't know if the used dryer sheets used still had some of their coating on it that comes out of the box. I typically use corn cob media and will put in some Dillon rapid polish. Again don't know if the rapid polish also contributed to my issue when it got very hot out. I see people with very shiny brass. I have been reloading for quite some time and have resigned myself to just using corn cob but cases never really get all that shiny and smooth with my process.

What polish do you use? I use coated bullets so not sure if that will work for me. I guess with rounded profile bullets or even flat point there's no risk in any primers getting set off?

14 degrees F. this morning..... Got a lookout for an opportunity to try to locate in Sarasota Florida area asap, only 1 hour and 20 minutes from Frostproof and Universal Shooting Academy. I guess I would be looking to use a brass dryer until then, at least for the winter LOL

I appreciate the feedback. Is there a good way of drying the brass?that's one reason why I haven't used the wet tumble method

Hello. Perhaps someone could give me good insight to a good tumbling technique for pistol caliber brass. My current method is using corn cob media with Dillon rapid polish and then I would put some used dryer sheets in the tumblr to remove excess dust. I had a few episodes in the summer where when my magazines on my belt would be hot from sun beating on them some type of residue prevented proper feeding as it became sticky on the cases. Not dramatic but just enough to keep everything everything from rolling smooth in the magazines. I don't know if this was due to the polishing compound or something left from the dryer sheets. Any different materials or techniques that have been proven successful is welcomed to hear,thank you.

How about getting a brass Seattle Slug and cutting it down so it is flush with the magwell opening. Tungsten guide rod for the front end. If you found a Glock 34 or at least a top-end that would help reduce recoil and add some weight. Lighter loads with to the longer barrel to make same PF as the 17 doesn't hurt either.

With my carry optic Glock I can go back 35-40 yards and keep them in the headbox freestyle slow fire w/o much effort. Once I put paper in front of the lens I can eventually clarity of the dot on target but group is low and poor. I dont know if I should be reading this that I am not having a true target focus.

I appreciate the advice gentlemen,thank you

Thanks. Once I get it in my hands I'll be able to start finding a method.,That makes good sense. I'm trying to start with good habits so I don't have to untrain myself later of bad ones.

Has anyone found any useful repeatable reference such as something on a C More itself that helps draw your visual attention to the dot as the gun gets leveled to fire coming into position?

This has happened to me with an arched on my 1911 but not with wedged on my 2011. Not sure if it has to also do something with the grip design/diameter but if I put an arched on my 2011 I might consider disengaging the grip safety. BTW any recommendations on how to do that process?

So I thought I was using a true target focus and then I tried this trick brought to my attention to test it. I put a piece of paper cut-out in front of the Burris fastfire I have all my carry optic. If I'm able to have a target focus I can superimpose the dot on it without having an obstruction of the target. If I'm focusing on the dot I can barely see the target at all which is what the case most of the time. So now during dry fire I'm trying to put my visual focus on the target by using this method. I can imagine what it's going to do if I go back to iron sights on long/tight shots LOL

Hello, I'm new to open coming from limited and I have a used Brazos Custom with C-more on its way to me soon. I have played with carry optics a little and have come across an occuring theme...trying to finding the dot quickly. This isn't an issue with the draw but more coming into an akward position or deep/tight lean. With irons my front sight is always in my peripheral to guide me. Any tips,guidance or exercises to put me on a good path in is greatly appreciated, thanks.

Thanks for the response. And that made 182 PF? Do you know how much freebore there was before the projectile touched the lands in the rifling? 168pf or so for today's major would be easier to obtain but sounds like everything has to be just right or there could be real problems. As I mentioned before Clays is such a soft shooting powder and makes you want to chase after it for higher power factors but consequences can be pretty bad if you get it wrong.

Do you remember what the load data was(grains,o.a.length etc.) and where you using lead or jacketed bullets. I know some have done it but has made me concerned. Biggest problem I've had when pushing the top end of Clay's is gas flow around the primer,pitting the breech face. I'd be interested in hearing what you had come up with however,thanks.

Amen! Yes it can be done but it's pushing the envelope of what's practical and realistically safe. I've seen enough instances with separated head casings in 9major. That tells something right there.

Above meant to read Dawson "wedge" profile ( damn voice command,lol)

I have the Dawson which profile on my STI plastic grip that has been slightly reduced. I have arched on all my other 1911 frames. Still trying to decide which of the two I like best. Interesting the revamped Army 1911A1 decided on an arched mainspring housing and original short trigger as it fit the average hand best and had the best results with experienced and newly trained soldiers.

I see. Everybody's body mechanics and shapes are different. Good thing we have choices for different needs, thanks for the response.

Why do you think that is?

Something you may have already thought of but just want to make sure. If you are using it for USPSA you will be limited to minor pf shooting with a 9mm. An STI is best suited for limited division in which case a .40 maybe better for you so you have the option of shooting major pf and can always download pf for minor if you desire. I have seen a couple of really good deals on STI Edges in this forums classifieds recently,maybe check them out. They have been .40 caliber