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crg

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About crg

  • Birthday November 21

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Real Name
    Corey Gamache

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Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. I have an 11.5 pound spring with factory firing pin and spring and haven't had any light strikes in about 1000 rds with S&B primers but it's a brand new spring so I may be dancing with fate.
  2. Thanks for detailing your whole process here. I'm new to 2011s but planning to purchase a Prodigy soon to tinker with so this will be a valuable reference.
  3. This is purely anecdotal, but I have two Shadow 2s purchased about two years apart (a pre-OR and OR model) and the trigger pull on the newer one is much, much worse than the old one was out of the box. Even after a few thousand rounds the DA pull was very heavy and gritty. I recently stripped it bare and polished all the internals per the sticky thread on this forum, and while doing so noticed the quality of the machining of the internals is much worse than my old gun. The trigger bar in particular is very rough with significant tooling marks on many of the contact surfaces including the two faces that contact the disconnector during the DA trigger pull. I don't have a gauge, but qualitatively I can say the polishing significantly reduced the pull weight and probably more importantly smoothed the pull dramatically. If you don't want to go too overboard you can probably achieve a pretty big improvement in DA just by polishing the surfaces on the disconnector and trigger bar carefully where the two parts contact. Combine that with a lighter main spring and you may be satisfied.
  4. crg

    Shadow 2 Compact

    Isn't this more of a USPSA issue than a problem with the gun? USPSA requires the hammer to be fully down which requires shooters to keep the trigger depressed through the entire motion of lowering the hammer, rendering the half cock completely useless. It's hard to blame the half cock for ADs when the rules require it to be defeated.
  5. I did a spare set of factory grips with 60/90. My first time doing it so the result isn't pretty but feels great. It added a good amount of thickness to the grips, if anyone wants to know how much specifically I can measure them with a caliper.
  6. I just bought a spare set of factory grips to attempt this. I want to leave them flat but try to build up the thickness a little more. I'm thinking of just applying an extra layer or two of epoxy and allowing it to cure before doing the epoxy+silicon carbide layer unless anyone knows a better way.
  7. Are you using the factory recoil spring? I fought with muzzle dip using my shadow 2 for a while and tried to remedy it with a better grip as that's what people seemed to recommend. I definitely improved a lot but I couldn't eliminate the dip without using a very awkward and difficult to replicate grip. Finally I bought a recoil spring tuner pack from CGW and simply swapping to an 11 or 12 lb spring completely solved the problem without needing to use an awkward grip. Considering how cheap the springs are I suggest you give it a try and worst case you're only out $30. One more tip, if your phone can take slow motion video then try that and compare it with video of a gun you know is well tuned like Charlie Perez's below. This will give you a rough idea if your gun is cycling way too fast or slow. Also make sure the gun isn't moving in your hands. Liquid chalk and/or aggressive grips can help with that.
  8. I like oak hill a lot, very friendly people. They just cleared out some huge pistol bays over the winter so they're going to have some big stages this year. I'm a member there and try to go about once a week to practice.
  9. I usually shoot the USPSA matches at Oak Hill gun club and Howell.
  10. Welcome, hope to see you at a match here in MI.
  11. Not to further muddy the waters but someone on another site commented this about his base model TS2: "Yeah it’s the SAO ts2 version. Interestingly when I had the grips off I noticed the frame is labeled shadow 2." Do you have a shadow 2 holster you could try?
  12. Thanks, this is really helpful. I'll give it a try with skateboard tape first and see how it goes. Thanks I'll take a look at those.
  13. I have a set of brass Lok grips with black cerakote. They have pretty aggressive texturing but I really like the grip of skateboard tape/silicon carbide and adding a tiny bit more width wouldn't hurt. I don't think tape will adhere well to the texture/shape but has anyone tried doing a silicon carbide job on cerakoted grips? Any recommendations for what epoxy would work? Another option could be going with the smooth brass grips from Lok without cerakote. I think I may be able to get skateboard tape to adhere on those but if I'm buying another set of grips I'd prefer to go with aluminum which seem to only be offered with the aggressive texture. Also it will probably still be a nightmare getting the tape to form to a surface with so many non-right angles so silicon carbide still seems like the easier option.
  14. I've been waiting to post because I don't compete through the winter, but the first match of the season was yesterday so I guess it's about time for an update. For this season I'm shooting in carry optics so a few changes to the gun were in order. I'd post a picture but I'm sure we've all seen a thousand Shadow 2s with SROs. I also made a few minor adjustments to the gun: some brass grips, an extended safety, and a lighter recoil spring. I say minor but the recoil spring was actually a huge change to how the gun shoots that I wish I'd done a lot earlier. There's probably something to be said for how much my grip has improved from trying to deal with the the gun's behavior with factory springs, but the 30 second spring swap immediately cut my splits significantly (and gave me a ton more confidence) by eliminating the muzzle dip I've been fighting with. The optic is also something I wish I'd done earlier. I grew up playing shooting games so the red dot immediately felt much more familiar to me than irons. I made the changes to the gun at the end of last season so I had a few months of dryfire and occasional live fire practice through the winter to get up to speed. Despite that, I completely botched the first few stages of the match yesterday by forgetting my plans the second the timer went off. About halfway through the day I remembered the importance of visualization and started to pull things back together. Unfortunately this was about the same time I started having issues with my magazines failing to drop out of the gun, costing me a bunch of time. The first few stages didn't have reloads so I unfortunately I didn't notice it earlier. I took a look at them after the match and they're pretty beat up so I'll have to do something about that before the next match. The last stage of the day thankfully didn't have a reload so I managed to pull things together enough to achieve my best stage performance to date: With the first match of the year out of the way, it's time to set some goals for the season. Unfortunately this year is going to be extremely busy for me as I'm quickly approaching the end of my PhD so although I fully intend to give it my best effort I want to be somewhat realistic. That said, for 2023 I'm aiming to become a consistent strong B shooter. I don't know whether I'll be able to shoot enough classifiers to actually get classified in carry optics (one of the two clubs I shoot at doesn't usually do classifiers so at best I'll be shooting one a month) so I'll be happy if I can consistently place above most of the Bs in matches and all of the Cs. This might not seem very ambitious but my consistency right now is atrocious. My best classification currently is a D in limited, so although I've managed a few outlier stage performances those have very much been the exception and not the rule. If I get there sooner than I think then I'll reevalute, but for the time being I think that's a challenging but realistic goal for the season given how much time I expect to have. My next match is about a month from now. In the meantime I bought some new main springs for the gun because I can't help but mess with things so testing out those and dealing with my magazine problems will keep me busy.
  15. I have the brass palm swell gridlok grips and G10 palm swell bogies. I think a fresh set of bogies is more aggressive than the brass (or probably aluminum) grips, but they wear faster with use. My bogies have a season of shooting and dryfire on them and they feel similar to the brass grips now. For the shadow 2 I like the balance of the brass grips but in my experience there isn't much difference friction-wise between them and G10. There's some more discussion in this thread:
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