leath4m

JB weld and Silicon carbide mate. StraightUp-OG has a great "How to do" on here.

Any thoughts? My friend at the club yesterday was having trouble with his Match Master fail to extract. We took the top off and checked the extracter tension. It seemed good, would hold a round in place even with some good shaking of the slide. It leaves the fired round in the chamber and locks up when it tries to strip the next round. And is happening every few rounds.

I shot for a few weeks with a target patch on the left lense of my shooting glasses, then progressed to no lense but found I could blink the double image out when needed, same as suggested above. Now I'm fine, it was like eye exercise.

I've found it to be nice. Gun comes out real easy. You just loose the option of adjustment. But the sound of that click as you holster is worth it.

I use a DAA Racemaster with the new magnetic trigger block. It is secure and comfy. The locking lever is in a great position for the strange positions you find yourself in. I'm happy with mine since moving from another well known brand.

Up to you really, we are all different. I'm using a 10. But there are plenty of others on here with more experience.

The top level pros muscle their gun a lot more. A post ignition flinch can be perceived as a bad movement. A pre ignition flinch in reality is the bad one. Keep watching your front post, in dry and live fire. It will happen.

All done, thanks heaps fellas. It was pretty straight forward. Got som loctite on that little screw and some retaining compound on the bottom of both flat surfaces .

Thanks guys.

Sorry for the late reply, I'm at work. I agree get Brian's book and Bens. I also agree with the whole slowing down thing and staying at one speed the rest of your life. And this is just my opinion. I work on the slow down speed up deal. Get yourself a range diary, work on Bens live fire drills, he gives you the times for GM.Now, say your a 9.00 El Pres. That's comfy for you and your gettin your hits. While training this drill do 5-6 FLAT OUT. Don't worry about misses, get used to how it feels. Then go back to your normal speed. Train to failure always, then bring yourself back. Write it all down, see your splits improve, your draw, and transition times. You will get used to going faster, you'll teach yourself to see more at speed (shot calling) watch that front sight, have it clear and crisp. Once you can go faster with two accurate shots start using a target focus for close in shots. Experiment with different things. Read the crap otta this forum. And I reckon slow accurate group shooting is a must for every level.

Ok thanks mate, I thought there would be. Put a bit of loctite on that screw you reckon?

Ok, sounds like trigger control to me, or maybe a flinch. Concentrate on your front post in slow fire strings. Learn to watch what is happening there, the front sight will help you fault find. Slow deliberate group shooting will help as well.

Are your C's and D's grouping roughly in the same spot? Like low and left, high and right?

Need help, my rear sight has come loose on my Sti edge. It's loose in the dove tail and moves with finger pressure. Can I unscrew the elevation to get at the problem? Is their a retaining screw underneath that?

Thanks guys, sounds like I'm close then. I'll keep at it.

I consciously always put my finger along side the frame when not actively engaging targets. Establish a "memory" point for your trigger finger. And tell yourself to ALWAYS use that point. Use this when you pull it out of your pistol case, when cleaning, disassembling, dry fire practice, etc. every time your hand wraps around that grip. Except for that last 2-3" in your draw stroke. Then it's game on. Good luck.

Can you effectively remove all of the take up in a Sti trigger? I have installed a new Long Flat Sti gunsmith blank trigger and on my first attempt I bent the little flap at the front of the trigger bow out. But it was too much, the sear would disengage at half notch. And my grip safety wouldn't work. The trigger pull it's self felt great, but not safe. So I bent the flap back in a little. Now the gun is safe but I still have perhaps 2mm travel in pre travel. Is it possible to have zero take up/ pre travel and a safe gun or not?

Automatic transmission fluid with slide glide mix

It doesn't work for me and we don't teach it at our club. But it does work for some (obviously ).If you have your weak hand really "cammed" towards the ground you can't get that finger up onto the trigger gaurd. That for me, works better with recoil control.

No, I'm sorry. I meant with the trapping mag issue with squeezing too hard. The JB weld seems to stiffen the STI grip up

Yeah, but for the price of the call I could buy all the oil/ lube I'll ever need

I would mate but I'm in Australia, plus I'll work something out. Thanks

Hi mate, I realize you have a PT grip coming, but have you ever thought of applying JB weld and some course media to your STI grip? A friend at our local club has this set up on his Edge. It feels great. And if your worried about the thickness you could sand off the existing checkering before you start. Enjoy your thread! Sat down yesterday and read the whole thing

Thanks everyone for the feed back.