jriggs

Booooooo! Just say no to mag capacity limits. ^^ Yeah, what Jesse said!!!!

so far all I've done is roll the pistol over....cup my hand over the slide as I pinch it just in front of the ejection port with my thumb and pointer finger...then I rack it back just enough to kick the round into my hand...and then I move my thumb/pointer back to the rear of the slide and open it up for the RO. it takes a fraction of a second, the barrel is always downrange and nobody is bending over picking up my shit. ROs have enough work to do...don't need them cleaning up after me too.

so if it's a start or staged shotgun loaded we're fine with the normal 9 in the gun (8 tube/1 chamber) but if it's a staged start with an empty chamber then we can only have 8 in the tube total? am I understanding that correct?

ok I might snag some Winchester primers then too...I just checked and the place I snag them from has 3400 of the 1K boxes in stock...so I think I can get a few without any issues

what shotgun capacity rule????

happy it worked out and you're finally in a good mood when everything is correct...those triggers are sweeeet!

I doubt it... It's already very large compared to most others on the market. It's not a big deal...a few basic tools and 30 minutes and you'll be good to go

Oh I see. We'll I'm already running the apex FSS kit along with their RAM. And the trigger is perfect as is.... So as long as everything continues to work well and I don't get any misfires I'll probably leave them alone.

I you have light striker springs in it then you should try to use Federal Primers. They have the softest priming cup and most sensitive priming compound and they are pretty much a must in you want a 2 to 2.5lb trigger on a Glock or M&P. The next choice would be Winchester. Unless you are running full power striker Springs you should avoid CCI. Striker spring is still original S&W stuff. Do guys actually change out striker springs in M&P pistols??? What's the benefit of that?

M&P pro

No that's good advice Patrick and I'm greatful. Don't care as much about looks... Just looking for every possible bit of performance I can squeak out the pistol. If you're saying your non lightened glock shoots smoother then that's the sort of info I'm looking for.

I go back and forth about lightening the slide.... Theoretically it should lessen the recoil but i wish I had 2 side by side that I could shoot, one lightened and one normal.

Howard didn't set them as flashers...Howard set the backers to make the targets easier to spot. I'm pretty sure he knows the difference between a backer and a flasher

Did they stop making clays powder?

Awesome!!!!!

That's what I figured...marketing

what's with the different colors???

sounds like a plan.... Jeff, would the 147 bayou bullet work well with titegroup? and are you talking about the 9mm hi tek supercoat 147 FP bullets? just googled them and want to make sure i'm looking at the correct one.

would the 12# or 13# spring still be the right choice after I lighten up the slide. I know apples to apples...when the slides are lightened guys generally run a lighter spring to help slow the slide down since it ends up cycling faster.

so I was hoping I might get some opinions on some really sweet soft shooting load data for a start point. I'm shooting an M&P pro in 3 gun and it will always be used for that purpose. I'm using Winchester 115 factory ammo right cause I have not had time to get my Dillon running 9mm. I ordered all the parts to convertmy 550 to run 9mm...so I need some help. the pistol already has an Apex trigger, a tungsten guide rod, ISMI 15# spring and an SSS limited brass magwell. pistol shoots great, just want it smoother and softer I'm sending off the slide to be lightened up...and my plan is to drop the spring rate a bit and work a 9mm load down in power that will cycle the pistol reliably but still have enough power to drop the big pepper poppers that we see at comps. sooooo....anyone out there have a de-fatted M&P with really light loads that still knocks down steel without any issues and cycles all the time???? if so...what's your GO TO load. need bullet and powder info.....any suggestions would be great thanks in advance, Riggs

I have some 15" 3/8 ar500 targets at 300 yards and while the 5.56 doesn't move em much...they make a nice "DING" when hit but if you want to move em...you gotta hit em with something harder!

as long as you had someone with binos watching I'd say 500 yards no problem..but having someone watching with binos can still offer up problems I would think...maybe like watching the wrong target??? I shot some of the Spectre Flash Gongs down in NC and they were easy to see...impossible to miss. you can even see them pop up in the video from my iphone..and they were at 300 yards I think. awesome targets!

I really liked those backers...aside from not being able to get into a good position on the barricade and breaking shots all over the place...I could see all the targets perfectly and went 1 for 1 on the offhand and roof targets.

yeah I'm gonna hang some clays at 20 yards and see which level of brightness works best.

Those hanging clays were challenging sometimes....you'd shoot them perfectly in the middle on the first shot and you couldn't see the hole...so we just kept shooting at them until they broke. It happened to me and at least 2 other guys in my squad a few times. Stage 6 I shot the first clay on the 1st shot...shot it 5 more times till I saw it break and then went 1 for 1 on the other three clays. Think next time I'll turn down the brightness on my reticle, I think that'll fix the problem.